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Showing 1 to 8 of 800 posts


  • 14.05.2016- by Moon News
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PLAY SPECIFIC, AS SPECIFIC IS THE GAME The other day I did a short, one-hour Moon Board session. A few people were surprised that I spent the whole session 'just' on the Board. 'Guys,' I said, 'this is about going to the root. There's no question.' I realized once again that many people are totally confused about how to train for specific goals or at least how to be relatively good on their weekend visits to the crag. Most will agree that to progress in something with as many variables as climbing you must train specific. It is a complex subject and you can't just to decide to do it. First you have to understand what you actually need to do. You must be clever, creative and ready to face your physical and mental weakneses. This ain`t easy. I don´t do competitions any more so I am not interested in modern parkour bouldering; I don`t even need stylish volumes, dynos, mantels and so on. I enjoy climbing all that stuff for fun, especially in good company, but when I am trying Read More...

Stretching for Climbing Katja Vidmar

  • 10.05.2016- by Moon News
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STRETCHING FOR CLIMBING I decided to write a little article about stretching. I personally do it just because it makes me feel good and I also don’t like to feel stiff when climbing. It is maybe a small part of training but for me it’s pretty important. It’s a good prevention from injuries, it improves my posture, my climbing technique and movement, I have more possibilities when figuring out my beta or I can just save some power by using some high feet or footholds that are far apart. Being flexible has so many benefits and I think every climber should do it. Here are some of my favourite exercises. I would recommend that you do it to the point that is not too uncomfortable for you so you can stay at least 30sec in certain position. If it’s still too hard, try to hold it only for a few seconds and repeat 5-8 times. Don’t give up if you feel you’re not getting anywhere on your first day. It takes some time and you’ll be surprised how things get better if you do it rRead More...

Training with Ben

  • 06.05.2016- by Moon News
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After a remarkable career including the World's first 9a "Hubble", last year, 25 years after climbing his first 9a, Ben Moon climbed his 2nd 9a "Rainshadow". This film by boreal gives an insight into Ben's training and his goals for 2016 and beyond     Read More...

An almost perfect weekend, Kristof Rauch

  • 29.04.2016- by Moon News
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[gallery ids="18133,18134,18135,18136,18137,18138,18139,18140,18141,18142,18143"] At the easter holidays I had one of the best weekends ever. At the moment I live about one and a half hour away from the beautiful Maltatal, so it was just logical for me to spend my holidays at “home” and go bouldering in Maltatal. On Friday I warmed up a little bit on some easier problems, then started the day by reclimbing the standing start to “Emotional Landscapes” (8C), the stand is about 8A+. I also checked out the lower moves a little bit but it got too warm quite early and I also had another goal in my mind. I wanted to try “Bügeleisen” (8B+) but I had to wait for the sun to go down. So I decided to try some other problems till the conditions get better. A few friends of mine tried a nice 7C called “Soft Skills”, after some beta from Michl I was able to flash it. After that, it got too warm to even climb easier problems, at least for me. So I went down to the “BügeleiRead More...

Kajsa Rosén, One Of A Few | At The Pinnacle Of Climbing Achievement

  • 29.04.2016- by Moon News
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Kajsa Rosén, Our #MoonTeam legend from Sweden , talks about sending 8c on-sight T-1 Full Equip in Oliana, Spain. She is one of a select few who will ever achieved this grade, with the world's first being climbed in 2004.     Epic tv made this short film about her exploits.     Read More...

Doing my ticks by Bernard Fielder

  • 01.02.2016- by Moon News
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Last year I continued to play my favourite game. I was running around in the woods searching for virgin lines. I was spending my money on rental cars and flight tickets, to get my hands on golden rock. My daydreams were dedicated to certain structures on certain rocks, which I used to call "Projekts“ at certain times. At other times it was quite tricky for me to tell the gym and my living room apart. To make a 365 day story short I will drop some names and numbers conscious of all the adventures, stories, peoples and moments I fade out by choosing this method.   During the Wintertime I visited the beautiful Areas around Finale and Varrazze two times, but couldn`t sent big numbers. In my Home area „Niemandsland“ in lower Austria I was lucky to climb two hard projects of mine: „Algorythmus“ maybe 8c+ first ascent It`s a proud prow and an extention to „Glasperlenspiel“.  After the Rest in the middle climb direktly on the steep and bouldery prow. Read More...

The purple slopey dynamic boulder by Kajsa Rosen

  • 25.01.2016- by Moon News
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Yep, you heard me. This blog is going to be about the purple slopey, dynamic boulder. Purple slopy dynamical problem

You may think; why is she dedicating a whole blog to a purple slopey, dynamic boulder? An indoor boulder that is probably going to be removed within the next month? Why not a spectacular boulder located in the forest of Fontainebleau? If you're having this thought, I definintly get your point, and I couldn't agree with you more. But the case is; I'm living in Sweden. Currently it's minus 20 degrees outside, and last time I checked, I'm not a ”minus grade boulderer”. So as long as it's not school holiday, this is what I haRead More...

The Big Island by Michiel Nieuwenhuijsen

  • 08.01.2016- by Moon News
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[gallery link="file" ids="18062,18063,18064"] The first time I tried the Island was in January 2013. What a beast! I could desperately make (most of) the single moves, but not the transitions from one body position to the next. Nevertheless I was intrigued by this problem, the most brutal and perfect compression climbing I've ever encountered. At this time I had never climbed anything near the level of difficulty of the Island. It weights in as a hard 8b+, and the full line ‘the Big Island’ is 8c. I knew I had to get a lot stronger to make a chance at climbing this problem, but I also knew that it would be a huge motivation for the upcoming years. Over the next couple of years I gradually started to train more and with that I became a better and stronger climber. In that period I visited the Island every now and then, and almost every time I made some progression. I think it was in the winter of 2014/2015 that I had the feeling of making an actual chance of climbing this problemRead More...

Showing 1 to 8 of 800 posts