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4 weeks of my climbing life and Gorge du Tarn

In order of date this is what I have been up to since I did Donnafugata on Torre Trieste. After Donnafugata I was waisted for about 3 or 4 weeks, with no real energy to do any thing real hard plus it was warm. Then La Saume came in to play. Its a new crag at 2300 meters that is in the shade all day. I sent a few 7c and 7c+ up there all mega cool routes and I have worked on a 8a+. Well its a summer crag and this morning I got word that its been snowing 30 cm at 2700 meters in the area of La Saume…. Draws in! Might have to go with my Ice tools to get them back down? The picture below is from La Saume.

 

Gorge du Tarn is back in play! And its all about “ABUS Routes!”

In fact Tarn has never been out of play its just been on the back-burner due to the lack of a dated topo and the huge re-bolting project, but the area has never been closed.

I have a few thoughts on Tarn

First its 12 years since the last topo was published. Climbers not respecting the area is one reason this has kept back publishing a new topo. An other reason is the fact that it needed to be re- bolted. That has now been done. But its not FREE as many climbers seems to think. Its costed 104.000 Euros to re-bolt and a hundreds of man hours to make that happen. Some old areas are not in the new topo, respect that as FFME has most likely not secured agreements with the landowners.

The new topo is in in French, English, German, Italian and Spanish. The pictures are super good and plenty of new stuff to do. Tarn is all about the “Abus” for me! Abus is the local term for the long and committing routes that are plus 60 meters. You climb this routes ground up in one pitch using a “Tarn” specific technique and PLENTY of quick draws.

The grading.

Well this is a sensitive topic… No shit… And its very personal how grades apply to different individuals. In the new topo I noticed that the über popular “Moules frites” has been downgraded to 7c+ from 8a. It was talk last summer of down grading “Premiers choux fleurs” from 8a+ to 8a. I would have disagreed with that! A few other routes have been down graded like “Mosaik man” and that is more like it I think . What I find after trying some of the 8a:ish “Abus” routes is that the routes on “Tenessee” have “survived” any downgrading and quite frankly that is surprising to me. Compare “Premiers choux fleurs” to “Les ails du désir” or to an other 8a “Au temps d’avant” on “De Que fas Aqui” and you are miles apart in terms of difficulty. The two 7b+ on “Tenessee“, “Une cologne derriér les versus” and “Les ails du désir” are both soft and in my opinion more of 7b. But I might be off. The same with “Pyromania” 7c+ its just not consistent with how other routes are graded to keep it at 7c+. When it comes to “Les ails du désir” 8a part of the grade must come from the huge flights you get if you fall off. If that route had 3 or 4 more bolts it would most likely not be much more than a 7c. But this is me speculating. Any way this is semantics and not important only interesting to me and this is my thoughts. I lift my hat and say CHAPEAU to the friendly crew in Gorge du Tarn. Thanks for all the hard work and the amazing climbing you have created. Its truly a unique place where chipping is rare! Keep it that way!

Tick list from August:

Order by Date
Click to Edit Ascent: <b><a href='Search.aspx?SearchType=ASCENTS&CragName=Gorges+Du+Tarn&AscentName=Les+couilles+au+cul&AscentType=0'>Les couilles au cul 7a,7b+,7c</a></b> Click to Repeat Ascent: <b><a href='Search.aspx?SearchType=ASCENTS&CragName=Gorges+Du+Tarn&AscentName=Les+couilles+au+cul&AscentType=0'>Les couilles au cul 7a,7b+,7c</a></b> Click to post on FB wall 12-09-02 7a Les couilles au cul 7a,7b+,7c Gorges Du Tarn / Figues au cul Hard hard if you are short, fell off L1 did L2 onsight. L1 is POLISHED! * 700
Click to Edit Ascent: <b><a href='Search.aspx?SearchType=ASCENTS&CragName=Gorges+Du+Tarn&AscentName=Les+couilles+au+cul&AscentType=0'>Les couilles au cul 7a,7b+,7c</a></b> Click to Repeat Ascent: <b><a href='Search.aspx?SearchType=ASCENTS&CragName=Gorges+Du+Tarn&AscentName=Les+couilles+au+cul&AscentType=0'>Les couilles au cul 7a,7b+,7c</a></b> Click to post on FB wall 12-09-02 7b+ Les couilles au cul 7a,7b+,7c Gorges Du Tarn / Figues au cul Fell on L1 did L2 easy… Strange day *** 995
Click to Edit Ascent: <a href='Search.aspx?SearchType=ASCENTS&CragName=Gorges+Du+Tarn&AscentName=Mick+ta+m%e9re&AscentType=0'>Mick ta mére</a> Click to Repeat Ascent: <a href='Search.aspx?SearchType=ASCENTS&CragName=Gorges+Du+Tarn&AscentName=Mick+ta+m%e9re&AscentType=0'>Mick ta mére</a> Click to post on FB wall 12-09-02 7a Mick ta mére Gorges Du Tarn / Club house Soft one move upside down wonder, but fun! ** 845
Click to Edit Ascent: <a href='Search.aspx?SearchType=ASCENTS&CragName=Gorges+Du+Tarn&AscentName=Le+piratarn&AscentType=0'>*Le piratarn</a> Click to Repeat Ascent: <a href='Search.aspx?SearchType=ASCENTS&CragName=Gorges+Du+Tarn&AscentName=Le+piratarn&AscentType=0'>*Le piratarn</a> Click to post on FB wall 12-09-01 7c *Le piratarn Gorges Du Tarn Poorly/Mainly chipped slabish… traverse! Getting psyched? Not?! Its cool even if its chipped. *** 1045
Click to Edit Ascent: <b><a href='Search.aspx?SearchType=ASCENTS&CragName=Gorges+Du+Tarn&AscentName=Une+colonne+derri%e8re+les+verrous&AscentType=0'>Une colonne derrière les verrous 6c+,7a,7a+,7b,7b+,7c+</a></b> Click to Repeat Ascent: <b><a href='Search.aspx?SearchType=ASCENTS&CragName=Gorges+Du+Tarn&AscentName=Une+colonne+derri%e8re+les+verrous&AscentType=0'>Une colonne derrière les verrous 6c+,7a,7a+,7b,7b+,7c+</a></b> Click to post on FB wall 12-09-01 7b Une colonne derrière les verrous 6c+,7a,7a+,7b,7b+,7c+ Gorges Du Tarn / Tennessee 7b+ in topo but really soft even for 7b I think. Good warmup. *** 945
Click to Edit Ascent: <b><a href='Search.aspx?SearchType=ASCENTS&CragName=Gorges+Du+Tarn&AscentName=Les+a%eeles+du+d%e9sir&AscentType=0'>Les aîles du désir 7b,7b+,7c,8a,8a+</a></b> Click to Repeat Ascent: <b><a href='Search.aspx?SearchType=ASCENTS&CragName=Gorges+Du+Tarn&AscentName=Les+a%eeles+du+d%e9sir&AscentType=0'>Les aîles du désir 7b,7b+,7c,8a,8a+</a></b> Click to post on FB wall 12-09-01 7b+ Les aîles du désir 7b,7b+,7c,8a,8a+ Gorges Du Tarn / Tennessee Soft Cool but soft! *** 995
Click to Edit Ascent: <a href='Search.aspx?SearchType=ASCENTS&CragName=Gorges+Du+Tarn&AscentName=Tarn+is+business&AscentType=0'>Tarn is business</a> Click to Repeat Ascent: <a href='Search.aspx?SearchType=ASCENTS&CragName=Gorges+Du+Tarn&AscentName=Tarn+is+business&AscentType=0'>Tarn is business</a> Click to post on FB wall 12-09-01 6c Tarn is business Gorges Du Tarn / Trésor du zèbre Super! *** 745
Click to Edit Ascent: <b><a href='Search.aspx?SearchType=ASCENTS&CragName=Gorges+Du+Tarn&AscentName=Les+a%eeles+du+d%e9sir&AscentType=0'>Les aîles du désir 7b,7b+,7c,8a,8a+</a></b> Click to Repeat Ascent: <b><a href='Search.aspx?SearchType=ASCENTS&CragName=Gorges+Du+Tarn&AscentName=Les+a%eeles+du+d%e9sir&AscentType=0'>Les aîles du désir 7b,7b+,7c,8a,8a+</a></b> Click to post on FB wall 12-09-01 8a Les aîles du désir 7b,7b+,7c,8a,8a+ Gorges Du Tarn / Tennessee Soft, Second GO This is a low end 8a. In fact I think its more of 7c+ and Pyromania 7c. Big Air thing… part of the grade must be the spaced bolting. Mythic! Happy only had to fly on the first try. Jesus you do fly big! *** 1002
Click to Edit Ascent: <a href='Search.aspx?SearchType=ASCENTS&CragName=Gorges+Du+Tarn&AscentName=Retour+%e0+meilleure+fortune&AscentType=0'>Retour à meilleure fortune</a> Click to Repeat Ascent: <a href='Search.aspx?SearchType=ASCENTS&CragName=Gorges+Du+Tarn&AscentName=Retour+%e0+meilleure+fortune&AscentType=0'>Retour à meilleure fortune</a> Click to post on FB wall 12-08-31 7c Retour à meilleure fortune Gorges Du Tarn 40m 6c+ plus 38m 7c in one looooong pitch. About 25 draws. First 7c onsight! *** 1045
Click to Edit Ascent: <b><a href='Search.aspx?SearchType=ASCENTS&CragName=Gorges+Du+Tarn&AscentName=La+Puerta+del+Sol&AscentType=0'>La Puerta del Sol 6c,7b+,7c</a></b> Click to Repeat Ascent: <b><a href='Search.aspx?SearchType=ASCENTS&CragName=Gorges+Du+Tarn&AscentName=La+Puerta+del+Sol&AscentType=0'>La Puerta del Sol 6c,7b+,7c</a></b> Click to post on FB wall 12-08-31 7b+ La Puerta del Sol 6c,7b+,7c Gorges Du Tarn / De que fas aqui? Super 40m 6c+ in to 20m 7b+ in one go! Super *****! *** 995
Click to Edit Ascent: <a href='Search.aspx?SearchType=ASCENTS&CragName=Gorges+Du+Tarn&AscentName=Fuck+the+curve&AscentType=0'>Fuck the curve</a> Click to Repeat Ascent: <a href='Search.aspx?SearchType=ASCENTS&CragName=Gorges+Du+Tarn&AscentName=Fuck+the+curve&AscentType=0'>Fuck the curve</a> Click to post on FB wall 12-08-31 7a Fuck the curve Gorges Du Tarn / De que fas aqui? Soft super! 42 m *** 845
Click to Edit Ascent: <a href='Search.aspx?SearchType=ASCENTS&CragName=Gorges+Du+Tarn&AscentName=Avatarn&AscentType=0'>Avatarn</a> Click to Repeat Ascent: <a href='Search.aspx?SearchType=ASCENTS&CragName=Gorges+Du+Tarn&AscentName=Avatarn&AscentType=0'>Avatarn</a> Click to post on FB wall 12-08-31 6c+ Avatarn Gorges Du Tarn / De que fas aqui L1 tip top slab. Tried the 7c+ L2 But chipped and not nice. ** 795
Click to Edit Ascent: <a href='Search.aspx?SearchType=ASCENTS&CragName=La+Saume&AscentName=Mystic+reveur&AscentType=0'>Mystic reveur</a> Click to Repeat Ascent: <a href='Search.aspx?SearchType=ASCENTS&CragName=La+Saume&AscentName=Mystic+reveur&AscentType=0'>Mystic reveur</a> Click to post on FB wall 12-08-25 6c+ Mystic reveur La Saume / S2 – 2100m Repeat rep *** 649
Click to Edit Ascent: <a href='Search.aspx?SearchType=ASCENTS&CragName=La+Saume&AscentName=Far+right+new&AscentType=0'>Far right new</a> Click to Repeat Ascent: <a href='Search.aspx?SearchType=ASCENTS&CragName=La+Saume&AscentName=Far+right+new&AscentType=0'>Far right new</a> Click to post on FB wall 12-08-25 6c Far right new La Saume Repeat rep *** 599
Click to Edit Ascent: <a href='Search.aspx?SearchType=ASCENTS&CragName=La+Saume&AscentName=M%2527enfin&AscentType=0'>M'enfin</a> Click to Repeat Ascent: <a href='Search.aspx?SearchType=ASCENTS&CragName=La+Saume&AscentName=M%2527enfin&AscentType=0'>M'enfin</a> Click to post on FB wall 12-08-24 6b M’enfin La Saume Repeat L1, rep *** 499
Click to Edit Ascent: <a href='Search.aspx?SearchType=ASCENTS&CragName=La+Saume&AscentName=Mystic+reveur&AscentType=0'>Mystic reveur</a> Click to Repeat Ascent: <a href='Search.aspx?SearchType=ASCENTS&CragName=La+Saume&AscentName=Mystic+reveur&AscentType=0'>Mystic reveur</a> Click to post on FB wall 12-08-24 6c+ Mystic reveur La Saume / S2 – 2100m Repeat rep *** 649
Click to Edit Ascent: <a href='Search.aspx?SearchType=ASCENTS&CragName=Arsine&AscentName=La+prise+du+dragon&AscentType=0'>La prise du dragon</a> Click to Repeat Ascent: <a href='Search.aspx?SearchType=ASCENTS&CragName=Arsine&AscentName=La+prise+du+dragon&AscentType=0'>La prise du dragon</a> Click to post on FB wall 12-08-21 7c+ La prise du dragon Arsine / 3 Soft, Second GO Cool on granite! Crimp and you are fine. ** 952
Click to Edit Ascent: <a href='Search.aspx?SearchType=ASCENTS&CragName=Arsine&AscentName=Mer+de+nuage&AscentType=0'>Mer de nuage</a> Click to Repeat Ascent: <a href='Search.aspx?SearchType=ASCENTS&CragName=Arsine&AscentName=Mer+de+nuage&AscentType=0'>Mer de nuage</a> Click to post on FB wall 12-08-21 6c+ Mer de nuage Arsine hard start. ** 650
Click to Edit Ascent: <a href='Search.aspx?SearchType=ASCENTS&CragName=La+Saume&AscentName=M%2527enfin&AscentType=0'>M'enfin</a> Click to Repeat Ascent: <a href='Search.aspx?SearchType=ASCENTS&CragName=La+Saume&AscentName=M%2527enfin&AscentType=0'>M'enfin</a> Click to post on FB wall 12-08-18 6b M’enfin La Saume Repeat L1, rep *** 499
Click to Edit Ascent: <a href='Search.aspx?SearchType=ASCENTS&CragName=La+Saume&AscentName=Mystic+reveur&AscentType=0'>Mystic reveur</a> Click to Repeat Ascent: <a href='Search.aspx?SearchType=ASCENTS&CragName=La+Saume&AscentName=Mystic+reveur&AscentType=0'>Mystic reveur</a> Click to post on FB wall 12-08-18 6c+ Mystic reveur La Saume / S2 – 2100m Repeat x 2 *** 649
Click to Edit Ascent: <a href='Search.aspx?SearchType=ASCENTS&CragName=La+Saume&AscentName=M%2527enfin&AscentType=0'>M'enfin</a> Click to Repeat Ascent: <a href='Search.aspx?SearchType=ASCENTS&CragName=La+Saume&AscentName=M%2527enfin&AscentType=0'>M'enfin</a> Click to post on FB wall 12-08-17 6b M’enfin La Saume Repeat L1, rep *** 499
Click to Edit Ascent: <a href='Search.aspx?SearchType=ASCENTS&CragName=La+Saume&AscentName=Mystic+reveur&AscentType=0'>Mystic reveur</a> Click to Repeat Ascent: <a href='Search.aspx?SearchType=ASCENTS&CragName=La+Saume&AscentName=Mystic+reveur&AscentType=0'>Mystic reveur</a> Click to post on FB wall 12-08-17 6c+ Mystic reveur La Saume / S2 – 2100m Repeat x 2 *** 649
Click to Edit Ascent: <a href='Search.aspx?SearchType=ASCENTS&CragName=La+Saume&AscentName=Mystic+reveur&AscentType=0'>Mystic reveur</a> Click to Repeat Ascent: <a href='Search.aspx?SearchType=ASCENTS&CragName=La+Saume&AscentName=Mystic+reveur&AscentType=0'>Mystic reveur</a> Click to post on FB wall 12-08-15 6c+ Mystic reveur La Saume / S2 – 2100m Repeat x 2 *** 649
Click to Edit Ascent: <a href='Search.aspx?SearchType=ASCENTS&CragName=La+Saume&AscentName=No+8&AscentType=0'>No 8</a> Click to Repeat Ascent: <a href='Search.aspx?SearchType=ASCENTS&CragName=La+Saume&AscentName=No+8&AscentType=0'>No 8</a> Click to post on FB wall 12-08-15 7c+ No 8 La Saume / S2 – 2100m Soft, Second GO L1 7a, L2 7b L3 7c+! 50m L2 is hard L3 resi. Cool but sadly some “improved” holds in the first part. Top its thin… *** 952
Click to Edit Ascent: <a href='Search.aspx?SearchType=ASCENTS&CragName=La+Saume&AscentName=M%2527enfin&AscentType=0'>M'enfin</a> Click to Repeat Ascent: <a href='Search.aspx?SearchType=ASCENTS&CragName=La+Saume&AscentName=M%2527enfin&AscentType=0'>M'enfin</a> Click to post on FB wall 12-08-15 6b M’enfin La Saume Repeat L1, rep *** 499
Click to Edit Ascent: <a href='Search.aspx?SearchType=ASCENTS&CragName=La+Saume&AscentName=No+18&AscentType=0'>No 18</a> Click to Repeat Ascent: <a href='Search.aspx?SearchType=ASCENTS&CragName=La+Saume&AscentName=No+18&AscentType=0'>No 18</a> Click to post on FB wall 12-08-14 7b+ No 18 La Saume / S2 – 2100m Hard Nice line! Hard even if its my style. *** 995
Click to Edit Ascent: <a href='Search.aspx?SearchType=ASCENTS&CragName=La+Saume&AscentName=Mystic+reveur&AscentType=0'>Mystic reveur</a> Click to Repeat Ascent: <a href='Search.aspx?SearchType=ASCENTS&CragName=La+Saume&AscentName=Mystic+reveur&AscentType=0'>Mystic reveur</a> Click to post on FB wall 12-08-14 6c+ Mystic reveur La Saume / S2 – 2100m Repeat *** 649
Click to Edit Ascent: <b><a href='Search.aspx?SearchType=ASCENTS&CragName=La+Saume&AscentName=Le+vent+de+l%2527errance&AscentType=0'>Le vent de l'errance 7a,7c+</a></b> Click to Repeat Ascent: <b><a href='Search.aspx?SearchType=ASCENTS&CragName=La+Saume&AscentName=Le+vent+de+l%2527errance&AscentType=0'>Le vent de l'errance 7a,7c+</a></b> Click to post on FB wall 12-08-14 7c+ Le vent de l’errance 7a,7c+ La Saume / S2 – 2100m FA L2 is One of the KING lines 50m! Exposed aret, spaced bolting and tricky to figure out. Not so much of power or stamina… its all technical stuff. ***** 3rd try *** 960
Click to Edit Ascent: <a href='Search.aspx?SearchType=ASCENTS&CragName=La+Saume&AscentName=M%2527enfin&AscentType=0'>M'enfin</a> Click to Repeat Ascent: <a href='Search.aspx?SearchType=ASCENTS&CragName=La+Saume&AscentName=M%2527enfin&AscentType=0'>M'enfin</a> Click to post on FB wall 12-08-12 6b M’enfin La Saume L1 *** 553
Click to Edit Ascent: <a href='Search.aspx?SearchType=ASCENTS&CragName=La+Saume&AscentName=Far+right+new&AscentType=0'>Far right new</a> Click to Repeat Ascent: <a href='Search.aspx?SearchType=ASCENTS&CragName=La+Saume&AscentName=Far+right+new&AscentType=0'>Far right new</a> Click to post on FB wall 12-08-12 6c Far right new La Saume Super addition to a super crag! *** 745
Click to Edit Ascent: <b><a href='Search.aspx?SearchType=ASCENTS&CragName=La+Saume&AscentName=Le+vent+de+l%2527errance&AscentType=0'>Le vent de l'errance 7a,7c+</a></b> Click to Repeat Ascent: <b><a href='Search.aspx?SearchType=ASCENTS&CragName=La+Saume&AscentName=Le+vent+de+l%2527errance&AscentType=0'>Le vent de l'errance 7a,7c+</a></b> Click to post on FB wall 12-08-12 7a Le vent de l’errance 7a,7c+ La Saume / S2 – 2100m Hard Hard L1 *** 700
Click to Edit Ascent: <a href='Search.aspx?SearchType=ASCENTS&CragName=La+Saume&AscentName=Mystic+reveur&AscentType=0'>Mystic reveur</a> Click to Repeat Ascent: <a href='Search.aspx?SearchType=ASCENTS&CragName=La+Saume&AscentName=Mystic+reveur&AscentType=0'>Mystic reveur</a> Click to post on FB wall 12-08-11 6c+ Mystic reveur La Saume / S2 – 2100m Repeat *** 649
Click to Edit Ascent: <a href='Search.aspx?SearchType=ASCENTS&CragName=La+Sume&AscentName=Mystic+reveur&AscentType=0'>Mystic reveur</a> Click to Repeat Ascent: <a href='Search.aspx?SearchType=ASCENTS&CragName=La+Sume&AscentName=Mystic+reveur&AscentType=0'>Mystic reveur</a> Click to post on FB wall 12-08-04 6c+ Mystic reveur La Sume / S2 – 2100m Repeat rep royal! *** 649
Click to Edit Ascent: <a href='Search.aspx?SearchType=ASCENTS&CragName=La+Saume&AscentName=left+of+Drag%e9e+fuca&AscentType=0'>left of Dragée fuca</a> Click to Repeat Ascent: <a href='Search.aspx?SearchType=ASCENTS&CragName=La+Saume&AscentName=left+of+Drag%e9e+fuca&AscentType=0'>left of Dragée fuca</a> Click to post on FB wall 12-08-04 7c left of Dragée fuca La Saume / S2 – 2100m Soft 3rd, might well be 7b+ not sure at all. New route. For me 7c bloc. 7b up to the finish… Unreal! Bouldery finish. *** 900
Click to Edit Ascent: <a href='Search.aspx?SearchType=ASCENTS&CragName=Rue+des+masques&AscentName=Le+chibre&AscentType=0'>Le chibre</a> Click to Repeat Ascent: <a href='Search.aspx?SearchType=ASCENTS&CragName=Rue+des+masques&AscentName=Le+chibre&AscentType=0'>Le chibre</a> Click to post on FB wall 12-08-03 7b Le chibre Rue des masques / Le Canyon Log-book, No score OS burn…. Tooooo ticked up to do! *** 800
Click to Edit Ascent: <a href='Search.aspx?SearchType=ASCENTS&CragName=Rue+des+masques&AscentName=La+teigne&AscentType=0'>La teigne</a> Click to Repeat Ascent: <a href='Search.aspx?SearchType=ASCENTS&CragName=Rue+des+masques&AscentName=La+teigne&AscentType=0'>La teigne</a> Click to post on FB wall 12-08-03 7b La teigne Rue des masques / Le Canyon Repeat, Soft, Second GO rep, soft ** 801
Click to Edit Ascent: <a href='Search.aspx?SearchType=ASCENTS&CragName=Rue+des+masques&AscentName=La+mal%e9diction+du+voyageur&AscentType=0'>La malédiction du voyageur</a> Click to Repeat Ascent: <a href='Search.aspx?SearchType=ASCENTS&CragName=Rue+des+masques&AscentName=La+mal%e9diction+du+voyageur&AscentType=0'>La malédiction du voyageur</a> Click to post on FB wall 12-08-03 6b+ La malédiction du voyageur Rue des masques / Le Canyon rep 550
Click to Edit Ascent: <a href='Search.aspx?SearchType=ASCENTS&CragName=Rue+des+masques&AscentName=O%eee+Liberta&AscentType=0'>Oîe Liberta</a> Click to Repeat Ascent: <a href='Search.aspx?SearchType=ASCENTS&CragName=Rue+des+masques&AscentName=O%eee+Liberta&AscentType=0'>Oîe Liberta</a> Click to post on FB wall 12-08-03 6b Oîe Liberta Rue des masques / Le Canyon Repeat, Hard rep, bloc 499
Click to Edit Ascent: <a href='Search.aspx?SearchType=ASCENTS&CragName=Tour+Termier&AscentName=Le+Feu+Sacr%e9&AscentType=0'>Le Feu Sacré</a> Click to Repeat Ascent: <a href='Search.aspx?SearchType=ASCENTS&CragName=Tour+Termier&AscentName=Le+Feu+Sacr%e9&AscentType=0'>Le Feu Sacré</a> Click to post on FB wall 12-08-01 7a Le Feu Sacré Tour Termier Hard 10 pitch MP with hard crux pitch that is 7a in topo. res around 6b+/6c. * 845