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Showing 1 to 8 of 48 posts

First Ascent of "NIKE, 8B+", Brione, Switzerland

And another one of the multiyear-projects down - it was one of the oldest undone projects left in Brione - happy times - could get used to that :) First Ascent of "NIKE, 8B+", Brione, Switzerland. Pic by angelawagner.ch There was a lot of rain


lately and many of the visiting "cracks" escaped Swizzy or went to Mellobloco. But then weather in Swizzy is pretty unpredictable. Out of the nowhere we got a short window of crazy foen-wind that dried everything in a few hours and pleased the climbers with some of the best conditions ever!!!

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First Ascent of "Gepresster Hase, 8C", Sustenpass, Switzerland

Well the headline says it all doesn't it?! If it does not for you, then you may like to read the following story of a climbing journey that began back in 2005 at Sustenpass, Switzerland. A long journey has come to a happy


(se)end.   Nine years ago some friends and I were working on the classic "Traumland, 8A" at Sustenpass and I was wondering if there would be a possibility to a sitdownstart to the boulder left of it which has the lovely name of "Pitbull". My friends dismissed the possibility.

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the relevance of the triviality in climbing and its conflict

There is my routeprojekt around salzburg which I tried over and over again last year. Everytime I drove three hours one way, hiked up in the hope of dry holds, visualized the moves in certain appropriate and inappropriate situations, avoided party friends and too many beers at nights out and yet I failed. I failed over and over again. I knew all the moves, all the tricks, everything my body needed for the send, but in the end it didn't happen. The snow covered the surface of the beautyful landscape in a glittering white coat, which marked the end of the season. Time to let go. So why? Too weak? Of course, as a climber you always feel like an extra amount of newtonmeter would be fine. But I could do the crux moves, I could get there without being waisted ... Bad conditions? I repeatedly cut of my fingers on the cruxedge, but there were the good days, the sticky days, the no blood days, when everything was fine and the humidity was low and temps below zero, so... not that excuse [...] Read More...

A GoodYear

There are times around the Christmas period when I start to feel a little down. Now this is not because I am a sad sack who has no family or mates to pass the festive season with. Its more to do with the weather. Whilst you Northeners are passing the days in blissful conditions, sub zero, dry hands, sticky rock type stuff, it starts to get really hot down here in the So Hem. It's not unusual to have a Christmas where the mercury peaks at around 40degrees. In other words, it's terrible conditions for climbing. Now, it's bad enough that its fucking hot already, but to make matters worse, this year, for the first time in 7 or 8 years, I have to work all summer. So, not only do I miss out on climbing, I can't go travelling, I can't hang on the beach all day and party all night, Well I guess I can party all night, but fronting up to work hung over in your own restaurant all summer is probably not a great look, not to mention a shitty way to pass the days. So, yeah, I'm feeling a little [...] Read More...

Santoku

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Deja Vu

After a quick 15 hour flight from Salt Lake City-Chicago-Dublin and finally Paris, the once far away magical forest of Fontainebleau was within my grasp. I love returning to an area 10 years later for its as if I had never been, everything fresh and new but still so familiar, a bit of deja vu was clearly present. We snatched up our spiffy French car and hit the road, after sussing out our living sitiuation with a good friend the time had come to attack the precious boulders. Unfortunately the ever present moisture and dew had devoured the boulders and never seemed to evaporate. Climbing in Fontainebleau is by far one of the most technical styles of rock in the world, its also extremely temperature dependent. The conditions were completely horrible, and even the thought of projecting anything above the warmup grade was out of the question. It was fun for a day or two but after 3 weeks of the continuous let down, my mind began to go a little cuckoo. Nearing the end of our France [...] Read More...

There is no third thing

1 BERNHARD FIEDLER CLIMBINGTRIPARTICLE 3 BERNHARD FIEDLER CLIMBINGTRIPARTICLE Read More...

Consolation Prize

Even a master in the "Art of Failure" sometimes gets something done. Even it's "just" a lowdown start to an existing problem, it does complete a nice line and it is always good to come back and do something you have not been able to do before :) After I was snowed out from Sustenpass some nice "F Read More...

Showing 1 to 8 of 48 posts

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