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Showing 33 to 40 of 764 posts

Moon Board Problems

and set of School Holds which will hopefully make life a bit easier all round. Rather than setting one problem at a time, this method puts the full set of holds all on the board at the same time in a random position. Then we have set problems on this grid from 6c up to about 8a which can all be climbed without moving a hold. For these problems you only need the grid ref on the sheets below. Not rocket science but just a more traditional way of setting problems. More sheets will follow in this manner. Let us know how you get on and send us some problems based on these setups if you spot any alternatives you consider worth a bash.

We have set up 2 new sets of problems 05 & 06 and for those of you with 2 sets of School Holds we have combined problems 05 & 06 into 1 uber set of problems!

November 2007:

>DOWNLOAD SCHOOL PROBLEMS SETUP 05.PDF (40KB);

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A GoodYear

There are times around the Christmas period when I start to feel a little down. Now this is not because I am a sad sack who has no family or mates to pass the festive season with. Its more to do with the weather. Whilst you Northeners are passing the days in blissful conditions, sub zero, dry hands, sticky rock type stuff, it starts to get really hot down here in the So Hem. It's not unusual to have a Christmas where the mercury peaks at around 40degrees. In other words, it's terrible conditions for climbing. Now, it's bad enough that its fucking hot already, but to make matters worse, this year, for the first time in 7 or 8 years, I have to work all summer. So, not only do I miss out on climbing, I can't go travelling, I can't hang on the beach all day and party all night, Well I guess I can party all night, but fronting up to work hung over in your own restaurant all summer is probably not a great look, not to mention a shitty way to pass the days. So, yeah, I'm feeling a little low,Read More...

Santoku

That’s WHY I climb - it can't get much better!!! Imagine a massive 12m long 80degrees overhanging granite-prow, heel/toe hooks, funky/tricky, and powerful compressions-moves all the way to the top -“Sanoku” - in Ticino - never ever seen something like that - never ever had climbed so many good moves in a row!!! It is pure perfection from the sitdownstart to the top. For a compression-fanatic like myself it’s just the Holy Grail ;) Thanx so much to Andi and Fabian for putting up that boulder! First day I had a nice session with Fabi and Andi. It was great to get all the tricky beta for once instead of spending hours/days by my own looking for a good solution. After getting a cold and some snow went down in Ticino I was back two weeks later. I still could not believe how good the climbing was. And as I like(d) it so much I just had to "climb" it three times in a row ;) [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="549"]Read More...

Deja Vu

After a quick 15 hour flight from Salt Lake City-Chicago-Dublin and finally Paris, the once far away magical forest of Fontainebleau was within my grasp. I love returning to an area 10 years later for its as if I had never been, everything fresh and new but still so familiar, a bit of deja vu was clearly present. We snatched up our spiffy French car and hit the road, after sussing out our living sitiuation with a good friend the time had come to attack the precious boulders. Unfortunately the ever present moisture and dew had devoured the boulders and never seemed to evaporate. Climbing in Fontainebleau is by far one of the most technical styles of rock in the world, its also extremely temperature dependent. The conditions were completely horrible, and even the thought of projecting anything above the warmup grade was out of the question. It was fun for a day or two but after 3 weeks of the continuous let down, my mind began to go a little cuckoo. Nearing the end of our France advenRead More...

Ups & Downs

Last few months turned into totally unexpected direction. I was just starting to feel light and strong when something snaped in my righ middle finger during one gym session. I already had problems with tendon sheets from time to time but this was something different and I immediately knew that I ruined few months of good training and will have to start once over again. So instead climbing outside on the premiere Dalmatian limestone in cool autumn conditions I ended up indoor on physiotherapy sessions at my friend Goran Vratarić. He treated my finger with microwaves, magnet, ultrasound, massage and we included elbow into the sessions since it hurted from time to time due to 2mm calcification I had on right medial condil. In the meanwhile my climbing club Marulianus finally signed rent contract for the place where we will build our new climbing gym. It is a huge project and once finished this will surely be the biggest climbing gym in Croatia. Beside great boulder area etc. , tRead More...

Evolution

Those of you who follow my Twitter/Facebook feed might be wondering how the Evolution story ended. Unfortunately there was no happy ending but the story isn’t over yet and all being well, a new chapter will begin again in the spring. I’ve not climbed now for about 3 weeks but up until that point all my climbing days over the previous 6 weeks were spent on Evolution. That’s about 2 days a week with no training days in between. It’s amazing how quickly you can rack up the days when fully committed and Evolution in terms of days invested is now probably number 2 on my all time list behind a certain route at Kilnsey. Hopefully the outcome will be different this time around! After getting bogged down on Evolution’s second crux for several days but still doing big links I finally got the breakthrough I had hoped for and during 1 session red-pointed all the way through to the last move 3 times. Unfortunately the last hold was seeping and I got spat off while setting up for theRead More...

There is no third thing

  1 BERNHARD FIEDLER CLIMBINGTRIPARTICLE     3 BERNHARD FIEDLER CLIMBINGTRIPARTICLE 4 BERNHARD FIEDLER CLIMBINGTRIPARTICLERead More...

Achille is mine!

I have been going often to Monte Amiata since 2006 with my friends Lorenzo Frusteri and Beniamino (Bengio) Chiesi, who moved there a few years ago in order to increase the value of this area.

Among the many areas that I visited in years I missed the one located near the summit at nearly 1500 meters high. It is a very beautiful cliff. Bengio told me about it, its name is Achille, he felt for a long time but

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Showing 33 to 40 of 764 posts