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Showing 17 to 24 of 647 posts

Back in the days!

  • 24.09.2013- by Ben Moon
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During these months I was able to travel a lot with my friends and with my family. In particular in August I spent ten days in Briançon, because my brother Marco and I prefered to check new climbing cliffs instead of going as usual to Ceuse. We pratically climbed in three beautiful crags: -Face Bouc -La Saume -Rue des masques Face Bouc is situated in Ailefroide Valley, a great steep granite wall with fantastic routes. In one day I managed to climb three different lines here, I was very amused! The easy routes to the very left of the crag were all in the sun so I decided to warm up on Cambonne Beurre 7a+ but when I arrived at the anchor I realised that this was wrong way to start the day because I felt quite pumpy and "locked" but after a great rest I felt OK. The second route was Fiaschi Natique 7c+ just on the left of CambonneRead More...

Smells like Alpine-Spirit

This year I started my outdoor season in Gorge du Verdon. After one week of multipitch-climbing every boulder, and every sportsclimb felt simply like a joke (not because I was too strong, but because of the height).  So this summer, as I got injured at my finger too, I was in the perfect mood to try alpine routes.As I spend most of my „climbing-career“ in bouldering and sportsclimbing it is pretty exciting to climb in an alpine area as Rätikon.Already after 2 days there, I found a „new“ passion. Over the years I got stronger in climbing, but never went seriously to alpine stuff. And u can believe me: it’s like starting climbing again (at least on the first days).Just few days ago I had to lead my first route – from the bottom to the top. Hell, u can not believe how proud I was about myself not starting to cry and getting more and more used to climb mostly all parts „just“ with my feet. It was amazing to see, how small the „holds“ and how flat the steps can be – Read More...

New Area in Rocklands, SA

I’m sitting in the garden in front of the Lorraine farmhouse in the middle of one of the world’s best bouldering destinations during northern hemisphere’s summer. Yes, you’re right – I’m talking about Rocklands, South Africa and I’m having a rest day today, not only because it’s freakin’ hot, but also because my mate Kili had his 30th birthday last night. Needless to say we’re not in the best condition today. It’s been 4 years since I came here for the first time and even though the amount of dirt roads has declined substantially, it is still a great place to be. In the main season (June to August) however, the crags around the Pakhuis pass tend to get really crowded and since I already climbed many of the classic problems on my last visit, I was psyched to discover new areas. Luckily, some friends of mine felt the same and we started searching for new problems in all directions. You see tons of rock lying around all over the Cederberg mountain rangeRead More...

A week in Magic

  • 24.08.2013- by Ben Moon
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Magic Wood, one of my favorite places in the world. Good bouldering and the most stunning forest you'll ever see in your life. I had mixed goals in Magic, on the one hand I wanted to do some eight degree boulders, but on the other hand I wanted to push my level a bit and work in New Base Line (8b+). Working in an 8b+ and try to send multiple 8's isn't an option in just one week. I've discovered that I have a hard time projecting a boulder over multiple days if the time is limited. If I have for example a month and there is now time pressure I have no problems with longer projects, but if I am on a short trip the urge to have some quick successes usually has the upper hand.   Besides this urge to have some quick sends, it was warm in the forest. Not just a bit warmer than usual but more like boiling hot. On the other hand it only rained a few times in the evening. So we were lucky with the weather, it was just impossible for me to try New Base Line. Instead I did some other vRead More...

Came back in the Crush Mode!

  • 10.08.2013- by Ben Moon
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In my latest months I spend my “Climbing time” in Gressoney Valley, in a cliff called La Benedizione that is In my opinion the best crag in Aosta Valley. All the routes are completely natural, crazy rock and it is situated in a special place, near a big waterfall and mountain meadows

My project this year was Devils and Dust 8a+ that as the most lines here is downgraded so I spend 4 days of hard work to get the chain. The First day I tried the whole line to figure out the right beta but I felt the two cruxes really hard and I seemed to have no chance. The route was such impressive so I was looking forward to try it again.

The days after I managed to link the two cruxes and to have good attempts aRead More...

Progressing backwards?

Not sure I have much to contribute with when it comes to hard sport climbing, in fact I think I have lees than zero to add as I'm such a mediocre climber. I'm outright lost in the world of pulling hard. Last year I spent an enormous amount of time redpointing an 8a+ and yes I'm happy I sent it but not overwhelmed with joy. After that ordeal I promised my self I would go for volume and not spend more than two or maximum three tries on any thing this year. How ever I have two routes in Tre Cime I like to pull off this summer and they both go free at 7c+ and 8a with multiple 7b to 7c pitches. So I figure I need to get some max power in me and not just stamina. Now this redpoint swampland is hard to get out of. When I start to invest time and effort in to a route its kind of becomes important to send it. How come? What is really the point of climbing half a grade up or down? EGO! Its all about ego I guess. For me the process of trying harder routes are actually both demotivating and depreRead More...

Dominion Riverrock

Two months ago, I scrambled to learn enough genetics to let me scrape by on the final, cram my dorm room into four cardboard boxes, move all the cardboard boxes out of the room, and tie up all the loose ends associated with finishing up one's first year of college. The next day, I scrambled to gather all my clothes and climbing gear, hitch a ride to Denver International Airport, and get through not one, but two thorough security checks and an extremely bitchy security guy (generally what happens when you put a weight vest in your carry-on luggage). Yet through all the chaos, I wasn't even flying home. I was flying in to Newark Airport in New Jersey, where we'd spend a night at our friend Anna's house, then make the three-hour drive (which ended up being a six-hour drive due to traffic) to Richmond, Virginia, for the one and only RIVERROCK FESTIVAL and Boulder Bash comp! Which just so happens to be one of if not the most innovative and mainstream comp around. [caption id="attachment_Read More...

Summer wishin'

Four months have past since really good physical form and climbing conditions. In Ticino, springtime brought great succes and then I almost realized a long time project Bügeleisen in Maltatal. I was sooo close back there. Did it in two parts, quite easily actually. But afterwards bad weather started and everytime I came to Maltatal, Bügeleisen was wet, or at least the most important hold. So, I missed my chance. But after that, I really couldn't do a lot about it. My wife and I started to renovate our home in Slovenia and time started to fly ... without climbing! Well, almost. Still, I get the need for climbing, but knowing that there's 30°C outside, baby skin on my fingers and don't get me started on my physical shape. From time to time I go route climbing just to maintain my strength, at least I try to. There are times when I just want to go to, I don't know, Magic Wood maybe; still got some great lines to finish there. I always get so psyched when I see a clip of a beautifuRead More...

Showing 17 to 24 of 647 posts