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Moon Blog / Contributor / moon-climbing

Showing 9 to 16 of 594 posts

Progressing backwards?

Not sure I have much to contribute with when it comes to hard sport climbing, in fact I think I have lees than zero to add as I'm such a mediocre climber. I'm outright lost in the world of pulling hard. Last year I spent an enormous amount of time redpointing an 8a+ and yes I'm happy I sent it but not overwhelmed with joy. After that ordeal I promised my self I would go for volume and not spend more than two or maximum three tries on any thing this year. How ever I have two routes in Tre Cime I like to pull off this summer and they both go free at 7c+ and 8a with multiple 7b to 7c pitches. So I figure I need to get some max power in me and not just stamina. Now this redpoint swampland is hard to get out of. When I start to invest time and effort in to a route its kind of becomes important to send it. How come? What is really the point of climbing half a grade up or down? EGO! Its all about ego I guess. For me the process of trying harder routes are actually both demotivating and depreRead More...

Dominion Riverrock

Two months ago, I scrambled to learn enough genetics to let me scrape by on the final, cram my dorm room into four cardboard boxes, move all the cardboard boxes out of the room, and tie up all the loose ends associated with finishing up one's first year of college. The next day, I scrambled to gather all my clothes and climbing gear, hitch a ride to Denver International Airport, and get through not one, but two thorough security checks and an extremely bitchy security guy (generally what happens when you put a weight vest in your carry-on luggage). Yet through all the chaos, I wasn't even flying home. I was flying in to Newark Airport in New Jersey, where we'd spend a night at our friend Anna's house, then make the three-hour drive (which ended up being a six-hour drive due to traffic) to Richmond, Virginia, for the one and only RIVERROCK FESTIVAL and Boulder Bash comp! Which just so happens to be one of if not the most innovative and mainstream comp around. [caption id="attachment_Read More...

Summer wishin'

Four months have past since really good physical form and climbing conditions. In Ticino, springtime brought great succes and then I almost realized a long time project Bügeleisen in Maltatal. I was sooo close back there. Did it in two parts, quite easily actually. But afterwards bad weather started and everytime I came to Maltatal, Bügeleisen was wet, or at least the most important hold. So, I missed my chance. But after that, I really couldn't do a lot about it. My wife and I started to renovate our home in Slovenia and time started to fly ... without climbing! Well, almost. Still, I get the need for climbing, but knowing that there's 30°C outside, baby skin on my fingers and don't get me started on my physical shape. From time to time I go route climbing just to maintain my strength, at least I try to. There are times when I just want to go to, I don't know, Magic Wood maybe; still got some great lines to finish there. I always get so psyched when I see a clip of a beautifuRead More...

Swizzy update

After several weeks of routesetting I could finally take some time off in the end of July for bouldering outdoors. Due to the routesetting I had less energy and skin on the fingertips, but the motivation to touch the rock again was huge. Despite the bad weather forecast we decided to make a quick visit to the world famous bouldering crag “magic wood”. My last visit dates back to 2009, and fortunately the forest didn't loose anything of its magic and the boulders are still incredible. The camping is overcrowded and leaves mixed feelings, but you're actually there for the bouldering.

I had to find my way back on the rock, but surprisingly I managed to climb some problems like “Astronautenfieber 8a”, “Body count 8a” and “Sukkubus 7c+” in a few tries and managed to do flash ascents of “Jack the chipper 7c”, “Foo fighters 7b+” and some more problems up to 7c.

It's always suprising what works from time to time Read More...

School's Out!!

So I finished my exams in the end of May and after some busy weeks with moving into a new apartment I am FINALLY climbing on rock again! Although this summer is not going to be spent in any particular exotic climbing location I am very happy to be out on a climbing trip again. This year I decided to spend the summer in Norway. Since I’ve spent the last two summers in Rocklands I decided to take it a bit easy this year and simply check out some of the many nice climbing areas this county has to offer. There is not too many places that offer cool enough weather during summer, many places in Europe are very wam, but in Norway the ideal climbing season is April/ May to August/September. So now me and my boyfriend are driving around by car and climbing wherever the weather is nice! We started off near our hometown (Trondheim), bouldering at Fosen at the two main areas called Vingsand and Harbak. This is a very popular climbing destination for climbers from all over Norway, and also strRead More...

European Youth Bouldering Championships

In the previous weekend, on the 25th and 26th of May, the European youth bouldering championships were held in Switzerland. The competition was located amongst mountains in the city called Grindelwald. Right after I finished my exam on friday the 24th I drove directly to Aalborg airport, flew to Copenhagen from where I continued to Zürich with my friend, Alexander. We arrived in Zürich at 19:35 (pm), and we had to continue our travel by train to Bern and afterwards to Interlaken Ost (in danish that sounds exactly like the translation of “a plate of cheese”, and after having had a very long day with both exams and long flights, we were both so exhausted and tired, that we were overly amused every single time the name of our destination was called up on the speaker. People must have thought we were completely retarded.) From “Interlaken Ost” we had to go by bus, to finally arrive at Grindelwald. At that time it was almost midnight. However, we were lucky that we lived only 1Read More...

Quick visit to the forrest

Another short visit to the forest, unlike last time the forecast looked stable. My intentions were to have a few sessions in the Island. But those plans quickly evaporated when I warmed up on the first day. Conditions where 'summer like', not good for slopers but very good for chilling out. The first day we started at Rocher Guichot, a rather nice area that I never visited before. I briefly tried Le Bossu de Notre-Dame 7c+/8a. A nice boulder but not the best choice, sticking a sloper in the sun is hard when it is 23 degrees. I'll come back to finish this one for sure. We escaped to Rocher Gréau.

I wanted to try Le Toit du Gréau 8a, a north faced roof problem without slopers. That one felt hard, I couldn't even do the first move. Luckily the first move was the crux, the following moves still felt hard but not as vicious as the first. I doubted if I could do this one within a few days. In the evening I checked some video's Read More...

Climbami 2013

The idea of Climbami comes from a group of climbers who want to bring back the streetboulder in Milan and raise awareness of climbing to as many people as possible even outside of our circle. I thought to participate as a spectator, but Gianluca (Moon Italia) has the brilliant idea to try and show what the moonboard is and he proposes a small contest.  

On behalf of Gianluca and his staff, Andrea Zanone and I were asked to organize the first contest in Italy on a moonboard.I'm used to organize competitions, but a contest with such a small panel had several unknowns...After a few weeks of developing the concept we depart to Milan: Gianluca, Andrea aRead More...

Showing 9 to 16 of 594 posts