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Jordan Buys – Peak Bouldering
Some of the things I’ve been up to since I last updated the blog:
After trying Careless Torque one day, the team headed over to Burbage West, there we did Western Eyes, font 7c+. Can’t believe I’ve never done this before, it is great!
Western Eyes Font 7c+. Photo: Mike Hutton
Had a nice day out at Curbar, though the day did have a bad start involving a snapping finger board whilst warming up at Stanage, then isolated rain that just seemed to not want to let me do Careless Torque! I did a quick scan of the ‘rain radar’ on my mobile internet and it showed that Curbar could be dry… Well that’s what I was hoping after traveling all that way.
Anyway, the Bad Landings boulder seemed climbable. Curbar highlights included:
- Huffy’s problem Font 7c+, couple of goes
- Detox font 8a, second ascent
- Le musee imaginaire Font 7b+, flash
Then the snow came, so we headed underground. Checking out Odins Cave under Mam Tor was a winner. Totally bone dry whilst the rest of the north of England became snow bound. Deep in the cave is a really different sort of boulder problem; actually it is just like climbing a Climbing Works cash problem. Which is never like real climbing anyway… The main problem goes at Font 8a and involves knee bars and a lot of cunning. It was so good I did it three times for training. Ah, and it’s aptly named The Dark Room.
I had caught the limestone bug so next decided to check out Anston Stones near Worksop, loved it and had two trips there with Naomi, Adam, Gav the chav, James and Mike. Highlights were:
- Black Hoe Font 8a
- Dark Art Font 8a
- Soul Crusher Font 7c+
- Black Crow Font 7c+
- Bullet Font 7c
- The Phoenix Font 7c
- Ebola Font 7c
- Alpha Font 7b+
- Reservation Font 7b
- Apprentice Prow Font 7b
- Berretta Font 7a+
- Beta Blocker Font 7a
In the latest issue of Climber mag there is a picture of Dave Sutcliffe getting the first ascent of a super steep problem up at Crookrise. I got the chance to go up with him and have a bash at the second ascent. After an hour or so of messing around with my own beta I gave in and followed his method and sent it. It overhangs by 45 degrees, has flared jams, slopey slopers, scary heel hooks and a proper highball top out. It also broke an ankle a few years back. It’s called Sole Fusion, given Font 8a and may be one best problems I have ever climbed. Maybe…
Thanks to Mike Hutton (www.mikehuttonphotography.com) and Dave Sutcliffe for their pictures.