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Anam Cara 8C
Ed – Guntram Jörg – Gu to his friends – talks about his impressive repeat of Anam Cara 8C in September 2011.
After doing all the moves my body felt ready but my mind wasn’t. My wish of linking those moves turned into a dream. A dream of having a moment of success.
Anam Cara challenged my life in so many different aspects. It was not only about strength commitment and mind because it tested my love and significance to climbing. Never could I be sure of winning the fight between the rock and me. It was not even sure that my body would be strong enough to climb at that level.
The day of success.
On this day I didn’t even want to try Anam Cara. My project for the day was an extension to Skiroute4. After some chilling in the sun, I went with my girl Martina and my friends Rudi and Domenique to Anam Cara. While lying under Anam Cara my fingers got quite cold in the shade and I decided to give it a try
Grabbing some of the small holds felt really nice in the shade. I felt stronger than usual. …
Really surprised I fell 3 times at the undercling and I finally recognised that today could be the day. I took all my power and made another go. Like in a dream I woke up setting up for the last move but I went down.
My friend Rudi was screaming “you fucking idiot” and he throw his climbing shoe at my head. I felt relaxed about that situation falling at the last move because that day it was pure fun climbing on this hard boulder. I took around 5 minutes off sitting at the start of Anam Cara because the sun was getting already into the boulder. Rudi protected with his jacket the boulder that I could grab the holds easily without having the sun directly in my face. One more problem was that it was getting hotter but I was so surprised about myself because I was confident and chilled in such a situation. I pulled my shoes on and went for it.
Again there was a little moment of clearness setting up for the last move but that time I had the last hold perfect and I stuck the last slopper. I could hear Rudi saying “Now you have it, don’t fall” Also I recognised that I was breathing really really hard. The move after the crux I had really smeary fingers but all went perfect. At the moment I was holding the last big hold before the little mantle at the top out I wasn’t really sure what to do and I turned around giving Rudi my fist.
While succeeding and topping out Anam Cara I got everything back I invested: the power, the energy, the time and the love. Even more I got back: “Knowledge that much more is possible”