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PLAY SPECIFIC, AS SPECIFIC IS THE GAME... Ivan Lisicia
PLAY SPECIFIC, AS SPECIFIC IS THE GAME
The other day I did a short, one-hour Moon Board session. A few people were surprised that I spent the whole session ‘just’ on the Board. ‘Guys,’ I said, ‘this is about going to the root. There’s no question.’
I realized once again that many people are totally confused about how to train for specific goals or at least how to be relatively good on their weekend visits to the crag.
Most will agree that to progress in something with as many variables as climbing you must train specific. It is a complex subject and you can’t just to decide to do it. First you have to understand what you actually need to do. You must be clever, creative and ready to face your physical and mental weakneses. This ain`t easy.
I don´t do competitions any more so I am not interested in modern parkour bouldering; I don`t even need stylish volumes, dynos, mantels and so on. I enjoy climbing all that stuff for fun, especially in good company, but when I am trying to get in shape for some local sport routes (like now), I know it won’t help, not even a bit.
I need basic finger and core strength, and the Moon Board gives me precisely this. I also need to be super strong for 25 to 30 moves, and I often drill this with indoor circuits training. These training routes need to involve complex footwork on small holds. The fatigue won´t be anything like an ‘outside pump’ unless I climb the circuits at least twice as slowly as normal at a controled, precise and steady pace. Rushing through the circuits with poor footwork is a waste of time. To go specific means to go slower with full quality of movement. Don`t run from the pump like a rabbit, don´t be afraid of it; accept it like a man and ride with it.
If you want to climb well on the rock, try to spend a lot of time at the crag. Prepare yourself by doing lots of easy/medium range routes, learn to read rock well, to find good rhythm and to switch quickly from one type of a route to another. Do not rely just on your physical performances, there is a clear ‘importance of being weak’ as Dave Graham wisely said. Turn off youtube, become your own beta master, try out different tactics, grow hard skin, do your last routes in the dark, be ready for cold and warm days.
Beside ticking new stuff, test yourself by repeating some old classic that doesn´t suit you, this will boost your confidence – outside on the wall, confidence is your best friend. Learn how to stay calm in intense situations, always stay relaxed and cool even when you have to skip a draw or two or reach a jug on a long-term project. This won` t come over night: you’ll have to work on it for a long time and during your daily routine when you don´t climb.
Watching Adam Ondra training videos where he trains 3 times for 5 hours a day won`t help you much. It is a great motivator but doesn´t help a lot practically.
Decide what you want to achive, play specific, as specific is the game and enjoy it. Even a weekend warrior can resemble Ondra for an afternoon!
1) Planing some revolutionary tactics before FA of Alcatraz (8b+), Trogir
2) Pinch training for (local) tufas
3) Weighted circuits – slow pace non stop
4) Putting all into work on FA of Antuntun (7c+), Markezina greda