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Blog

Showing 33 to 40 of 751 posts

My first senior competition

A few a weeks ago, I participated in my first senior competition, the Nordic championship. Since I turned 16 this year it's my first year I get to compete with the seniors. So for me, this competition was a completely new experience. The contest took place at Klättercentret K2 in Stockholm where I usually train. I signed up just for fun. I would never have dreamt about to fight with the absolute best, but I hoped to reach the final. There was a strong line up for both women and men. I'm glad so many talented girls participated, among them Therese Johansen, Hannah Mitbø, Tina Johansen Hafsaas and moon climber Katrine Vandet Salling.

I felt rather nervous for the qualification, like a small shit among the others. Since I hadn't been at any senior competition before, I didn't really know how it all worked. Luckily I knew a lot of nice people from Sweden in the isolation I could talk with.

The qualification did not go as well as I had hoped, IRead More...

Summer holiday 2013

Summer holiday 2013 The summer closure of Checkpoint climbing village compels us to a long process of maintenance of the routes of all the gym .. So come 110 new boulders and over 30 routes. In the meantime, we made a visit to the Briançonnaise area , which is just over two hours from home, and we climbed at La Saume with MOON Athlete David who with great enthusiasm and sympathy took us on a wonderful day of climbing ! I was in great shape and decide to groped for an "on sight" on the beautiful and long ( 38mt ) "petite danseuse " 8a + . After an initial long mouve from a wet hold, a long and stressful struggle on small holds but supported by Elena and David cheering.. I could not fall off and yes I got it! Back to work for a few weeks in the gym, then we left for a long awaited holiday .. The first destination was " Ceuse" who for the last 20 years has given me great emotions ... Here the days are marked by a slow pace .. You have to wait for the conditions in the cool Read More...

The mothership

Conditions are better and works on renovation are nearly finished. Time to climb more and work less. During summer I didn't climb a lot, but enough to keep my physical form from dropping to low. In a last few weeks I trained a bit more and started to go outdoor more often.

There was always a line in our local boulder spot Ožbalt, that was sooo obvious, but with a scary top-out and

Read More...

Summer is gone

Summer as always went by quickly, I think that the human beings should be on holidays 350 days a year… After finishing the maintenance works in the gym, on August 9 my girlfriend and I decided to leave for a 10 days tour between Val Daone and Zillertal. First stop in Val Daone, an enchanting valley beneath the Adamello, well known for its ice falls. In recent years a large group of climbers from Trento and Brescia is enhancing it with granite blocks which have nothing to envy to the Ticino ones. After one day running, I decided to try a block that I already spotted on Internet, a very beautiful top furrowed by very good crimps released by Gabriele Moroni. I spent half a day searching for the best sequence for hands and feet, but after the first laps from the bottom I realized that I spent too much energy in the study of movements and I decided to come back more rested the day after. Next morning I waked up painfully, because in the lasRead More...

Sweet Summer

with a sliced fingertip at its ending....

After my "super-close-no-send" of the highlander-project in mid july I was off to Indo for some surfing and it was a great time. Life was very simple: surf, eat, sleep - nothing more, nothing less. It was good for my body to let my knee and hamstring heal and good for my mind as well!

Style is everything... ;)

Back home in swizzy I was greeted by rain but the next daRead More...

Back in the days!

During these months I was able to travel a lot with my friends and with my family. In particular in August I spent ten days in Briançon, because my brother Marco and I prefered to check new climbing cliffs instead of going as usual to Ceuse. We pratically climbed in three beautiful crags: -Face Bouc -La Saume -Rue des masques Face Bouc is situated in Ailefroide Valley, a great steep granite wall with fantastic routes. In one day I managed to climb three different lines here, I was very amused! The easy routes to the very left of the crag were all in the sun so I decided to warm up on Cambonne Beurre 7a+ but when I arrived at the anchor I realised that this was wrong way to start the day because I felt quite pumpy and "locked" but after a great rest I felt OK. The second route was Fiaschi Natique 7c+ just on the left of CambonneRead More...

Switzerland Mark II

There aren't many places in the world that I think about more. I have only been there once before, but every time I picture it, I start to feel my senses heighten. My palms start to sweat, my fingers crimp involuntarily and I picture pristine granite boulders... Hells yeah, I'm off to Switzerland again. Four weeks out and I couldn't be more excited. Since last year when I spent 2 weeks running around Chironico and Brione I have thought of little else in terms of overseas trips. Well, that's not entirely true, I think about Squamish, Font, Rocklands, Norway, Hueco, Albarracin, but most often I dream of Ticino, the beautiful Swiss Canton, home to some of the most amazing boulders that this wee planet has to offer. I'm not exactly lacking incredible places to climb, I have been living within touching distance of the Grampians up until the middle of this year and have been lucky enough to have free reign on literally hundreds of first ascents. So, why then do I feel so drawn to a far off Read More...

My Colorado adventure (part 2)

I left Colorado with some mixed emotions. I love it there. The beautiful nature, the granite boulders, the wildlife, the fresh air. It’s amazing. But on the other hand, I haven’t seen that much rain in a while. Not even in Font. Getting rained out on the hike out, endless waiting under some overhang for the shower or thunderstorm to be over, hail, rain, blue sky, rainbow, more rain. This is what they call here ‘’the true Colorado experience’’. Luckily, the rocks dry very quickly.

With the weather forecast telling me everyday that there is about 50% chance of rain or possible thunderstorms, I didn't really plan my climbing days or rest days. I climbed whenever it was possible on whatever was most likely to be dry. No real projects, just climbing a lot when it was good. We had a few really amazing days. Rocky Mountain, Mt. Evans, Lincoln Lake and Wild Basin. There’s so much to do and once you get used to the high altitude and long hikes you geRead More...

Showing 33 to 40 of 751 posts