I recently watched a few buddies having good time on the Moon Board and it was great to see them getting so hooked by this small piece of wood, despite everything else our gym has to offer.
It reminded me of period almost two decades ago when the system boards where smaller than the standard Moon Board. At the time it was our only indoor training tool. There were bunch of them on different locations in Split and we trained on them like crazy.
Most of the time I spent at Joke Purko's place whose board was super fingery and with best collection of home made wooden holds. I remember a hard 30-40 move problems we climbed standing on the same footholds because the board was so small that we could reach nearly all the holds without moving our feet.
At Zlodre board we were wild and loud. This board was definitely more sophisticated. It had option to change the angle of the overhang and it was the first board in Split with few modern Lapis holds bought in Slovenia.
This summer I started to work on Vukowar project, the one of The Big Four, while the half of the line was still wet. I worked the route in a very structured sessions, usually doing laps on critical parts and climbing them in very precise style and slow pace, almost like doing french blow on every single move in a row. I know it is modern to go fast like Ondra these days but I still like to work on moves in a slow style and than just add some extra speed when I go for real.
Anyway, I knew there will be just a small time window when the route will be completly dry and I worked like a maniac to get fit and confident for that moment. It was true. Vukowar got dry and it lasted for just around 2 weeks, but it was enough. I was totally prepaired and I did FA in literally first real try. It is always a great feeling and privilege to climb such a special lines but since I often emotionaly connect with them I cant escape some sorrow oncRead More...
Few weeks ago I reached number of 99 FA´s around my local sports climbing areas. My friend told me that number 100 should be some special line and I surely liked that idea.
I definitely don`t have problems with finding great projects, more likely I have problems with climbing them. For example here is the list of special four which I have been working on these days. They are all top quality, beautifull and entirely natural lines. Also they are more or less close to my max limit and probably this is why I can hardly imagine ever to climb all of them.
On the other hand limits are relative and life would be boring without the big ideas so...here is the list:
1) INTO THE WILD / Omiš
It starts with a 6b warm up pitch and than right away transforms into 50 degrees overhanging monster for the next 15m. After bolting it I couldnt even locate the holds and imagine moves between them. Now, I am on the next level which means that I can clearly recognize Read More...
“I like to be in the nature, away from man made structures of plastic, that just don´t inspire me.” – wrote once Chris Sharma and perfectly described his but also mine attitude towards climbing indoors. My outdoor oriented character blessed with nice climate and so much rock around the place I live shaped my climbing style. I learned how to climb good on rock but remained relatively weak in physical aspect.
For a climber like me winter season has always been reserved for climbing out as much as possible but this time it turned into complete opposite direction- building our new gym. So ironic at first, but in fact far from that.
This new climbing gym is becoming the masterpiece of the generation. To imagine such a training spot in Split some years ago would be like science fiction. In town where southern easy going life style is stronger than anything, showing such an enthusiasm and team spirit, working hard and building something so ahead of all this region ever Read More...
Last few months turned into totally unexpected direction. I was just starting to feel light and strong when something snaped in my righ middle finger during one gym session. I already had problems with tendon sheets from time to time but this was something different and I immediately knew that I ruined few months of good training and will have to start once over again.
So instead climbing outside on the premiere Dalmatian limestone in cool autumn conditions I ended up indoor on physiotherapy sessions at my friend Goran Vratarić. He treated my finger with microwaves, magnet, ultrasound, massage and we included elbow into the sessions since it hurted from time to time due to 2mm calcification I had on right medial condil.
In the meanwhile my climbing club Marulianus finally signed rent contract for the place where we will build our new climbing gym. It is a huge project and once finished this will surely be the biggest climbing gym in Croatia. Beside great boulder area etc. , tRead More...
As I promised in the last blog - I took my first longer out of climbing period since 1996.. Didn't climb for more than 2 months but there was a lot going on so I didn't feel like it was proper rest. Still not sure is it because I became father recently (!!!) or maybe I just don't know how to rest.
In the meantime I accepted invitation to become the chief coach of the Croatia youth sport climbing team. It will be hard to find free time for all the work I have to do on this position (specially because I allready work full time on another place) but since for many years in a row nobody have the idea what to do with all those talented Croatian kids, I decided to give a try. Hope we can make some progress in the next 4 years and steer all those young guns in the right direction.
Allready on my first climbing days after rest I felt that conditions are getting worse. Summer was justRead More...
One more winter season is officialy closed. Spent it mainly on area Markezina greda - the homeland of great lines and hard climbing.
It was long time ago since I stopped couting days spent on project known as Prvomajski zajeb. Although in the beginning it felt nearly immposible, from the moment I fell in love with this line, there was no way back. I invested unlimited amount of time and energy into it and last autumn I started to feel significant progress. Finally I reach the level to give serious attempts and was very pleased about that.
On 27th of January I did 4th ascent of superclassic Il Marattoneta (8b+) in Paklenica, Croatia. It is famous, historic line and one of those which name speaks thousand words. I saw it first time in 1997., 10 years after Maurizio Zanolla Manolo did his epic first ascent and in period when route still didnt have any repeats. It looked unreal good, just like today and I was impressed by Manolo’s vision of the line. Altough I was 15 year old boy and didnt know much about climbing, I was sure this is kind of routes I want to climb and search for.
In the following years I gave all energy to develop my climbing skills while Marattoneta saw first repeats by Slowenian aces Perko and Lukič. I took my chance to try it few times but couldn't offer much more than checking the moves.
Last year we met again and I felt I was ready to climb it but summer temperatures and humidity shut me down. This is why I decide to come back in clear and cold winter days, my favorite part of the year. The daRead More...