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Moon Blog / Contributor / simon-weill

Showing 9 to 16 of 16 posts

Recently...

The best thing about being a school teacher is the proximity of your next break. Never more than 11 weeks before a (minimum) two week holiday is a pretty sweet gig, even if you have to deal with everyone's precious/precocious adolescents in the interim. Today is day one back at work and already holidays have receded to a misty past, something that appears in my head as a cheap flashback scene reminiscent of an old episode of Kung Fu. Luckily, however, the holidays were an absolute blast shared with good friends, great weather and some sweet new blocs. The Grampians is an area that just keeps on giving. You can still find world class blocs within a 20minute walk from a tourist carpark that have never been touched by human hands before. Most require little cleaning and the variety is astronomical. Over the past 3-4 weeks myself and some of my friends have managed to put up around 30-40 new problems, mostly in the 7b+ - 8a range, with a few moderates and a couple of bullet hard [...] Read More...

The Taken

It's always good when you attain something that you have lusted after, something that has made you sweat a little, something that has had you lying awake obsessing over. For me, that was my new problem, The Taken. I don't usually spend a lot of time on a particular problem, once I can do the moves, it's usually only a matter of one or maybe two sessions before for the business is done. That's my MO and that's the way I likes it. But, this sucker was different. I did the power crux in a session, a weird lock off move on the right hand up to a 'no hold' with the left. Move your feet over and dead point sideways to a jug. Take the tension and then begin the scary bit. Unfortunately, it didn't go according to plan. The sequence I had for the top came unstuck pretty quick. Cranking hard on a pebble, I skidded off, only to leave the entire pad of my middle finger resting on the hold. Two weeks and a bunch of fretting later and I was back to it. I knew that I couldn't face trying to do [...] Read More...

Silver Linings

Well, it can't always be sending projects in perfect conditions I guess. But this is starting to get a bit silly. It has been the wettest winter in living memory in the Grampians and for those who are mostly restricted to the weekends, like myself, it has been more frustrating than I could have imagined. I feel like I'm back living in Sheffield, rather than Australia... I have managed to get a few things done and keep things ticking over, but since returning from Squamish, it has been 6 soaking weeks and the only days of good weather didn't really go according to plan. I have recently returned to an area discovered a few years ago to seek some new lines and with new eyes have discovered some primo problems. I have spent a fair bit of time on a rope cleaning and practicing sequences. I managed the FA's of a couple of great problems, including an awesome highball that I brushed up a couple of years ago. This went at about 7c with a heart stopping top out above just one spotter [...] Read More...

Reality Bites

As it is with all great things, my Canadian adventure has ended. And, I'm back at work. Guess how excited I am about that. Correct answer: not very... So, here is what I liked about Canada: The people; really genuine, kind and considerate with a sense of humor not unlike Australians, especially catching up with friends, both old and new, The food; easily the best sushi I have ever had, no challenge, and cheap, The beer; Amazing micro-breweries, especially my all time favorite La fin du monde, still the best, Lake Culture; Finishing a day's climbing and then heading to a pristine lake, surrounded by trees and mountains, for a dip is a sweet way to wind down for dinner, The Climbing; Endless boulders in an epic setting, short walk ins, great shapes, longs days of crushing, The Squamish Adventure Center; my own personal hangout, great coffee, cool staff and a pretty rad view of the Chief, plus free wi-fi. And, of course, here is a thorough list of what I didn't like about [...] Read More...

Squamish

Well, after a couple of 10 hour flights and a layover in the smog capital of the world, Shanghai, I arrived in Vancouver. Gordo, aka the Gord, totally hooked me up, collected me from the airport, sorted me out with a van for my stay and delivered me straight to the blocs, well almost, we had to stop for coffee. Feeling a little west, due to the substantial time difference I decided to start off with an easy day and just get my eye in. This lasted for about ten minutes before I was dragged up to check out Mantra 7b+. After doing this in a few goes, the team assembled and we worked our way through the boulders, a throng of tiny specs against the imposing and impassive Chief, as it Read More...

Injuries

Living the life of a climber is not always endless days out with friends in perfect weather, doing your projects one after the other and discovering new areas with each outing. Unfortunately, well for me anyway, in order to improve and take the next step, I need to train, regularly. Now, I don Read More...

Back to the Blocs

Well holidays have come and gone and it's back to the grindstone, but what a fabulous break it was. Scootsy, my best mate from Sydney, came to visit for a week and the old partnership was back to its best in no time. Random calculations, epic table tennis matches and a spot of drinking seemed to be the norm for the trip. Oh, and I almost forgot, a little bouldering in the Grampians thrown in for good measure.  

  Photo: The Princelings, 7c   We visited a few new areas, including Bundaleer and a place called Wallaby Rocks. Both good in their own way, but neither enough to sustain a proper assault, that is, returning week after week [...] Read More...

Back in the harness

Dealing with the blues upon my return to Australia after my European sojourn was not easily done. Sub zero temps and crushing new blocs was awesome. Coming back to 35degrees and work was sub optimal. But, after deciding that I would do some routes this year there was only one thing for it, get amongst it and get pumped. The Grampians, located 3 hours west of Melbourne in the almost desert environ of Western-Victoria is one of the most amazing places to climb anywhere, but if its easy clip ups that you Read More...

Showing 9 to 16 of 16 posts