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Andrea Zanone Bouldering, Routes and Comps Update
During the last few months I did the last projects I had in mind! Before the cold season started, in fact I decided to do a short trip to the sea to spend the last days of holiday with friends and to do sport climbing before we started again the competition period.
Me and my brother and other friends left to go Liguria even if the weather conditions were not very favorable for climbing (20 degrees) but we managed to find a crag completely in the shade and quite windy so we spent two days there. The crag is nice, but unfortunately a lot of routes are quite chipped. I immediately decided to try a short and intense 8a called Elephant Man, I wanted to try it flash, and I got some advice from a friend who had already tried it, I then climbed very well the first part but I fell at the last hard move. I did it second go!
Next day I decided to try an 8a/+ called Stone at the same crag. It looked pretty nice, being very long and steep, and there is also a not easy slab to arrive at the chain. In the second go I did it. I was happy but in my opinion is a little bit easy than 8a/+. I think the 8a is appropriate.
The last day of the holiday and I felt pretty tired so I decided to rest and climbed only on very easy routes and spend half a day under the sun on the beach to relax my body!
Above: Andrea competing in the Italian Bouldering Championships in Cuneo
I was still motivated to come back to home because near my house I had a very nice project, completely natural. This crag is a little cube of rock immersed in a little wood, but really nice. The route that I wanted to try is called Marchand de Reves 8a + in the Gressoney Valley. The route is composed of; in the first part there is a strange boulder, you have to do two dynamic moves on crimps to arrive in the first big hold. The rest of the route becomes more technical and fingery until you arrive in the crux; you have to do the last dynamic move to take a bad pinch and then get to the last rest where the route is pretty much over. To climb the route it took me 4 attempts, spread over two days, I had a great fun!
After these routes, the Boulder Italian Cup again started!
The first comp was in Cuneo, I wasn’t ready for the comp because until then I basically just climbed with rope but I was motivated to do that competition, during the semifinals I flashed two boulders and I arrived 7th, I was the first excluded from the finals…
The second comp was in Brescia, I was in better shape but the boulders were really strange, I did the Bonus of three boulders and I flashed the third one, I arrived 9th, not bad!
Another competition that I was really motivated to do was Mondovi, it is maybe the best competition in Italy, there was 310 climber, the boulders were nice and everything was beautiful. After three hours of climbing, the judge called the name of the finalists, I was one of them! I flashed the finals and I arrived 3rd, because I had less boulder in qualification than other climbers, I enjoyed it very much! And after the comp I attended the party!
Meanwhile the Boulder’s season is started, I went to Chironico with Niccolò Ceria and my brother and another friends to climb some boulders! Every time I go to Ticino I am really impressed by the beauty of the place and boulders.
In Chironico I did:
Super Sizeme 7a+ flash
Easy Going 7b
In Aosta Valley I did:
Reve de Gino 7b+ (hard in my opinion)
Drago Malesiano 7a+/b flash
Cuor di Riccardo 7b
La Prua 7a+/b 2nd go
Now I’m waiting to go to Spain For Christmas….VENGAAAAAAA! =)