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“No Mystery” (low) in Chironico (FA afte the broken crux-crimp)
“No Mystery” located in Chironico (Swizzy) is a nice littel overhanging shild first climbed by Dave Graham back in time. It has two nice intro-moves that set you up to a big deadpoint-move from a lousy crimp to a good rail. Followed by some very nice top-out moves.
Late last year/beginning this year a crux-crimp broke. I had a quick look and it looked like a great new puzzle to be solved. So after having great fun with another puzzle (climbing “Souvenir” wihout the pocket) i made my way to “No
Back in time (2005) when the left crimp was still there: I was trying the crux of “No Mystery” and was watched by Dave G. himself and Simon W. Pic by Simon.
From the very first moment it was clear that it should still be possible. I tried the move and hit the rail every time but was unable to hold the swing. Its a BIG move for me and I am totally strechted out. For somedbody taller this move must feel pretty easy, but for me it felt really hard, and for somebody way shorter it must feel super HARD! I like that crux-move very much. Especially because it is not all about power, it is a lot about timing, bodyplacing and perfect movement.
Before i left to Hueco early February i came close to stick the cruxmove… well i thought i was close… Coming home from hueco i wanted to check out “No Mystery” again but was still unable to stick the move. So i put “No Mystery” on my chironico-routine: Every day i was down in chrionico i gave “No Mystery” some tries, then hiked down the 50min to the “Fisch-Project” (on which i made great progress) to get fit and ready for “Fisch”-attemps in march/april.
From the very first try i was up there at the rail again, but was unable to hold on… But i kept trying and after some eight visits or so it finally clicked and i stuck the move. At the very moment i was so surprised that i neraly droped. But i put it together and pulled trough the following great topmoves. YEPPAAA!!!
To fix that promblem to a single grade feels pretty impossible to me. If you are tall and a bit lucky you can do that move in flash-mode. If you are not lucky you can try it for weeks, catching the rail every time but not beeing able to control the swing (like me). Despite it’s MY style I went down over days on that move and because i was totally stretched out i had to be super precise. If somebody is really tall the move must be quite easy. If somebody is very short it must be SUPER hard… So for me it feels like one of the harder (short) problems i have climbed. Way harder then the classic “Soucoupe, 8A+/B” for example. For me it felt like a HARD 8B. But the week after my ascent my girlfriend “killed” me in the gym. And as she climbs more in the 7A/B area then in the 8B’s “No Mystery” can’t be an 8the grade, can it?! Conclusion: It should be in between 7A+ and 8B+. Take what you like and have fun
The harder top-out over “Schule des Lebens” remains unclimbed since the. I tried it shortly, but it was just too warm for the razor-crimps.
I will be back next winter!