Summer holiday 2013
The summer closure of Checkpoint climbing village compels us to a long process of maintenance of the routes of all the gym .. So come 110 new boulders and over 30 routes.
In the meantime, we made a visit to the Briançonnaise area , which is just over two hours from home, and we climbed at La Saume with MOON Athlete David who with great enthusiasm and sympathy took us on a wonderful day of climbing ! I was in great shape and decide to groped for an "on sight" on the beautiful and long ( 38mt ) "petite danseuse " 8a + . After an initial long mouve from a wet hold, a long and stressful struggle on small holds but supported by Elena and David cheering.. I could not fall off and yes I got it!
Back to work for a few weeks in the gym, then we left for a long awaited holiday .. The first destination was " Ceuse" who for the last 20 years has given me great emotions ...
Here the days are marked by a slow pace .. You have to wait for the conditions in the cool Read More...
March 27, 2013
In November 2012, one night in the gym friend Gian (Tesio), talking about where to go climbing, I noticing a line still to be climbed.
I was looking at "boulder" that collapsed some 80 years ago. This route was bolted by Renato Delfino and Guido Cortese. Much to my surprise no one had climbed this majestic route. I decided to go and try, but thanks to the adverse weather I soon I forget the project and had surgery on my right shoulder .
After the rehabilitation, I was quite surprised to progress quite fast on the route as I worked it.
The route is beautiful! Its quite complex and physical climbing . Be safe as you clip the last bolt as you can hit the deck if you are not careful... (bring a crash pad!)
After the first giuornate study of the way, I decided to stay for too cold heading toward another project Finale more winter and sunny .. but the first mild days and decided to try again on the first day (Thursday) coming close to climb up in a almost perfecRead More...
Two weeks of rainy weather don't leave any crags dry enough for climbing ... Here in northern Italy right now we have to take refuge in the gym...
At Postodiblocco Climbing Village we organized the penultimate stage of the most important winter bouldering circuit in northern Italy, TCC (Torino climbing challenge) and we had a record attendance with 230 climbers of all levels and ages facing numerous boulders prepared for the occasion by route setter Matteo Gambaro.
In the Top categories numerous young and strong athletes showed a very high level and the event was a great success. The finals were very exciting with spectacular boulders whit only one top out and a clear winner!
While waiting for the weather to improve so we can return to the projects outdoor we stay in the gym...
Finale Ligure is a beautiful place to climb, but the line is often very painful for the fingers and slightly overhanging. Here at last is a good news that is still waiting to be climbed!
A huge boulder fell eighty years ago from a quarry has remained incredibly poised offering a possible crossing boulder style, but his fifteen meters of development and the growing complexity require a great strength!
The line is called "U Beccu" in the local dialect means "beak", given the curious shape of the rock ..
We hope to resolve it soon!