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Moon Climbing

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Santoku

That’s WHY I climb – it can’t get much better!!! Imagine a massive 12m long 80degrees overhanging granite-prow, heel/toe hooks, funky/tricky, and powerful compressions-moves all the way to the top -“Sanoku” – in Ticino – never ever seen something like that – never ever had climbed so many good moves in a row!!! It is pure perfection from the sitdownstart to the top. For a compression-fanatic like myself it’s just the Holy Grail ;) Thanx so much to Andi and Fabian for putting up that boulder!

First day I had a nice session with Fabi and Andi. It was great to get all the tricky beta for once instead of spending hours/days by my own looking for a good solution. After getting a cold and some snow went down in Ticino I was back two weeks later. I still could not believe how good the climbing was. And as I like(d) it so much I just had to “climb” it three times in a row ;)

Entering the crux of “Santoku” – what a LINE!!! Pic by angelawagner.ch

 

Trust your heels! One of the best sequences EVER – Thanx a lot for the great pic to angelawagner.ch

 

keep the tension – you should not fall anymore after you get that hold left hand… – I fell twice ;) Pic by angelawagner.ch

 

First two tries of that day I fell off the 5a-top-out (once I dabbed, once I had too cold). After that I was soooooooo tired I just wanted to go home but Prisca and Nico convinced my to just “give it another go”…. (BIG THANKS TO THEM!!!). So I chalked up again and nearly went down on the very first (easy) move. I was pretty tired but somehow managed to not fall off on the next few harder moves. Getting into the second part I went totally “a muerte” and to my biggest surprise I did not fell on the mantel again and made it all the way up on top of that beauty.

Lying on the top (because I was totally exhausted) I just could not believe what had happened and could not stop laughing about myself… always drama… but this time I sent… nice little change for once ;)