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Showing 17 to 24 of 49 posts

Ötztal Sessions - FA of Robin Hood and more...

In the past view weeks spring has finally arrived here in Austria, the cold and snow has vanished of our valley grounds, uncovering the near by blocs in the Ötztal from their hibernation... I personally love winter for all it's beauty and pleasures it offers here in the center of the Alps, hiking up the mountains and ride powder really can catch up with climbing that's for sure! But at the same time I can't wait to escape the crowded and dusty gyms and go climb for real again as soon as the local crags are on.  

  It all started a couple weeks ago when I headed out oRead More...

Competition month

April has been a really busy month for me - but in a good way! I’ve contested in different national and international competitions in all but one weekend of this month. All competitions were bouldering comps.   On the 6th of April I brought my strongest junior girls near Copenhagen to a city called Lyngby to contest in this year’s first round of the danish bouldering competition called Bloc Comp. The competition consisted of a qualifying round and of course the finals. With twelve out of thirteen possible tops, most of them flashes, I was in the lead position for the finals. On the first problem in the final round I made a huge mistake. Not just one of the sloppiness alike “oh why did I just crimp that hold when it's much better as a pinch?” climbing related or technical mistakes, but one of those big, big fails that one simply can’t do during a bouldering final. Completely distracted by whatever, I went out to the first problem in the final. I placed both hRead More...

Isaac Caldiero 2nd ascent of Bovice 8a+

Here is a small piece of an amazing steep roof located in Southern Utah, hopefully it will cheer everyone up after the burglary, all the best and a big thanks goes out to Ben Moon for always making the coolest clothes and keeping us all psyched to do our best! VIDEO! http://player.vimeo.com/video/62778007  Read More...

Winter Part 1

The winter didn’t start in the best of the ways this year. Maybe because of personal engagements, that kept me in my home area...

Maybe because of the terrible weather conditions we have had the last three months in Italy... Lets call them a series of unfortunate circumstances. :)

To be honest, there had been a few days of good weather at the beginning of the year. In my constant search for new lines in the area of Vitorchiano, I decided to emphasize two lines with two different stories. The first one was an old project that I called Dt. Manhattan, a nice roof with moves on very slopy holds. I fell off at least 30 times at the last hard movement. It was very hard to find the right sequence for hands and feet, the grade should settle on Fb 8A. Amaka was not born but rather reborn a problem so beautiful that I wanted to redo it. The grade should be around Fb 7C.

 

Winter Part 1 Video

Read More...

Heritage

Imagine you´re scrambling through the undergrowth for a while than you turn around a big boulder which seems to be like any other one (and there are thousands) and there it is! What looks like just another high quality boulder, which is not that untypical for this area, turns straightforward into one of my favorite boulder problems of all time. Basically the whole setting of the problem is just overwhelming. The boulder is surrounded by high mountains with snow on there peaks and lies between many other rocks which are thrown together in a narrow valley. Nobody would expect such a perfect landing in this chaotic block field, but it is like that. It´s sand like in Font! At first sight you think it´s a smaller boulder problem until you start to check out the moves and now you realize that it´s bigger than it looks. The holds are perfect and exactly at the right position. It´s a phenomenon that´s not only with this problem, but for me on Heritage it´s obvious. If there would be Read More...

Crash pads,Chalk and Boulders!

Just after Christmas Holiday, I focused my "climbing time" on bouldering because the temperatures were too cold for sport climbing. I decided to visit some good bouldering spots with my brother and some friends.

The first place we visited was Donnas, in Aosta Valley where we and a lot of people are discovering and brushing lots of good new problems. I had two boulders in my mind Klettermachine 8a and Mucca Pazza 7c+. I started trying Klettermachine because I did the "Stand start" in fact I had to link just the first one move to complete the full boulder. After 30 minutes of work I climbed all the moves and I was super satisfated! Klettermachine is done, It's Mucca pazza time! :D

I had some problems understanding the moves of Mucca pazza, because it's really powerfull boulder composed of five moves on bad slopers and funny toe/hell hooks, COMPLETLY MY ANTI-STYLE! I needed two days of hard work to figure out all the moves and then I CrRead More...

From dirt grows flowers / 8c

And the video! From dirt grows flowers / 8cAnd the video!
From dirt grows flowers / 8cRead More...

New year in Font

With new year I was one week in Font, with some delay my thoughts about that week. It was good to finally touch some rock again, that was almost 6 months ago. With new year the weather can be tricky in Font, actually you never know what you're up to. At the beginning of the week we where 'blessed' with blue skies and lots of sun. 2012 had a nice ending, unfortunately that all changed in 2013. Where we began the week with blue skies, we ended that week with grey skies and rain. Well that's Font, nothing to do about that. And enough about the weather, climbers (me included) always complain about the weather ;) I wanted to try Gecko assis (8b+) this trip but due to bad conditions (oops complaining about the weather again, sorry) I had to change my plans. The first day I had a little dyno succes, finally I did La Puce (8a)! A nice jump in a steep overhang/roof that took me a long time to send. I tried it on multiple trips and always came 1 cm short of the jug, but not this time :) The sRead More...

Showing 17 to 24 of 49 posts

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