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Showing 1 to 8 of 49 posts

Summer road trip in the United States

In the past years, my bigger trips abroad have always been revolving around climbing. It was usually  about finding the right spot with the right conditions at that time and go for it. And it was great! Our passion is climbing and what's better than travelling to a foreign country to do so! On another hand, those trips never left room for anything else than the sport though, which also can be a bit of a pity sometimes when I look back. Mostly, I would be stuck in one place only - the crag and  the town (or village) you would stay or buy your groceries from. There have always been good intentions in the forefront of the trip, of what cool things you could go see on your rest days! Or even cut down some of the climbing days at the beginning/end to travel somewhere close, not for climbing! But in the end it never actually happened... On rest days you're always too tired and lazy to do any other than chill out and take care of your skin. And you won't be cutting the climbing days becaRead More...

First Ascent of "NIKE, 8B+", Brione, Switzerland

And another one of the multiyear-projects down - it was one of the oldest undone projects left in Brione - happy times - could get used to that :) First Ascent of "NIKE, 8B+", Brione, Switzerland. Pic by angelawagner.ch There was a lot of rain


lately and many of the visiting "cracks" escaped Swizzy or went to Mellobloco. But then weather in Swizzy is pretty unpredictable. Out of the nowhere we got a short window of crazy foen-wind that dried everything in a few hours and pleased the climbers with some of the best conditions ever!!!

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First Ascent of "Gepresster Hase, 8C", Sustenpass, Switzerland

Well the headline says it all doesn't it?! If it does not for you, then you may like to read the following story of a climbing journey that began back in 2005 at Sustenpass, Switzerland.

 

A long journey has come to a happy (se)end.

 

Nine years ago some friends and I were working on the classic "Traumland, 8A" at Sustenpass and I was wondering if there would be a possibility to a sitdownstart to the boulder left of it which has the lovely name of "Pitbull". My friends dismissed the possibility. I had an idea but never really went on to try because it seemed just wayRead More...

the relevance of the triviality in climbing and its conflict

There is my routeprojekt around salzburg which I tried over and over again last year. Everytime I drove three hours one way, hiked up in the hope of dry holds, visualized the moves in certain appropriate and inappropriate situations, avoided party friends and too many beers at nights out and yet I failed. I failed over and over again. I knew all the moves, all the tricks, everything my body needed for the send, but in the end it didn't happen. The snow covered the surface of the beautyful landscape in a glittering white coat, which marked the end of the season. Time to let go. So why? Too weak? Of course, as a climber you always feel like an extra amount of newtonmeter would be fine. But I could do the crux moves, I could get there without being waisted ... Bad conditions? I repeatedly cut of my fingers on the cruxedge, but there were the good days, the sticky days, the no blood days, when everything was fine and the humidity was low and temps below zero, so... not that excuseRead More...

A GoodYear

There are times around the Christmas period when I start to feel a little down. Now this is not because I am a sad sack who has no family or mates to pass the festive season with. Its more to do with the weather. Whilst you Northeners are passing the days in blissful conditions, sub zero, dry hands, sticky rock type stuff, it starts to get really hot down here in the So Hem. It's not unusual to have a Christmas where the mercury peaks at around 40degrees. In other words, it's terrible conditions for climbing. Now, it's bad enough that its fucking hot already, but to make matters worse, this year, for the first time in 7 or 8 years, I have to work all summer. So, not only do I miss out on climbing, I can't go travelling, I can't hang on the beach all day and party all night, Well I guess I can party all night, but fronting up to work hung over in your own restaurant all summer is probably not a great look, not to mention a shitty way to pass the days. So, yeah, I'm feeling a little low,Read More...

Santoku

That’s WHY I climb - it can't get much better!!! Imagine a massive 12m long 80degrees overhanging granite-prow, heel/toe hooks, funky/tricky, and powerful compressions-moves all the way to the top -“Sanoku” - in Ticino - never ever seen something like that - never ever had climbed so many good moves in a row!!! It is pure perfection from the sitdownstart to the top. For a compression-fanatic like myself it’s just the Holy Grail ;) Thanx so much to Andi and Fabian for putting up that boulder! First day I had a nice session with Fabi and Andi. It was great to get all the tricky beta for once instead of spending hours/days by my own looking for a good solution. After getting a cold and some snow went down in Ticino I was back two weeks later. I still could not believe how good the climbing was. And as I like(d) it so much I just had to "climb" it three times in a row ;) [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="549"]Read More...

Deja Vu

After a quick 15 hour flight from Salt Lake City-Chicago-Dublin and finally Paris, the once far away magical forest of Fontainebleau was within my grasp. I love returning to an area 10 years later for its as if I had never been, everything fresh and new but still so familiar, a bit of deja vu was clearly present. We snatched up our spiffy French car and hit the road, after sussing out our living sitiuation with a good friend the time had come to attack the precious boulders. Unfortunately the ever present moisture and dew had devoured the boulders and never seemed to evaporate. Climbing in Fontainebleau is by far one of the most technical styles of rock in the world, its also extremely temperature dependent. The conditions were completely horrible, and even the thought of projecting anything above the warmup grade was out of the question. It was fun for a day or two but after 3 weeks of the continuous let down, my mind began to go a little cuckoo. Nearing the end of our France advenRead More...

There is no third thing

  1 BERNHARD FIEDLER CLIMBINGTRIPARTICLE     3 BERNHARD FIEDLER CLIMBINGTRIPARTICLE 4 BERNHARD FIEDLER CLIMBINGTRIPARTICLERead More...

Showing 1 to 8 of 49 posts

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