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Moon Blog / Contributor / admin

Showing 25 to 32 of 645 posts

European Youth Bouldering Championships

In the previous weekend, on the 25th and 26th of May, the European youth bouldering championships were held in Switzerland. The competition was located amongst mountains in the city called Grindelwald. Right after I finished my exam on friday the 24th I drove directly to Aalborg airport, flew to Copenhagen from where I continued to Zürich with my friend, Alexander. We arrived in Zürich at 19:35 (pm), and we had to continue our travel by train to Bern and afterwards to Interlaken Ost (in danish that sounds exactly like the translation of “a plate of cheese”, and after having had a very long day with both exams and long flights, we were both so exhausted and tired, that we were overly amused every single time the name of our destination was called up on the speaker. People must have thought we were completely retarded.) From “Interlaken Ost” we had to go by bus, to finally arrive at Grindelwald. At that time it was almost midnight. However, we were lucky that we lived only 1Read More...

Quick visit to the forrest

  • 28.05.2013- by Ben Moon
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Another short visit to the forest, unlike last time the forecast looked stable. My intentions were to have a few sessions in the Island. But those plans quickly evaporated when I warmed up on the first day. Conditions where 'summer like', not good for slopers but very good for chilling out. The first day we started at Rocher Guichot, a rather nice area that I never visited before. I briefly tried Le Bossu de Notre-Dame 7c+/8a. A nice boulder but not the best choice, sticking a sloper in the sun is hard when it is 23 degrees. I'll come back to finish this one for sure. We escaped to Rocher Gréau.

I wanted to try Le Toit du Gréau 8a, a north faced roof problem without slopers. That one felt hard, I couldn't even do the first move. Luckily the first move was the crux, the following moves still felt hard but not as vicious as the first. I doubted if I could do this one within a few days. In the evening I checked some video's Read More...

Climbami 2013

The idea of Climbami comes from a group of climbers who want to bring back the streetboulder in Milan and raise awareness of climbing to as many people as possible even outside of our circle. I thought to participate as a spectator, but Gianluca (Moon Italia) has the brilliant idea to try and show what the moonboard is and he proposes a small contest.  

On behalf of Gianluca and his staff, Andrea Zanone and I were asked to organize the first contest in Italy on a moonboard.I'm used to organize competitions, but a contest with such a small panel had several unknowns...After a few weeks of developing the concept we depart to Milan: Gianluca, Andrea aRead More...

Three... Two... One... PUMPED!

  • 12.05.2013- by Ben Moon
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The Winter season is over and now I focused my time on sport climbing, in these months I visited some nice crags like:

FRACHIAMO (Italy)

CLARO (Switzerland)

CINEPLEX (Italy)

St LEGER and MALAUCENE (France)

FRACHIAMO:

I decided to go to this new crag for me because a friend of mine bolted and opened a new route called THE JOKER graded 8a and advised me to try it.

My brother made ​​the first try to understand the right holds sequence and he explained me the moves, so I decided to do a strong flash go but I failed it because I fell on the last move of the crux, I was happy anyway for my performance and I focused my mind immediately for the second attempt, after a good rest I climbed really well, without mistakes completing the route, and making the second ascent. I used a different beta thanRead More...

Font with a cripple

ALL PICTURES BY: Bart van Raaij

Bart van Raaij needed a ride to Font, he had to work on his new 7+8 guidebook but his ankle was broken. The forecast looked a bit grim but we decided to take a gamble. It was nice to have a (semi) local guide me, Bart knows the best boulangers in Milly and he knows exactly what pastries to choose. We started the day with a noisette and a lemon merinque pastry. And...against the odds the weather stayed good all day. We did some bouldering in 95.2, looked for some hidden problems, went to Buthiers, did some more boulerRead More...

March in Font

Due to the bad weather my trip to Fontainebleau in Februrary left quite a bitter taste, but fortunately March offered another opportunity to visit the marvellous forest south of Paris. Thats how I happened to enjoy three weeks of Fontainebleau with a motivated group from Innsbruck. It wouldn't be Font however, if the weather wouldn't show itself to be moody, with hail, rain and snow (again), which cut the climbing days down to 12. I wanted to do a lot, and my ticklist was really long – of course way too long for Bleau :-) Still I managed to climb some very beatiful problems, like „Appartenance 7c“, „Dosage 7c“, „Noir desir 7c“, „Supplement d'armes (stand 7b+ and assis 7c+)“ and „Nemesis 7a“. Additionally I made good progress in some projects, and so the motivation to return is huge! Following a short video of the trip with some problems like „La rampe“ 7a; „Supplement d´armes“ 7b+ ; „Manolo“ 7c; „Verdict“ 8a und „Noir desir“ 7c.  Read More...

Competition month

April has been a really busy month for me - but in a good way! I’ve contested in different national and international competitions in all but one weekend of this month. All competitions were bouldering comps.   On the 6th of April I brought my strongest junior girls near Copenhagen to a city called Lyngby to contest in this year’s first round of the danish bouldering competition called Bloc Comp. The competition consisted of a qualifying round and of course the finals. With twelve out of thirteen possible tops, most of them flashes, I was in the lead position for the finals. On the first problem in the final round I made a huge mistake. Not just one of the sloppiness alike “oh why did I just crimp that hold when it's much better as a pinch?” climbing related or technical mistakes, but one of those big, big fails that one simply can’t do during a bouldering final. Completely distracted by whatever, I went out to the first problem in the final. I placed both hRead More...

Teneriffe

Me and my boyfriend Gu spent nearly the whole February in Tenerife for rope climbing and bouldering. Meanwhile Gu was focused on bouldering, I spent most of the time for rope climbing – and this is one of the best things about Tenerife: If there is a rope-climbing area, there is always a bunch of Blocs lying around wait to be climbed in its perfection. Gu was as usually super quick with repeating all boulders and he did so many first ascends that I was already after one week scared, he could get bored, BUT “fortunately” he found this super project witch wasn’t climbed for more than 10 years – although there were a lot of strong people trying it. Meanwhile he was spending time on that project, I couldn’t get enough of all the rope climbs. There are so many areas with a lot of routes from steep to totally overhanging and there is endless potential for new routes and clean climbing (because of all the cracks). The only problem for me about Tenerife was – getting resting dRead More...

Showing 25 to 32 of 645 posts