What is training?
by Rich Simpson
Training for climbing is any activity where you intend to specifically improve your climbing ability with a goal in mind, it can be anything from jogging 20 minutes 3 times per week to losing weight and increasing fitness for a summer trip to Pembroke or the Alps, to very intense campus board sessions.
Love it or loathe it, the term training is associated with losers who spend all there time in the gym, never climb on the real thing and don’t understand what climbing is all about. If this is you attitude, then you just keep plodding along but don’t be surprised when your mate who you taught to climb the previous year begins to burn you off out on the crag. The choice is yours, make excuses why you don’t climb a grade or two higher, or do something about it.
Obviously training is very varied, in terms of volume and intensity and can be anything from one day per week for a beginner to 5 days a week for a world-class [...] Read More...
We've started getting some interesting feedback on the Moon board from differnt corners of the globe, so we thought we'd post it here. If you've set up a Moon board of your own and have some pics of the board in action and some thoughts you'd like to share then send them in to us.
"Hi Ben! It’s Jonas from Malmö, Sweden. The wall is a smash hit but we need to get used to the steep angle and the very small holds, where are the jugs?! Everybody in our gym finds the problems very hard and physical. The 6C and 7A with the undercut crux are thought to be sandbags, but then again they have a very specific move on them so who knows? The two 7C’s are fine creations and we are working on them at the moment. When is your forum coming up, it would be nice to chat with you and others alike about the problems".
Jonas in Sweden
"Hallo everybody, I have received yours sets of climbing holds. They look phenomenal and magically designed! Thank you very much for fast [...] Read More...
and set of School Holds which will hopefully make life a bit easier all round. Rather than setting one problem at a time, this method puts the full set of holds all on the board at the same time in a random position. Then we have set problems on this grid from 6c up to about 8a which can all be climbed without moving a hold. For these problems you only need the grid ref on the sheets below. Not rocket science but just a more traditional way of setting problems. More sheets will follow in this manner. Let us know how you get on and send us some problems based on these setups if you spot any alternatives you consider worth a bash.
We have set up 2 new sets of problems 05 & 06 and for those of you with 2 sets of School Holds we have combined problems 05 & 06 into 1 uber set of problems!
November 2007:>DOWNLOAD SCHOOL PROBLEMS SETUP 05.PDF (40KB) Read More...
Power or strength is one of the most talked about things in climbing. No climber can ever have enough strength and believe it or not its one of the most important things when attempting to push your grade. There are hundreds of ways to attempt to improve strength, some work well and some not so well, and others are pure myths. One thing is for certain, you will always get out what you put in, and so if you really want to get stronger then it’s for sure possible.
Throughout the Moon articles we aim to include several different methods for improving climbing specific strength, which will transfer onto the rocks or plastic. We intend to include detailed articles with advice on improving strength in all areas of the body, especially:
- Finger strength
- Arms and shoulders
- Body, body tension and core conditioning
To improve strength in these areas of the body we will include detailed explanations on using the following training equipment:
- Campus Boards
- [...] Read More...
The jargon-free realistic principles of organising your climbing year
Before you begin periodising, capillary training, campusing, deadhanging or thinking about how much your one rep max weight should be, there are some basic ways to think about how to plan your year without having to open text books and dictionaries to understand the nuts and bolts of training.
Have you ever planned your climbing year before? Do you often find yourself 2 weeks before a dream climbing trip to the Gorge de Tarn snowed under with work and completely unfit? Did you actually know in advance that work would be so busy then? Did you have a goal of climbing E2 but realised that you were only ever going trad climbing for one weekend out of 4 so it never happened and you’re worse than the year before?
Now is a good time, before you become clouded by mince pies and never ending supplies of Roses chocolates in the office, to have a think about 2007, to try and plan ahead to make the best use of your [...] Read More...
Post 10. 24/03/06
After returning home from Spain on Monday 20th March the first thing that struck me was just how miserable British weather is compared to the continent.
Obviously I haven't been super keen to train this week. Tuesday was spent resting and I did an easy session after work on Wednesday at the Birmingham climbing wall just to get back into plastic and training again.
I was supposed to be training Thursday but unusually for me felt unmotivated so took a rest day with a view to training on my board on Friday.
Post 09. 17/03/06
A Muerte 8c+/9a
El The route i climbed is about 20 metres long. It starts with a nasty one finger pocket, on a wall that overhangs about 25 degrees. You climb 10 long moves on pockets up to a bulge (so far about french 8b or 8b+) then straight into a very very long move to the side from a slopey, shit 2 fingered pocket. This leads into another 2 fingered pocket (thank god for my Action Directe [...] Read More...
The School Set
With the help of World Class boulderers Malcolm Smith, Rich Simpson and Ben Moon we have designed a set of holds that will simulate climbing on rock. Our main goal was to make holds that were smooth on the skin yet had enough friction to pull on the smallest of holds and were good for warming up and warming down but most importantly represented the type of grips which are required for climbing outside.
The School Set, as it is known contains a huge variety of holds, from tiny crimps to large jugs and all have been extensively tested. However not only do you get a set of holds when you purchase a set of Moon School holds you also get a endless list of boulder problems from font 5+ to font 8c to keep you going for a lifetime.
>Click here to buy the School Set from our store Read More...
Stretches Lower Body
Generally when climbing, unlike the upper body the lower body isn’t worked so hard physically therefore it isn’t necessary to stretch the lower body with aiding recovery and warming down in mind. However in climbing, the lower body is required to make a huge range of weird movements and hold different positions, therefore it is important that flexibility is worked within this area to achieve a wide range of movement.
Here are some exercises that I use on a daily basis to improve my flexibility.
Static Stretches1. Calf Muscles
The calves are probably one of the most used leg muscles in climbing, especially in slab climbing since a lot of your body weight is transferred through this muscle. To help prevent stiffness and muscle cramps when on long and difficult slab climbs it is important to [...] Read More...