I am with friends in Siruana at the moment for a short sport-climbing holiday. It’s probably the first sport-climbing trip in about 15 years and I have to say it’s been a huge amount of fun. Most of the friends I am with are of a similar age to myself and we all lead very different lifestyles to those we lived 15 or 20 years ago. The past few days have brought back many fond memories of past trips when younger and confirms why we all love climbing so much even whilst failing at it!
I’ve heard so much about Siruana over the years but have never had the pleasure of climbing here but it hasn’t disappointed. Quite a few people told me the style was old school and I would have to agree but for me this is definitely a positive. Most of the climbs vary from just off vertical to slightly overhanging and the style generally is fingery and quite technical. Yesterday we bumped in to the legendary Tony Arbones who put up many of the classic Siruana hard routes of the 80s and 90s and is Read More...
Here a short film from David Mason climbing at Horsetooth Reservoir, Colorado. I made the first ascent of Moon Arete way back in 1991 when I went there with Christian Griffith. This was a time when bouldering wasn't really recognised and 1st ascents not always named which was the case with this problem. I don't really remember much about the ascent and it didn't bother to name it and it was probably Christian who called it Moon Arete. It nice to see it's become such a classic problem.
I wrote the following Blog about 2 weeks ago but for some reason didn’t get around to publishing it but the very sad news today of the death of Patrick Edlinger at the age of 52 only confirmed what I had already been thinking. I am not a morbid person nor prone to morbid thoughts but it is a fact that we are not long on this earth and if we are not careful life can pass us by very quickly. I didn’t know Patrick well but met him on many occasions in the late 80s at competitions and on the crags in the south of France. He was passionate about his climbing, technically brilliant, elegant to watch and inspired a way of climbing that was adopted by many. His climbing achievements are second to none but more than this prove he understood the value of life and of how fortunate he was to have found something he felt so passionate about. Although most of us would love to have pushed the limits of climbing like Patrick ,at the end of the day it’s not how hard you climb that matters, but hoRead More...
Moon Board T-shirt Competition
Okay now’s your chance to get both creative and on the front of a new Moon Board t-shirt!
We are currently working on some new t-shirt graphics and one of the ideas we are playing with is a montage of climbers Moon Boards. There are already some nice photos of your Moon Boards on the Moon Climbing website but we would like to see if you can do even better. The winning entries will get a free t-shirt and the glory that goes with being on the front of a Moon Climbing t-shirt. If you would like to give this a go you can use any of the following methods to send us your photos.
Upload to the Moon Climbing Facebook page.
Upload to the Moon Board website.
Email your files via the Moon Climbing website.
We don't have any special requests we just want good photos. They could be black and white or colour and could be with or without a climber, use your imagination but nothing that's going to ofRead More...
Although I might have been a bit slack in re-releasing my old climbing diaries, back in June and July of 1990 I was definitely not slacking. Fresh from my success on Hubble, the worlds first 8c+ my attentions have turned to the world cup leading comps in Spain and Italy in a few weeks time. After focusing on strength for the past few months it’s now time to work my endurance and on sight skills in preparation for the up and coming competitions.
24th June 1990
“Kilnsey. Warm up. Try Dreamtime. Fall. Do it second try. Bad weather, tried The Bulge. Fall near top. Felt good on it. Pumped out. Try redpoint, fall same place! Very greasy. Medium day”.
I vaguely remember this day, both trying and failing to onsight both these routes.
25th June 1990
“Filmed Hubble then pumped out hard. Body Machine, up and down Indecent ExRead More...
I was rooting around in my attic the other day and came across all my old climbing diaries that I started keeping towards the end of 1989. This gave me the idea that maybe we could make a regular feature of these dairies in the newsletters and Moon Blog, a kind of “what I was doing this time in…” I think some of you might find some of these entries interesting and if you don’t well, just hit the “unsubscribe” button!
So here is the first and it’s “this time in 1990…”
Coincidently it’s the build up to the first ascent of Hubble at Ravens Tor which became the world’s first 8c+ and has still onRead More...
Post 10. 10/11/2005
Back in rainy England after 5 rainy days in France. Surfed twice a day for 5 days and totally exhausted at the end. Not used to this kind of exercise. Felt like I had had a hard weight training session. Sore chest, triceps and elbows but had a good time for it.
Rested Saturday and Sunday and felt back to normal come Monday. Monday was gorgeous, probably best conditions all year. Straight back out on my project and made good progress. Did all the moves now just need to link them altogether. No more training until I have done it. Just got to wait for the good conditions.
Post 09. 29/10/2005
Had a crap session down the wall. Trained late which was a mistake and ended up being rushed. Not good.
Not going to be any more enteries for a week because I am off for a Surfing holiday! Diary will resume next weekend.
Post 08. 27/10/2005
Rest day yesterday and definately felt a bit tRead More...
1. Go somewhere new as much as possible.
Try a new foreign destination every year or visit a new crag every month.
2. Plan and motivate yourself.
Write down the routes or boulder problems you want to do over the next month, 6 months, year etc. Look at the next few months ahead and plan your climbing around heavy periods of work, family commitments, weddings etc. Don’t just hope that fitness will magically happen, so be realistic about how you can fit your climbing into your life. Plan that trip to Yosemite or Arapilies – make sure the dream comes true.
3. Hang out with motivated people who have the same approach to climbing as you.
The people you climb with will have such an influence on your climbing. When you meet new people ask them questions about great climbs, crags, foreign destinations – get psyched. Get a training partner and go for it. When you’re at the crag, talk to strangers – you never know you migRead More...