Moon Climbing

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The year 2012

The year 2012 is coming to an end and as one often does at the end of a year I find myself looking back, evaluating, reviewing and re-experiencing the year that has passed. I think about all the memorable climbing experiences I have had, all the fun and exciting things that happened, all the big highlights. And I also think about the things that were not so good, climbs I could not finish, trips and competitions that did not go as well as I hoped and things in my training and plans that I wish I had done differently. I also evaluate the decisions that I made and see how this has changed my life as a climber.

After I finished high school in the summer 2011 I decided to have one year where I just focused on climbing, training and traveling before I started university. Therefore when the year 2012 began I was in Spain doing sport climbing. I was in a pretty good shape after an autumn where I only had been climbing and not having to juggle schoolwork and training every day. I had a great time in Spain and got to climb a lot of amazing routes at different crags. During the time in Spain I experienced one of my greatest climbing moments so far by doing Fish Eye at the Oliana cliff. It is a truly amazing line, going up the entire mid-sector of the wall and offering 50 meters of climbing! Clipping the anchors is a moment I am sure I will never forget..



After all the long routes in Spain I was ready to do some bouldering again. I had three bouldering trips during the spring and summer. Fist to Creciano and Chironico in Switzerland (April), then the Magic Woods (in June) and at last Rocklands, (July) the trip that I had been looking forward to all year! I won’t go into details about all the bouldering we did, instead I added some photos to illustrate what a great time we had!

After Rocklands my “climbing-year” was over and I was starting university. I applied for Medicine school to become a doctor and I got in. This meant that the independent life without many obligations that I had lived during the last thirteen months was over. It was back to the everyday life of balancing school, homework and social life with training and traveling. I must admit that after a year with just climbing I was a bit fed up and was quite eager to get back to some old routines and get some other components into my life besides climbing related stuff. Don’t misinterpret me; I love climbing and everything that goes with it, but I am quite a restless person who needs things happening all the time, if not I am bored. Having a year just focusing on climbing gives you quite a lot of spare time; you need to rest between your climbing trips and during your training periods, and I discovered that when I did not have school or any other obligations when I was home, I quickly got bored.


So I was excited to start university and looking forward to it a lot. But I soon discovered that finding the right balance between training and studying was a bigger challenge than I had expected. I quickly felt out of shape and I experienced that I did not have the time to do all the training that I wanted. I did some competitions which did not go as well as planned (the World Championships in Paris and the World Cup in Kranj). During the first month of school my motivation varied a lot. As well did my feeling of strength; some days were really good and others where really bad, depending on the stress at school. But after a while I was, at last, beginning to find a rhythm and my motivation and climbing shape got better.

Now, after five months, I have a feeling that the situation of school and training is beginning to settle and I am finding the right way to balance my everyday life. Although the autumn offered some unexpected challenges I am confident now that the year of 2013 will be yet another great climbing year! Although I will not be able to travel as much as I did last year I will still be able to train and do traveling during the holidays. I will probably not do that many competitions but instead spend the time I can take off from school to go climbing outside and puh my limit on rock! This starts next week when I am, once again, going to Spain. The year 2013 will begin like the year 2012 did- doing sport climbing in Spain!