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In the news and coming events
Text by David Falt
Some significant events have taken place lately. The american wonder girl Sasha Digulian sent her second 9a by repeating Chris Sharma’s Era Vella, 9a in Margalef after six days of work. This is a stunning performance by any standards.
Swedish Matilda Söderlund went to Spain on an virtual onsight rampage earning her headlines in a number of climbing magazines for her three 8b onsights and up on returning the other day she flashed a 8b+.
MOON Climber Martin Keller sent his project “Der Mit den Fels Tanzt” fro witch Martin proposed 8C. Martin spent more that 100 days working the project. We at MOON Climbing are super happy for you Martin and we hope this send will inspire you to try new “impossible” project and turn them around and send them.
In the category of stubborn super achievements we have to mention Catalan female climber Silvia Vidal’s new route, Espiadimonis (6b, A4, IV+ 1500m) on the Serrania Avalancha wall in Chile (Patagonia). Vidal climbed the route alone over the course of thirty-two days in February and March.
Some media is speculating that Adam Ondra is getting closer to do the worlds first 9a onsight. If and when that happens it has to be considered a quantum leap for modern sport climbing.
An other good performance this wet spring in the UK is coming from an other MOON Climber Ed Hamer who just turned 20 celebrated that with sending two 8B boulders. Ed is one of the most promising and low key raising stars on the British climbing scene. Ed climbed for a week with and other under the radar strong man James Noble. James might be unknown to most of the climbing community in the UK and the rest of the world but he is a truly multi talented climber well worth keeping tabs on. He will for sure pull a few very hard climbs off adding to an already impressive tick list.’
Then I just noticed that Dave Graham has done the second repeat of Paint it Black, 8C in RMNP. “A phenomenal roof opened by Daniel Woods! Powerful tension moves, and technical foot sequences, this boulder is a true challenge. I found this rig very powerful and fingery, but after 9 days of working it out, four of which I kept falling on this crazy foot swing, everything seemed to click today. Very majestic!
On the competition scene MOON Climber Chris Webb-Parsons, Katja Widmar and the MOON Climbing Teams new additions James Kassay and Maria Davies Sandbu, have all been active in kick off the years boulder World Cup. The results might not reflect the potential but as with all things related to competing its all about persistence and the results will follow. MOON Climber Katrine Vandet Salling has been more lucky with her results in competitions, bagging gold in both the National and Nordic Championships. Chapeau!
On the agenda for many this coming weekend is Mellobllocco 2012, the great international bouldering meeting which will take place in Val Masino – Val di Mello (SO) from 3 – 6 May 2012. Looks like it can be a crowded event with plus 2500 pre registered climbers!
For you who need to schedule you life around events we want to give you a heads-up on this summers boulder meet in France. Its 19ème edition of “Tout à blocs (TAB)” from the 25th of July to the 29th of July in l’Argentière la Bessée in the hart of Pays des Ecrins. The week before TAB the World Cup in lead is held in Briancon where Ed Hamer among other will compete. That competition is held from the 16th of July to the 21st of july. We at MOON are happy to help out with local beta for any one planning to visit the area.
Until my next update keep it real, fun and challenge your self thats what this sport is all about what ever number, problem or climb that is currently inspiring you.