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Moon Blog / Contributor / admin

Showing 1 to 8 of 645 posts

Ben Moon's Climbing Diary From 1990 weeks 3 & 4

I am still on the come back road from my skiing injury which had put me out for a couple of months and it would appear the focus at this point is a world cup competition in Vienna, Austria in the last weekend of April. In an attempt to get my endurance up I am flitting between Raven's Tor, Lower Pen-Trwyn and Malham. At Malham I am trying Mark Leach's hard new route Cry Freedom (formerly the aid route Controversy) which weighed in at a hard 8b+. Needless to say the comp didn't go well and I went out in the semi-finals. Scan 3Read More...

Ben Moon's Climbing Diary From 1990 Weeks 1 & 2

To celebrate the first ascent 25 years ago of what is now widely recognised as the worlds 1st 9a route we will be publishing each week my climbing diaries from 25 years ago leading up to the ascent. To give a little bit of background to these diaries the winter of '89 was spent training on my newly constructed training board in the cellar of the small 2-up 2-down terrace I was living in in Sheffield. Although a very basic training board by todays standards it was never the less quite a leap forward for us. Bear in mind that at this time there was no commercial climbing wall in Sheffield and all our training consisted of bouldering either on man made stone walls like Broomgrove Road wall or on the peak limestone and grit. Now we were able to train on a specific style of problem and to train whenever we felt like it regardless of the weather. It certainly paid off and by early February after several months of training I was feeling perhaps the strongest ever. Before attempting to freRead More...

Spring/Summer 2015 Promo Film

  • 03.04.2015- by Ben Moon
  • Videos
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Our new spring/summer 2015 clothing range will be landing at your local retailer any day now and is also available online here at Moon Climbing. We put the following promo film together to give a flavour of what to expect. We hope you enjoy. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SCARvWPk7SoRead More...

FIBO Competition Sheffield

Some old timer recently came first in the Sheffield FIBO bouldering completion. Here's a short film that the host The Foundry Climbing Centre produced after the event. We hope you enjoy.

F-BO15 - Foundry Bouldering Open 2015 from The Foundry Climbing Centre on Vimeo.

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On the damage caused to rock by brushing.

  • 12.02.2015- by Ben Moon
  • Opinion
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North East climber and photographer Mark Savage recently sent me a photo of the damage done to the classic Bowden problem Vienna. The damage is obviously due to its popularity and Vienna is certainly not unique in this respect. There will be classic problems all over the country which are sadly changing for the worst. One of the causes of this damage is from excessive brushing to remove excess chalk so as to improve the grip between fingers and rock. We all do it and it’s almost become a ritual, part of the mental process of preparing for a hard send. However it’s worth questioning how effective this process is, is it worth the damage it causes and are there better alternatives for improving the friction and therefore your chances of success? I have done plenty of brushing in my time and my company even sells brushes but in most cases I don’t actually believe it does help to improve the friction. The only cases where it might help are where the hold obviously hasn’t beeRead More...

What is The Moon Board?

Now that the School Room is back in business and we have a sexy new Moon Board to train on we thought it was time to make a short film explaining the concept and benefits of training on a Moon Board. We hope you find this film helpful and motivating. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mgl1hNgXr1oRead More...

Moon Board Challenge

Your last Moon Board challenge was this spicy 7b going on 7c problem. Did you meet the challenge? Are you ready for the next? It's going to be all change on the Moon Board in the next few days with 3 new compatible set ups created by our Croatian team to freshen up your training.Read More...

Statement of Youth anniversary film

It seems hard to believe but it was 30 years ago back in 1984, aged just 18 that I made the first ascent of the UK?s 2nd 8a Statement of Youth. At the time it caused quite a stir in the climbing world not because of it?s difficulty but because I had used 7 bolts to climb it. To those not familiar with climbing in the 1980s this might seem pretty strange but back then sport climbing in the UK didn?t exist. Although it would take a few years this was all going to change and Statement played a big part in this change. During the past 30 years I have made several 1st ascents around the world but there are none that I am more proud of than Statement of Youth. Located at Lower Pen-Trwyn (LPT to most people) on the Great Orme in North Wales the route takes a line up the right-hand side of the steep left hand section of the cliff. With no particular crux section but very sustained at the grade it?s a right of passage for the sport climber aspiring to the magical 8th grade. To celebrate its Read More...

Showing 1 to 8 of 645 posts