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Blog

Showing 25 to 32 of 779 posts

Looking back at 2014

  • 13.01.2015- by Kajsa Rosen
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It's hard to summarize the last few months. I have been super busy. School is getting harder and my love to climbing is getting bigger (this doesn't go hand in hand...)

I guess I have to start this blog with one of the biggest happenings 2014: The junior world championships. First of all I came 3:rd, which really surprised me. The competition took place in New Caledonia, a Island next to Australia. I had never been that far away from home, and probably I will never be it again.

One week later I won the Nordic championships in bouldering. A month later, and the same weekend, the Swedish championships in lead and a fun competition at my local climbing gym called "gymfedjen" togheter with my awesome team (it was a battle between all the climbing gyms in stockholm). Two weeks after the Nordic championships in lead, and one week after that I won the jRead More...

Moon Board Challenge

  • 12.01.2015- by Ben Moon
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Your last Moon Board challenge was this spicy 7b going on 7c problem. Did you meet the challenge? Are you ready for the next? It's going to be all change on the Moon Board in the next few days with 3 new compatible set ups created by our Croatian team to freshen up your training.Read More...

LAST MOVES AGAIN - AND A LITTLE SEND

  • 31.12.2014- by Martin Keller
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[caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="715"] After waiting all day at Ticino for "Insanity" to dry without success; change of program: Walk up to Sustenpass, 2000m above sea level, 1st of Dezember; "Highlander-Project", 0:30AM, 0C, very windy, COLD, climbing into the last move again...[/caption] It looks like it just does not matter what i try and when i try... i can make my way up to the last move(s) of any of my lifetime projects, at -2C or at +20C... in the dry... in the wet... but just don't send... either it's too cold, i am too tired, too rested, too.... "something"... and then i suddenly start falling off the first move.... then every other move and then fighting up to the last one again... to go down on that as well... but i am working on the "something" - and i will get to that top(s)... sooner or latRead More...

My trip to US and all that sandstone

  • 22.12.2014- by Katja Vidmar
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It was finally here - the time to pack my bags and fly to Vegas. A month of a simple life in a desert was waiting for us and so were all that blocs out there. We've been on a trip to US before. Somehow we end up coming back almost every year. This time we decided to see what Nevada and Utah have to offer. [caption id="attachment_17340" align="aligncenter" width="300"]IMG_1339 (1) Amazing Plumber's Crack[/caption] First stop: Red Rocks. That place truly blew me away. So many different colours and shapes of rock and styles of climbing. You can find anything and everything is so good. I enjoyed the whole experience. From walking to the boulders and just looking around, to super fun warm ups and finally, the trying hard on something thaRead More...

Statement of Youth anniversary film

  • 20.11.2014- by Ben Moon
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It seems hard to believe but it was 30 years ago back in 1984, aged just 18 that I made the first ascent of the UK?s 2nd 8a Statement of Youth. At the time it caused quite a stir in the climbing world not because of it?s difficulty but because I had used 7 bolts to climb it. To those not familiar with climbing in the 1980s this might seem pretty strange but back then sport climbing in the UK didn?t exist. Although it would take a few years this was all going to change and Statement played a big part in this change. During the past 30 years I have made several 1st ascents around the world but there are none that I am more proud of than Statement of Youth. Located at Lower Pen-Trwyn (LPT to most people) on the Great Orme in North Wales the route takes a line up the right-hand side of the steep left hand section of the cliff. With no particular crux section but very sustained at the grade it?s a right of passage for the sport climber aspiring to the magical 8th grade. To celebrate its Read More...

Summer road trip in the United States

In the past years, my bigger trips abroad have always been revolving around climbing. It was usually  about finding the right spot with the right conditions at that time and go for it. And it was great! Our passion is climbing and what's better than travelling to a foreign country to do so! On another hand, those trips never left room for anything else than the sport though, which also can be a bit of a pity sometimes when I look back. Mostly, I would be stuck in one place only - the crag and  the town (or village) you would stay or buy your groceries from. There have always been good intentions in the forefront of the trip, of what cool things you could go see on your rest days! Or even cut down some of the climbing days at the beginning/end to travel somewhere close, not for climbing! But in the end it never actually happened... On rest days you're always too tired and lazy to do any other than chill out and take care of your skin. And you won't be cutting the climbing days becaRead More...

From furious summer into autumn tranquility

  • 07.11.2014- by Ivan Lisica
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This summer I started to work on Vukowar project, the one of The Big Four, while the half of the line was still wet. I worked the route in a very structured sessions, usually doing laps on critical parts and climbing them in very precise style and slow pace, almost like doing french blow on every single move in a row. I know it is modern to go fast like Ondra these days but I still like to work on moves in a slow style and than just add some extra speed when I go for real. Anyway, I knew there will be just a small time window when the route will be completly dry and I worked like a maniac to get fit and confident for that moment. It was true. Vukowar got dry and it lasted for just around 2 weeks, but it was enough. I was totally prepaired and I did FA in literally first real try. It is always a great feeling and privilege to climb such a special lines but since I often emotionaly connect with them I cant escape some sorrow oncRead More...

Another Ninja Year

  • 15.10.2014- by Isaac Caldiero
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Another year has gone by since our first appearance on the TV show American Ninja Warrior, my training has evolved ten fold since then compared to any previous years I've had in climbing, I guess when you have serious incentive like winning $500,000 its worth investing the time and pain of training. I have never been an advocate for training and thats what has been one of the biggest attractions for me to rock climb, and when I say rock climb I mean actually outside climbing rocks. You can go out with friends, be in nature, having fun doing what you love without feeling the annoyances and pressure to train and get stronger. It just happens naturally and thats what I have always loved about climbing. Its taken me to great extremes and amazing places that I had only dreamed of in the past. But, when it comes to being number 1 and being above and beyond in skill and strength, I have recently found it mandatory to train. The skills I've developed in a small amount of time in ninja traininRead More...

Showing 25 to 32 of 779 posts