[caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="715"] After waiting all day at Ticino for "Insanity" to dry without success; change of program: Walk up to Sustenpass, 2000m above sea level, 1st of Dezember; "Highlander-Project", 0:30AM, 0C, very windy, COLD, climbing into the last move again...[/caption]
It looks like it just does not matter what i try and when i try... i can make my way up to the last move(s) of any of my lifetime projects, at -2C or at +20C... in the dry... in the wet... but just don't send... either it's too cold, i am too tired, too rested, too.... "something"... and then i suddenly start falling off the first move.... then every other move and then fighting up to the last one again... to go down on that as well... but i am working on the "something" - and i will get to that top(s)... sooner or latRead More...
And another one of the multiyear-projects down - it was one of the oldest undone projects left in Brione - happy times - could get used to that :)
First Ascent of "NIKE, 8B+", Brione, Switzerland. Pic by angelawagner.ch
There was a lot of rain
lately and many of the visiting "cracks" escaped Swizzy or went to Mellobloco. But then weather in Swizzy is pretty unpredictable. Out of the nowhere we got a short window of crazy foen-wind that dried everything in a few hours and pleased the climbers with some of the best conditions ever!!!
Well the headline says it all doesn't it?! If it does not for you, then you may like to read the following story of a climbing journey that began back in 2005 at Sustenpass, Switzerland.
A long journey has come to a happy (se)end.
Nine years ago some friends and I were working on the classic "Traumland, 8A" at Sustenpass and I was wondering if there would be a possibility to a sitdownstart to the boulder left of it which has the lovely name of "Pitbull". My friends dismissed the possibility. I had an idea but never really went on to try because it seemed just wayRead More...
That’s WHY I climb - it can't get much better!!! Imagine a massive 12m long 80degrees overhanging granite-prow, heel/toe hooks, funky/tricky, and powerful compressions-moves all the way to the top -“Sanoku” - in Ticino - never ever seen something like that - never ever had climbed so many good moves in a row!!! It is pure perfection from the sitdownstart to the top. For a compression-fanatic like myself it’s just the Holy Grail ;) Thanx so much to Andi and Fabian for putting up that boulder!
First day I had a nice session with Fabi and Andi. It was great to get all the tricky beta for once instead of spending hours/days by my own looking for a good solution. After getting a cold and some snow went down in Ticino I was back two weeks later. I still could not believe how good the climbing was. And as I like(d) it so much I just had to "climb" it three times in a row ;)
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Even a master in the "Art of Failure" sometimes gets something done. Even it's "just" a lowdown start to an existing problem, it does complete a nice line and it is always good to come back and do something you have not been able to do before :)
After I was snowed out from Sustenpass some nice "Fön-Wind" was forecasted for Chironico. I have not been climbing in Chironico for over a year so I was very excited to touch this nice gneiss again. After a full day of work I was back in Chironico at for the first time after my injury - the first time after over one year. It was a pity it was already dark (7pm) but friction felt great. I wanted to have a lock at "Insanity of Grandeur, 8C" on which I was very close as it still was a project. I warmed up on the "Electric-Ant" boulder. There is a nice little line on the right side of it which I did the FA two years ago. Back then on my FA of "A cat on a hot thin roof" I started sitting but quite stretched out. So I was wondering if it may woulRead More...
2day “epics" are well common these days where everything seems to be (has to be) "second go, 5min, soft...". One could think that after 3days with no success some people's climbing life starts to fall apart... what if there are not enough points for the season... falling back in the ranking is NOT an option... crisis... disaster... OMG... funny little combing world ;)
While it can be really fun to climb something pretty quickly - I really enjoy much more the process of testing my physical and mental limits - to dive deep into the microcosms of moving on rock. This year was season 10 up there at the highlander project. And it was the third season in a row where I managed to go down on the last move of my highlander project. Over the last two weeks I could feel how I got stronger and stronger and after going down on my way to that last hold I did really hope for one last chance. Just one more day!
After some snowy days weather turned good and warmer again - just in time before wRead More...
After my "super-close-no-send" of the highlander-project in mid july I was off to Indo for some surfing and it was a great time. Life was very simple: surf, eat, sleep - nothing more, nothing less. It was good for my body to let my knee and hamstring heal and good for my mind as well!
Style is everything... ;)
Back home in swizzy I was greeted by rain but the next daRead More...
The temps have dropped, trees get colored and start to loose leaves, snow has fallen in the mountains - fall has arrived. So its time to have a quick look back what summer was like.
The start of the summer was bitter but the second half was pretty
sweet. Coming back from an 8month rehab period after my hamstrings surgery and feeling strong as never before (due to some “serious” training for which I had time as I was not able to climb outdoors) I managed to split (pretty badly) my meniscus on my left knee.