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Since years travelling is a big part of the climbing game for me. I have to admit, that I am some kind of an addict, when it comes to climbing trips, exotic rocks and stuff like this. But honestly: Let the climber who is without sin cast the first stone. Climbing trips are boss!!
My small addiction goes along with some nerdy habits that used to get more intense during the years. For example the runningoutofmoney-month that occurs to be October, or the scrubs like fade ways whenever I see rocks in the back of a travel advertisement showing the usual ‘almost naked girl in front of a landscape’ -subject. Mostly the fadeaways are because of the rocks and me visualizing my fantasy’s doing the craziest new wave climbing hit on this very beautiful very innocent rocks far away from home and mankind.
My people at home get some kind of surreal when I actually get to see them without staring into a screen. My attention fades to zero when someone tells me that: ‘the Routes at home are the best and he does not understand why he should take the burden of an expensive travel…. (fade out here)…..’
And finally after a certain amount of time at home I start feeling some kind of an uncertain restlessness. My fadeaways, or lets call them daydreams are getting more and more and all of a sudden my fingertips touch the enter button of my laptop and minutes later a mail appears in my account with a subject written as ‘booking confirmation.
This summer the confirmation was for the flight from Vienna to Melbourne and back. Good choice I said to myself and the pictures of the golden, iron fluid sandstone of the Grampians started to take over again and again and a couple of days later on the other side of the earth a lot of beautiful deja-vues made my days.
The mixture of some good old friends, great food, amazing rock and the most important daily question: rope or pad made the living here almost too perfect. Luckily the ‘sizzle-rain’ sometimes appeared and the outstanding climbing offered great opportunity for fear and battles and desperation and necessarily stuff like that. God I loved the climbing there! The Taipanwall as the mother of all climbing walls is worth a loooooong-climbing trip itself. Beside we could choose out of other sweet cracks like the mulin cave, the millenium cave and bouldering areas with big names like ammagamma, wheel of life, projektwallnomore (ask nalle), etc.etc.
The list is endless. Our time was limited.
I want to thank the people who made this trip as great as it was: Andréa, Anna, ganja, mena, flo, killi, reini, peter, James, flo, chuck, the spooky lady and of course HB Matheson for his routes and his inspirational mustache.
Besides a lot of things I tried and could not finish, there are some nice ticks I should mention here I guess
Who is a naughty boy? 8B+ Taipan
Lord of the rings direkt start 8b/b+ Mt Arapolis (3rd try)
Eat more lard 8b Millenium cave (3rd try)
Path of Yin 8a+
Sleepy hollow 8A
Etch a Sketch 8A
Hope to show you some filming soon,
enjoy climbing, take care
Above Berni Fiedler on “who is a noughty boy” 8b+ Photo: Flo Scheimpflug
Berni Fiedler on the crux of “who is a naughty boy” 8b+ Photo by Flo Scheimpflug