Omiš is one of my favorite climbing areas through the warmer part of the year. This small town is situated in a place where river Cetina enters the Adriatic sea and is completly surrounded by limestone walls. Sounds perfect and it really is.
This canyon is my massive inspiration and I feel creative rush every time I am there. Altough there is long climbing history in Omiš and many sport and classic MP routes, I am sure that some of the best sectors are still untouched. My opinion is that development of the areas was too often motivated by the approach parameters instead the quality of te rock. This is why Omiš still has so much potential. Only thing that makes me sad from time to time is the fact that there are just few other people who experience this area in the way I do. Definitelly would be great to feel team spirit more often but surely it wont change my motivation.
Few years ago Dani Piccini and me started to develop first of those distant sectors – the mighty Perivoj Read More...
Last two years I was working as a teacher for children with special needs. I had some temporary contract but it ended kind of suddenly at the beginning of the May. Since I had information that school will probablly offer me a new contract it wasn’t hard to accept the new situation. It was perfect chance to become PRO climber for the first time!
After few days of sleeping late and chilling out more than usuall I decided to focus on Prvomajski zajeb the project I am dreamin about and see how it will go. This route is one of the best lines on Markezina greda and it is placed very high on my personal life ticklist. Last year I have tried it seriously for the first time and after few sessions I solved all the moves. Immediately it was clear that linking the whole thing will be tough issue and honestly in that moment I wasnt sure if I will be capable of doing it?
To answer this question became my ultimate goal! Highly motivated and in solid spring conditions I quickly repeatRead More...
Sandra and I just came back from boulder paradise – Prilep in Macedonia. We spent 10 days there but it felt like 3 weeks because it was hilarious 24 hours a day.
The development of Prilep started about 4-5 years ago when some Slovenian aces climbers decide to check the postcard/google earth rumours about a potential world class bouldering area in Macedonia. They probably never thought it would be as good as it was. This place is smaller version of Hampi in the middle of Balcan – yellow granite paradise in the hills above Pelagonian plain.
Our stay in Macedonia was a real adventure. No guidebook, no tick list, just cruising around with pads, brushing and climbing new lines, repeating old ones, having fun, laughing the whole day. Maybe my imagination is not so strong but this simple climbing life is really the best thing I can imagine. I am sure this place will become very popular in the future. The climbing community is searching for new frontiers full of potential Read More...
A few word from a climbing holiday in Istria. We had great time despite the weather. It was exciting to meet strong and motivated Austrian crew responsible for the development of so many great routes in this part of Croatia. The energy and passion of people like Gerhard Hoerhager really left a deep impression on me.
After a few days of effort and when the start tufa finally got dry, I manage to redpoint Hard sun (8c), one of the hardest lines in Kompanj. I did it two days after team buddy Bernie Fiedler and I must mention that we both did it in our green moon oversized logo shirt which can't be accidentally!
Anyway, this might be my first 8c but honestly I think it is at least one grade easyer. My current physical level “after Christmas” and time spent on the route goes in favor of this idea. Since it is rather new route the grade will surelly settle in the future.
Anyway, less than month ago I celebrated 30th birthday and decide to buy myself new Hilti TE-A22. I allready chRead More...