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Moon Blog / Contributor / admin

Showing 1 to 8 of 44 posts

Statement of Youth anniversary film

It seems hard to believe but it was 30 years ago back in 1984, aged just 18 that I made the first ascent of the UK?s 2nd 8a Statement of Youth. At the time it caused quite a stir in the climbing world not because of it?s difficulty but because I had used 7 bolts to climb it. To those not familiar with climbing in the 1980s this might seem pretty strange but back then sport climbing in the UK didn?t exist. Although it would take a few years this was all going to change and Statement played a big part in this change. During the past 30 years I have made several 1st ascents around the world but there are none that I am more proud of than Statement of Youth. Located at Lower Pen-Trwyn (LPT to most people) on the Great Orme in North Wales the route takes a line up the right-hand side of the steep left hand section of the cliff. With no particular crux section but very sustained at the grade it?s a right of passage for the sport climber aspiring to the magical 8th grade. To celebrate its Read More...

Statement of Youth anniversary film

It seems hard to believe but it was 30 years ago back in 1984, aged just 18 that I made the first ascent of the UK’s 2nd 8a Statement of Youth. At the time it caused quite a stir in the climbing world not because of it’s difficulty but because I had used 7 bolts to climb it. To those not familiar with climbing in the 1980s this might seem pretty strange but back then sport climbing in the UK didn’t exist. Although it would take a few years this was all going to change and Statement played a big part in this change. During the past 30 years I have made several 1st ascents around the world but there are none that I am more proud of than Statement of Youth. Located at Lower Pen-Trwyn (LPT to most people) on the Great Orme in North Wales the route takes a line up the right-hand side of the steep left hand section of the cliff. With no particular crux section but very sustained at the grade it’s a right of passage for the sport climber aspiring to the magical 8th grade. To celebrRead More...

Moon Board Problems

and set of School Holds which will hopefully make life a bit easier all round. Rather than setting one problem at a time, this method puts the full set of holds all on the board at the same time in a random position. Then we have set problems on this grid from 6c up to about 8a which can all be climbed without moving a hold. For these problems you only need the grid ref on the sheets below. Not rocket science but just a more traditional way of setting problems. More sheets will follow in this manner. Let us know how you get on and send us some problems based on these setups if you spot any alternatives you consider worth a bash.

We have set up 2 new sets of problems 05 & 06 and for those of you with 2 sets of School Holds we have combined problems 05 & 06 into 1 uber set of problems!

November 2007:

>DOWNLOAD SCHOOL PROBLEMS SETUP 05.PDF (40KB);

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Evolution

Those of you who follow my Twitter/Facebook feed might be wondering how the Evolution story ended. Unfortunately there was no happy ending but the story isn’t over yet and all being well, a new chapter will begin again in the spring. I’ve not climbed now for about 3 weeks but up until that point all my climbing days over the previous 6 weeks were spent on Evolution. That’s about 2 days a week with no training days in between. It’s amazing how quickly you can rack up the days when fully committed and Evolution in terms of days invested is now probably number 2 on my all time list behind a certain route at Kilnsey. Hopefully the outcome will be different this time around! After getting bogged down on Evolution’s second crux for several days but still doing big links I finally got the breakthrough I had hoped for and during 1 session red-pointed all the way through to the last move 3 times. Unfortunately the last hold was seeping and I got spat off while setting up for theRead More...

Climbing Gear Stolen from Moon Climbing

As you now all probably know we got burgled on Saturday. The thieves took about 3500 units of men and women’s clothing, packs and bags. All of this stock was stolen from an overflow warehouse we have been using during this busy period. It seems like it was well planned and the robbers knew what they wanted. Yesterday I visited several local businesses and using their CCTV footage have pieced together what happened. There were 3 robbers driving a white high top Ford Transit van. They broke in to the warehouse on foot at 14.00 with the van following shortly after. They took about 30mins to load the van and left just before 15.00. They came back again on foot at 18.30 but were disturbed by one of my neighbors and made their escape. Using the CCTV footage we have managed to map the route they took after the robbery but as yet have not been able to identify either the robbers or the vehicle registration but I am hopeful we can. So far the police don’t seem to be that interested in soRead More...

CWIF Competition

Before heading out to Siruana I received a text message from ex British Bouldering Champion Gareth Parry inviting me to compete in one of his Bloc Fest competitions. Since the comp was the next day it was a bit last minute and I had to decline. Strangely the invite coincided with a dream I had had the night before in which I was back in the competition arena. Goodness knows what Freud would have made of that, midlife crisis perhaps? Anyway whilst in Siruana I had the crazy idea of entering a Moon team in the up and coming CWIF competition at The Climbing Works. After a few phone calls and text messages I had recruited British junior champion Molly-Thompson Smith, young talent Tom Newman, my friend and Climbing Works regular Bob Smith and some old has been called Ben Moon. Since returning from Siruana work and family commitments have meant that my climbing and training have taken a back seat but in a token effort to prepare for CWIF I did squeeze in one session at The Climbing WorRead More...

Sport-Climbing In Siruana

  • 14.02.2013- by Ben Moon
  • Travel
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I am with friends in Siruana at the moment for a short sport-climbing holiday. It’s probably the first sport-climbing trip in about 15 years and I have to say it’s been a huge amount of fun. Most of the friends I am with are of a similar age to myself and we all lead very different lifestyles to those we lived 15 or 20 years ago. The past few days have brought back many fond memories of past trips when younger and confirms why we all love climbing so much even whilst failing at it! I’ve heard so much about Siruana over the years but have never had the pleasure of climbing here but it hasn’t disappointed. Quite a few people told me the style was old school and I would have to agree but for me this is definitely a positive. Most of the climbs vary from just off vertical to slightly overhanging and the style generally is fingery and quite technical. Yesterday we bumped in to the legendary Tony Arbones who put up many of the classic Siruana hard routes of the 80s and 90s and is Read More...

Moon Arete, Horsetooth Reservoir

Here a short film from David Mason climbing at Horsetooth Reservoir, Colorado. I made the first ascent of Moon Arete way back in 1991 when I went there with Christian Griffith. This was a time when bouldering wasn't really recognised and 1st ascents not always named which was the case with this problem. I don't really remember much about the ascent and it didn't bother to name it and it was probably Christian who called it Moon Arete. It nice to see it's become such a classic problem.

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Showing 1 to 8 of 44 posts