Post 10. 10/11/2005
Back in rainy England after 5 rainy days in France. Surfed twice a day for 5 days and totally exhausted at the end. Not used to this kind of exercise. Felt like I had had a hard weight training session. Sore chest, triceps and elbows but had a good time for it.
Rested Saturday and Sunday and felt back to normal come Monday. Monday was gorgeous, probably best conditions all year. Straight back out on my project and made good progress. Did all the moves now just need to link them altogether. No more training until I have done it. Just got to wait for the good conditions.
Post 09. 29/10/2005
Had a crap session down the wall. Trained late which was a mistake and ended up being rushed. Not good.
Not going to be any more enteries for a week because I am off for a Surfing holiday! Diary will resume next weekend.
Post 08. 27/10/2005
Rest day yesterday and definately felt a bit tRead More...
Come Blood, sweat and tears, there are still the foolish few that persist on following the torturous training articles kindly offered by Moon. Fortunately, or unfortunately, depending on how your tendons react, we have more trade secrets to offer, revolving around the use of Bouldering Walls. Throughout the next few articles, not only do we intend to offer specific exercises and a variety of routines, we also aim to include tips and advice on how to use a bouldering wall effectively.
Surprisingly, bouldering is not only socially accepted fun, it is also one of the best training aids available. Accompanied by the likes of systems training and circuit training it is possible to reap huge rewards from going to the local boulder wall, so huge in fact even an old ‘has been’ like Ben can still manage to improve. Yet amongst the benefits this type of training can worryingly be fun, interesting and communal.
Nowadays, the expanse of the indoor climbing wall industry allows all but thRead More...
Building a Moon board is a fairly simple job, however you will need basic carpentry skills, Basic tools and a minimum of two people. The information in our downloadable PDF is just a guide to how we built our board, however it may vary a great deal depending on your surroundings and building structure.
It isn’t necessary to support your moon board exactly as we have, but it is essential that you use the same measurements for the angle of the board, height, width and T-nut spacing etc. If you have any doubts regarding your board and its structure please seek professional advice. Whilst our information worked for us, we cannot accept responsibility if your board becomes unstable or dangerous.
Download Moon Board PDFRead More...
The Campus board was first designed and built by the legendary Wolfgang Gullich in the late 80’s. He desired a training apparatus that would help him gain the required strength to make the first ascent of Action Directe 9a in Germany’s Frankenjura.
When designing the campus board, Wolfgang was looking for an apparatus that could be used to improve explosive power and contact strength in the fingers and arms. It was also important that it incorporated simple yet specific movements which were found on many of the harder climbs in the Frankenjura.
It wasn’t long before the idea of the campus board caught on amongst the world’s elite, including the likes of Ben Moon and Jerry Moffat. These climbers added campus sessions into their strict training regimes back on English soil in the early 90’s. Nowadays, the campus board is a common piece of equipment seen in climbing gyms all around the world. They are used by a vast amount of climbers of all abilities to help improve climbRead More...
Core body - the missing link
Your core body, not just your tummy muscles, the whole area from below your shoulders to your hips, is vital in climbing. The ability to activate these muscles not just on steep climbing but on off vertical too can make all the difference.
Your legs need to be able to operate as a separate system to your upper body. Some women who have had children and come back to climbing often exclaim at the feeling of having no middle! We are not talking about flexibility here. Flexibility will enable you to get your body into useful climbing positions, but it’s often your core which will maintain the position. When you get tired and you want to get your leg up high, if your core isn’t good, a natural reaction is to pull even more on your arms, just what you don’t want to do. It needn’t only be on steep ground when these types of problems kick in.
Having a good core will mean you will cut loose less and if you do you will be able to getRead More...
Endurance: Put simply having endurance means you can climb forever without getting too pumped so that you fall off. It also means that you can do a hard section of climbing, get pumped but have the ability to recover on a big hold on steepish ground for the next section. Generally an endurance route will have many, many moves but none are particularly hard. In order to climb in this manner oxygen feeds the muscles in the forearms to produce energy. It can also be referred to as aerobic capacity.
Examples: In the UK we have few pure endurance routes. Classic endurance fests abroad are Lourdes 8a (Spain – 40m sport route) the Enduro corner on Astroman 5.11 (Yosemite 40 metres of the same lay back move), generally a lot of overhanging tufa Spanish routes. In the UK think ‘The Strand E2 (Gogarth – continuous climbing, with no definite crux), Supercool 8a+ (Gordale – 35 metres of climbing with the crux at the top, but a few good rests on the way). Note: pracRead More...
We all know simply going climbing is the best way to improve and also probably the most fun. But being British it isn’t always possible to climb outside and sometimes, due to hectic lifestyles, it’s not even possible to have a few hours down the local wall on an evening.
If I have just described your lifestyle or you are incredibly motivated then thank your lucky stars that God (or more likely some once ripped old man wearing Lycra) found the time to create what is known as a fingerboard. A fingerboard allows those with little time, or a lot of motivation, to improve their finger and arm strength without the need to take over half of their house building a decent sized woody. A fingerboard fits nicely above a doorframe, or on to a beam in the garage or loft, therefore not looking an eyesore, which could quite possibly cause severe hassle with the partner who doesn’t climb, subsequently leading to several nights spent alone on the sofa.
Even better, a beneficial fingerboard Read More...
I recommend that each dead hang lasts between 5 and 8 seconds. You certainly wouldn’t want to hang on for any longer than 8 seconds. If you can, then the hold is too big. Sometimes, however, you will have a hold that you can only hang for 2-3 seconds. This is not a problem since you can measure your progress against this. For example if you can only hang a hold for 3 seconds, keep training on this hold, after a few sessions you should be able to hang for 4 seconds and after a few weeks possibly hang for up to 5 or 6 seconds. Seeing this kind of progress in your training will keep you motivated which is the key to success.
I have given a rough idea of resting times, sets and reps. I recommend that you alter rest times etc to suit your own personal needs. The idea is that you rest just enough to recover for the next rep/set, but not too long so as to waste the efficiency of the workout. If you need to vary the resting times it’s no problem. ItRead More...