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Moon Blog / Contributor / admin

Showing 1 to 8 of 48 posts

FIBO Competition Sheffield

Some old timer recently came first in the Sheffield FIBO bouldering completion. Here's a short film that the host The Foundry Climbing Centre produced after the event. We hope you enjoy.

F-BO15 - Foundry Bouldering Open 2015 from The Foundry Climbing Centre on Vimeo.

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On the damage caused to rock by brushing.

  • 12.02.2015- by Ben Moon
  • Opinion
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North East climber and photographer Mark Savage recently sent me a photo of the damage done to the classic Bowden problem Vienna. The damage is obviously due to its popularity and Vienna is certainly not unique in this respect. There will be classic problems all over the country which are sadly changing for the worst. One of the causes of this damage is from excessive brushing to remove excess chalk so as to improve the grip between fingers and rock. We all do it and it’s almost become a ritual, part of the mental process of preparing for a hard send. However it’s worth questioning how effective this process is, is it worth the damage it causes and are there better alternatives for improving the friction and therefore your chances of success? I have done plenty of brushing in my time and my company even sells brushes but in most cases I don’t actually believe it does help to improve the friction. The only cases where it might help are where the hold obviously hasn’t beeRead More...

What is The Moon Board?

Now that the School Room is back in business and we have a sexy new Moon Board to train on we thought it was time to make a short film explaining the concept and benefits of training on a Moon Board. We hope you find this film helpful and motivating. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mgl1hNgXr1oRead More...

Moon Board Challenge

Your last Moon Board challenge was this spicy 7b going on 7c problem. Did you meet the challenge? Are you ready for the next? It's going to be all change on the Moon Board in the next few days with 3 new compatible set ups created by our Croatian team to freshen up your training.Read More...

Statement of Youth anniversary film

It seems hard to believe but it was 30 years ago back in 1984, aged just 18 that I made the first ascent of the UK?s 2nd 8a Statement of Youth. At the time it caused quite a stir in the climbing world not because of it?s difficulty but because I had used 7 bolts to climb it. To those not familiar with climbing in the 1980s this might seem pretty strange but back then sport climbing in the UK didn?t exist. Although it would take a few years this was all going to change and Statement played a big part in this change. During the past 30 years I have made several 1st ascents around the world but there are none that I am more proud of than Statement of Youth. Located at Lower Pen-Trwyn (LPT to most people) on the Great Orme in North Wales the route takes a line up the right-hand side of the steep left hand section of the cliff. With no particular crux section but very sustained at the grade it?s a right of passage for the sport climber aspiring to the magical 8th grade. To celebrate its Read More...

Statement of Youth anniversary film

It seems hard to believe but it was 30 years ago back in 1984, aged just 18 that I made the first ascent of the UK’s 2nd 8a Statement of Youth. At the time it caused quite a stir in the climbing world not because of it’s difficulty but because I had used 7 bolts to climb it. To those not familiar with climbing in the 1980s this might seem pretty strange but back then sport climbing in the UK didn’t exist. Although it would take a few years this was all going to change and Statement played a big part in this change. During the past 30 years I have made several 1st ascents around the world but there are none that I am more proud of than Statement of Youth. Located at Lower Pen-Trwyn (LPT to most people) on the Great Orme in North Wales the route takes a line up the right-hand side of the steep left hand section of the cliff. With no particular crux section but very sustained at the grade it’s a right of passage for the sport climber aspiring to the magical 8th grade. To celebrRead More...

Moon Board Problems

and set of School Holds which will hopefully make life a bit easier all round. Rather than setting one problem at a time, this method puts the full set of holds all on the board at the same time in a random position. Then we have set problems on this grid from 6c up to about 8a which can all be climbed without moving a hold. For these problems you only need the grid ref on the sheets below. Not rocket science but just a more traditional way of setting problems. More sheets will follow in this manner. Let us know how you get on and send us some problems based on these setups if you spot any alternatives you consider worth a bash.

We have set up 2 new sets of problems 05 & 06 and for those of you with 2 sets of School Holds we have combined problems 05 & 06 into 1 uber set of problems!

November 2007:

>DOWNLOAD SCHOOL PROBLEMS SETUP 05.PDF (40KB);

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Evolution

Those of you who follow my Twitter/Facebook feed might be wondering how the Evolution story ended. Unfortunately there was no happy ending but the story isn’t over yet and all being well, a new chapter will begin again in the spring. I’ve not climbed now for about 3 weeks but up until that point all my climbing days over the previous 6 weeks were spent on Evolution. That’s about 2 days a week with no training days in between. It’s amazing how quickly you can rack up the days when fully committed and Evolution in terms of days invested is now probably number 2 on my all time list behind a certain route at Kilnsey. Hopefully the outcome will be different this time around! After getting bogged down on Evolution’s second crux for several days but still doing big links I finally got the breakthrough I had hoped for and during 1 session red-pointed all the way through to the last move 3 times. Unfortunately the last hold was seeping and I got spat off while setting up for theRead More...

Showing 1 to 8 of 48 posts