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Showing 25 to 32 of 647 posts

Swizzy update

After several weeks of routesetting I could finally take some time off in the end of July for bouldering outdoors. Due to the routesetting I had less energy and skin on the fingertips, but the motivation to touch the rock again was huge. Despite the bad weather forecast we decided to make a quick visit to the world famous bouldering crag “magic wood”. My last visit dates back to 2009, and fortunately the forest didn't loose anything of its magic and the boulders are still incredible. The camping is overcrowded and leaves mixed feelings, but you're actually there for the bouldering.

I had to find my way back on the rock, but surprisingly I managed to climb some problems like “Astronautenfieber 8a”, “Body count 8a” and “Sukkubus 7c+” in a few tries and managed to do flash ascents of “Jack the chipper 7c”, “Foo fighters 7b+” and some more problems up to 7c.

It's always suprising what works from time to time Read More...

School's Out!!

So I finished my exams in the end of May and after some busy weeks with moving into a new apartment I am FINALLY climbing on rock again! Although this summer is not going to be spent in any particular exotic climbing location I am very happy to be out on a climbing trip again. This year I decided to spend the summer in Norway. Since I’ve spent the last two summers in Rocklands I decided to take it a bit easy this year and simply check out some of the many nice climbing areas this county has to offer. There is not too many places that offer cool enough weather during summer, many places in Europe are very wam, but in Norway the ideal climbing season is April/ May to August/September. So now me and my boyfriend are driving around by car and climbing wherever the weather is nice! We started off near our hometown (Trondheim), bouldering at Fosen at the two main areas called Vingsand and Harbak. This is a very popular climbing destination for climbers from all over Norway, and also strRead More...

European Youth Bouldering Championships

In the previous weekend, on the 25th and 26th of May, the European youth bouldering championships were held in Switzerland. The competition was located amongst mountains in the city called Grindelwald. Right after I finished my exam on friday the 24th I drove directly to Aalborg airport, flew to Copenhagen from where I continued to Zürich with my friend, Alexander. We arrived in Zürich at 19:35 (pm), and we had to continue our travel by train to Bern and afterwards to Interlaken Ost (in danish that sounds exactly like the translation of “a plate of cheese”, and after having had a very long day with both exams and long flights, we were both so exhausted and tired, that we were overly amused every single time the name of our destination was called up on the speaker. People must have thought we were completely retarded.) From “Interlaken Ost” we had to go by bus, to finally arrive at Grindelwald. At that time it was almost midnight. However, we were lucky that we lived only 1Read More...

Quick visit to the forrest

  • 28.05.2013- by Ben Moon
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Another short visit to the forest, unlike last time the forecast looked stable. My intentions were to have a few sessions in the Island. But those plans quickly evaporated when I warmed up on the first day. Conditions where 'summer like', not good for slopers but very good for chilling out. The first day we started at Rocher Guichot, a rather nice area that I never visited before. I briefly tried Le Bossu de Notre-Dame 7c+/8a. A nice boulder but not the best choice, sticking a sloper in the sun is hard when it is 23 degrees. I'll come back to finish this one for sure. We escaped to Rocher Gréau.

I wanted to try Le Toit du Gréau 8a, a north faced roof problem without slopers. That one felt hard, I couldn't even do the first move. Luckily the first move was the crux, the following moves still felt hard but not as vicious as the first. I doubted if I could do this one within a few days. In the evening I checked some video's Read More...

Climbami 2013

The idea of Climbami comes from a group of climbers who want to bring back the streetboulder in Milan and raise awareness of climbing to as many people as possible even outside of our circle. I thought to participate as a spectator, but Gianluca (Moon Italia) has the brilliant idea to try and show what the moonboard is and he proposes a small contest.  

On behalf of Gianluca and his staff, Andrea Zanone and I were asked to organize the first contest in Italy on a moonboard.I'm used to organize competitions, but a contest with such a small panel had several unknowns...After a few weeks of developing the concept we depart to Milan: Gianluca, Andrea aRead More...

Three... Two... One... PUMPED!

  • 12.05.2013- by Ben Moon
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The Winter season is over and now I focused my time on sport climbing, in these months I visited some nice crags like:

FRACHIAMO (Italy)

CLARO (Switzerland)

CINEPLEX (Italy)

St LEGER and MALAUCENE (France)

FRACHIAMO:

I decided to go to this new crag for me because a friend of mine bolted and opened a new route called THE JOKER graded 8a and advised me to try it.

My brother made ​​the first try to understand the right holds sequence and he explained me the moves, so I decided to do a strong flash go but I failed it because I fell on the last move of the crux, I was happy anyway for my performance and I focused my mind immediately for the second attempt, after a good rest I climbed really well, without mistakes completing the route, and making the second ascent. I used a different beta thanRead More...

Font with a cripple

ALL PICTURES BY: Bart van Raaij

Bart van Raaij needed a ride to Font, he had to work on his new 7+8 guidebook but his ankle was broken. The forecast looked a bit grim but we decided to take a gamble. It was nice to have a (semi) local guide me, Bart knows the best boulangers in Milly and he knows exactly what pastries to choose. We started the day with a noisette and a lemon merinque pastry. And...against the odds the weather stayed good all day. We did some bouldering in 95.2, looked for some hidden problems, went to Buthiers, did some more boulerRead More...

March in Font

Due to the bad weather my trip to Fontainebleau in Februrary left quite a bitter taste, but fortunately March offered another opportunity to visit the marvellous forest south of Paris. Thats how I happened to enjoy three weeks of Fontainebleau with a motivated group from Innsbruck. It wouldn't be Font however, if the weather wouldn't show itself to be moody, with hail, rain and snow (again), which cut the climbing days down to 12. I wanted to do a lot, and my ticklist was really long – of course way too long for Bleau :-) Still I managed to climb some very beatiful problems, like „Appartenance 7c“, „Dosage 7c“, „Noir desir 7c“, „Supplement d'armes (stand 7b+ and assis 7c+)“ and „Nemesis 7a“. Additionally I made good progress in some projects, and so the motivation to return is huge! Following a short video of the trip with some problems like „La rampe“ 7a; „Supplement d´armes“ 7b+ ; „Manolo“ 7c; „Verdict“ 8a und „Noir desir“ 7c.  Read More...

Showing 25 to 32 of 647 posts