There is lots of different playgrounds in climbing, and every playground requires not only different skills but also a different attitude towards it. First of all there are high walls, walls where you can´t just rappel in a single turn, walls to feed the little adventurer in you.
Further there is bouldering, the purest and most simple way to challenge yourself on a piece of rock. Then the ordinary crag climbing for the sporty spice in you. These walls can be the opposite of ordinary, when you discover them for the first time and every route is new and exciting to you.
Further you have the option of cleaniRead More...
There is my routeprojekt around salzburg which I tried over and over again last year. Everytime I drove three hours one way, hiked up in the hope of dry holds, visualized the moves in certain appropriate and inappropriate situations, avoided party friends and too many beers at nights out and yet I failed. I failed over and over again. I knew all the moves, all the tricks, everything my body needed for the send, but in the end it didn't happen. The snow covered the surface of the beautyful landscape in a glittering white coat, which marked the end of the season. Time to let go.
Too weak? Of course, as a climber you always feel like an extra amount of newtonmeter would be fine. But I could do the crux moves, I could get there without being waisted ...
Bad conditions? I repeatedly cut of my fingers on the cruxedge, but there were the good days, the sticky days, the no blood days, when everything was fine and the humidity was low and temps below zero, so... not that excuseRead More...
Ramasuri is a German word for excitement, chaos, confusion, tohubohu, mess, unrest, riot, jumble... All the sweet things we are a little scared about, but at the same time we need and adore as a counterdraft to the output-driven and comprehensive covered life we live.
Ramasuri ist also the name of a legend 8c+ Loskot route that worked my mind and fingers
I am superstoked because of the sudden winter here in austria. The last two days the coldness and the friction were incredible here in eastern austria. So I put the rope away and prayed, for the rain to wait a little, so that I could try some hard stuff.
I was lucky with the weather so I managed to climb one of my 'most wanted' boulders: "Barry White" 8b+ bloc
On the last try of my second day my
fingers stuck just a little bit better to the rock so that I could do the first repetition of this beautiful peace of rock.
Thanks to Micha Vanhoud for the boulder, and to my great spotters and shouters.
I just love the part of the video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OdWSxkWUYw8 is, when my bro flo scheimpflug jumps before the camera, right at the crux sequence just to get another cover shot done :D
During the winter month snow covered the austrian alps and makes them even more beautiful. In the morning hours my skis were launched almost every day. The evening hours I found myself in the surrounding gyms for some serious training or some other, not so serious, monkeying around. :)
In the beginning of april my outsideseason starts with a nice eastertrip to cataluna spain, where I could climb the fivestarroute 'Paper Mullat' 8b+/c in oliana. The 45 meter of tufapumping took me three days. It was quite challenging, considering the sixmoveplasticbouldershizzle I was used to.
Great time, great crew, great routes... cataluna is dope :)
Back in Vienna I started bolting some new projekts I am currently working on. Nice steep and not so steep limestone in styria :). In between the rain I catched some good conditions for my propably hardest slapclimb to date: 'himmel ohne wolken' 8b (hard to great) the 20 meter slap affords a lot of rubber and nerves. Another nice 8a firstascent isRead More...
December climbing is kind of a love-hate-thing to me. At home it is freezing cold or the projekt is covered with snow, or it will be covered the next day. As the afternoonclimber that I am, the daylight allowes a maximum of four climbinghours and telling people about my minus-ten-degrees-afternoon-doing leaves usually a feeling of pitifulness and incomprehension. So in order to get a proper smalltalk about my afternoondoings running, I need to change something. I could pretend: I had some lonesome fourhourswalks in the snowcovered forest around my hometown, ...'you know, just to get closer to my chi or something'
Option number two was to act accordingly to the conditions and drive somewhere else to get some nice climbing done. Somewhere people will understand. Somewhere the finger stick to the rock and the evershining sun fill the hearts with warmth and the muscles with agility. (ok, ok, now it starts getting really cheese)
Before I sticked to option two, I had a beautyful climbingRead More...
Since years travelling is a big part of the climbing game for me. I have to admit, that I am some kind of an addict, when it comes to climbing trips, exotic rocks and stuff like this. But honestly: Let the climber who is without sin cast the first stone. Climbing trips are boss!!
My small addiction goes along with some nerdy habits that used to get more intense during the years. For example the runningoutofmoney-month that occurs to be October, or the scrubs like fade ways whenever I see rocks in the back of a travel advertisement showing the usual 'almost naked girl in front of a landscape' -subject. Mostly the fadeaways are because of the rocks and me visualizing my fantasy’s doing the craziest new wave climbing hit on this very beautiful very innocent rocks far away from home and mankind.
My people at home get some kind of surreal when I actually get to see them without staring into a screen. My attention fades to zero when someone tells me that: 'the Routes at home are the Read More...