The season at sustenpass started well this year. After coming home from South Africa I quickly got in really good shape and was making good progress on my "highlander-project".
In between I tried a project to the left which I was not able to finish up last year. After some days and falling once on the last move I was able to link this really cool and big moves and the "keinschneehasi" was born. Grade is hard to choose as its super morpho. For my size it felt like in the 8B/+ area, if you are taller you can use way easier beta, if you are ondra its may just 8A ;) but whatever grade, super cool climbing, I think it will become a classic!!!
pic 1: crimping for the FA of "keinschneehasi, 8B/+"
for over six years every summer something went "wrong" - but this summer i finally made it down to south africa to visit the "new" boulder-paradise: "rocklands".
at first it seemed all the promises were true: most of you know the stunning pics of the "rocklands" but you have to witness it with your own eyes. driving direction clanwilliam and over the pakhuis-pass, i could just not believe what i saw: the landscape, the rock and the never ending horizon of africa just blew me away and it never stopped to amaze me during my over four weeks stay. it happened for about ten times a day that i was just standing out there, glancing into the landscape in pure disbelief of its beauty and solitude...
but there was not just "gold" down there. here is the "dark-side" of rocklands:
you have to pay to go climbing, climbing is sharp like hell and you will look out for gloves the first day you arrive (if you have not the skin of an olifant), everything looks super cool, but the climbing can bRead More...
The summer was knocking on the door and i knew i had not many days left down there in chironico. Finally after 7weeks of falling on the very last move i managed to figure out the very last micro-beta-detail for the "fisch-project". After a painful week of wating for the rain to stop i was back down on the second dry day. And there it was, the perfect go!!! Everything went like it was suposed to and i had no power left for even more move when i did the rockover of the mantle. Thats how it feels when you climb on your limit -it was just perfect ;)
A long journey has come to a good end. After more Read More...
"No Mystery" (low) in Chironico (FA afte the broken crux-crimp)
"No Mystery" located in Chironico (Swizzy) is a nice littel overhanging shild first climbed by Dave Graham back in time. It has two nice intro-moves that set you up to a big deadpoint-move from a lousy crimp to a good rail. Followed by some very nice top-out moves.
Late last year/beginning this year a crux-crimp broke. I had a quick look and it looked like a great new puzzle to be solved. So after having great fun with another puzzle (climbing "Souvenir" wihout the pocket) i made my way to "No