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Moon Blog / Contributor / moon-climbing

Showing 25 to 32 of 594 posts

My First Open Nationals

The title says it all. ABS Open Nationals 2013. Only the most stacked comp in the country. How the hell did I end up here?   Well, once upon a time, there was a climber named Galina who decided she wasn't going to do Youth ABS this year because she was a complete idiot and didn't realize she actually had a chance of making the US Team but completely blew it due to her inability to make decisions. So she decided to do Open Nationals instead. Not because she thought she could win or place or anything, but because she thought it would be a good experience. Which it was. Worth every penny of the $185 entry fee. Also it took place in the Colorado Springs auditorium, which is about 5 minutes from campus. I'm not going to go through and describe Read More...

Winter Part 1

The winter didn’t start in the best of the ways this year. Maybe because of personal engagements, that kept me in my home area...

Maybe because of the terrible weather conditions we have had the last three months in Italy... Lets call them a series of unfortunate circumstances. :)

To be honest, there had been a few days of good weather at the beginning of the year. In my constant search for new lines in the area of Vitorchiano, I decided to emphasize two lines with two different stories. The first one was an old project that I called Dt. Manhattan, a nice roof with moves on very slopy holds. I fell off at least 30 times at the last hard movement. It was very hard to find the right sequence for hands and feet, the grade should settle on Fb 8A. Amaka was not born but rather reborn a problem so beautiful that I wanted to redo it. The grade should be around Fb 7C.


Winter Part 1 Video


JIBS: Ends and Beginnings

JIBS. Junior Indoor Bouldering Series. This competition will always hold a special place in my heart. There's just something about woody walls, old greasy holds, incredible setting, and the whole community vibe that the Philadelphia Rock Gym creates every year. If I couldn't climb at Prime Climb anymore, this would undoubtedly be my gym of choice. I almost didn't make it this year, mainly due to the fact that I'm in Colorado Springs and Philadelphia is about 1,671.2 miles away. Yet somehow all the cards aligned, and on February 7th, I found myself on a plane headed to La Guardia in New York, racing to beat Nemo, the due-to-be snowstorm of the century. Fortunately, I was able to book an earlier flight, which conveniently gave me more time to study for my Russian final. And we spent two nights at our New Jersey family’s house (at least the closest we have to family here in the States). Qualifiers were smooth sailing, as usual. I ended up finding a bunch of crimpy 700s and 800s toRead More...


Imagine you´re scrambling through the undergrowth for a while than you turn around a big boulder which seems to be like any other one (and there are thousands) and there it is! What looks like just another high quality boulder, which is not that untypical for this area, turns straightforward into one of my favorite boulder problems of all time. Basically the whole setting of the problem is just overwhelming. The boulder is surrounded by high mountains with snow on there peaks and lies between many other rocks which are thrown together in a narrow valley. Nobody would expect such a perfect landing in this chaotic block field, but it is like that. It´s sand like in Font! At first sight you think it´s a smaller boulder problem until you start to check out the moves and now you realize that it´s bigger than it looks. The holds are perfect and exactly at the right position. It´s a phenomenon that´s not only with this problem, but for me on Heritage it´s obvious. If there would be Read More...

Crash pads,Chalk and Boulders!

Just after Christmas Holiday, I focused my "climbing time" on bouldering because the temperatures were too cold for sport climbing. I decided to visit some good bouldering spots with my brother and some friends.

The first place we visited was Donnas, in Aosta Valley where we and a lot of people are discovering and brushing lots of good new problems. I had two boulders in my mind Klettermachine 8a and Mucca Pazza 7c+. I started trying Klettermachine because I did the "Stand start" in fact I had to link just the first one move to complete the full boulder. After 30 minutes of work I climbed all the moves and I was super satisfated! Klettermachine is done, It's Mucca pazza time! :D

I had some problems understanding the moves of Mucca pazza, because it's really powerfull boulder composed of five moves on bad slopers and funny toe/hell hooks, COMPLETLY MY ANTI-STYLE! I needed two days of hard work to figure out all the moves and then I CrRead More...

Sometimes you simply have to believe it

Compared to my trip to Fontainebleau in November 2012, where I injured myself on the second day, the first week of this trip went rather well. The weather was kind and from Sunday on we had nice weather. Especially on the first few days it was still obvious that there had been a lot of rain the two months before and it was very humid, which didn't help for good friction.

We climbed a lot of parcour problems and didn't spend a lot of time on special problems. Additionally to the easier problems I could also repeat some harder problems in the first four days like the traverse “Coccinelle” on the fourth attempt, the strange “le mandarin” and “Vague patatras” also on the fourth go. As the temperatures were freezing (down to -3°C with wind) we only spend little time in the forest, as it was just unbearably cold.

On the weekend the weather god changed his mood, it was snowing, raining and foggy. The forecast said there woRead More...

Red River Gorges

Last autumn with a big team of friend and some of the best french climbers (Mickael Fuselier, Nina Caprez, Cedric Lachat, Florence Pinet, Gerome Pouvreau…) we all heeded out went to Red River Gorge the famous sandstone cliff in Kentucky before going to Argentina and participate in the Petzl Roc Trip. As you can all imagine we had a blast. The place is amazing and really lives up to its reputation! The rock quality is just amazing and very fun to climb on. What I appreciated was the fact that there are so many different styles of climbing. Long rout very steep or vertical line with crimp. The first days are little difficult and you need to be very humble to get use to this very physical and different style of climbing compared to what I'm used to from the area around Briançon with its particular style !!! But when you adapt it’s fantastic to climb on all the sectors. Its magic to be in the « mystic » woods. RRG is a good spot for every one as there are many routes iRead More...

From dirt grows flowers / 8c

And the video! From dirt grows flowers / 8cAnd the video!
From dirt grows flowers / 8c

Showing 25 to 32 of 594 posts