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Showing 25 to 32 of 49 posts

New 8B+ in Utah

After nearly three years of work battling through shit conditions and a lot of failure, I finally managed to get on top of a beautiful piece of rock that has consumed me and kept me up late for countless nights. Force of Nature was born on the afternoon of January 31st 2013. Although its not the hardest problem in the world it definitely ranks upon one of the hardest boulders in the west coast of the U.S. and may be the hardest done line in Utah. I gave it the personal grade of 8b+, it could be harder or easier for others, time will tell. Force of Nature begins by doing 6 sustained 8a/8a+ moves into a single 8b move. With the hardest move being at the end, it was extremely difficult for me to keep friction from the start into this move. I am so relieved to have finished this masterpiece of rock,, and can't wait for the next inspiring line to consume my next stage of life. Apart from my huge send, I have been focusing a lot of energy towards numerous F.A.'s of all grades. The future of Read More...

What an amazing year!

  Well, yeah. Every day of climbing is usually a good one. But this year was full of really good days. There was no other year I improved so much than I did this one. I really felt and still feel the progress in climbing. Not just my strength, also my technique and especially my mind got stronger. I started projecting and focusing on problems. I learned about dealing with success and failure and how to

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Rocklands 2012 I - Cockaigne

Rocklands 2012 I - Cockaigne A few liters of water went down the Pegnitz (a small river in the Frankenjura) since I came back from my trip to the Rocklands during August 2012. For me it´s the best time to write about my memories from the Pakhuis Pass, the Teagarden, the Fields Of Joy, 8 Days Rain and ........ . I can´t remember a autumn season in my whole climbers life which was as bad as this one. No! It´s even not worth to call it autumn season because of there was simply no autumn! At the beginning I´ve had a glimmer of motivation to stray through the forest and get some unfinished businesses done. Wrong! On every single problem I´ve got one day! Not more and not less. Sometimes this is it! This is Frankenjura and it´s hard to stay in shape or keep the motivation on a necessarily high level. There are many places and boulders you´ll not become another chance, sometimes for a year. That´s the reason why it´s the right moment to write something aboutRead More...

The year 2012

The year 2012 is coming to an end and as one often does at the end of a year I find myself looking back, evaluating, reviewing and re-experiencing the year that has passed. I think about all the memorable climbing experiences I have had, all the fun and exciting things that happened, all the big highlights. And I also think about the things that were not so good, climbs I could not finish, trips and competitions that did not go as well as I hoped and things in my training and plans that I wish I had done differently. I also evaluate the decisions that I made and see how this has changed my life as a climber. After I finished high school in the summer 2011 I decided to have one year where I just focused on climbing, training and traveling before I started university. Therefore when the year 2012 began I was in Spain doing sport climbing. I was in a pretty good shape after an autumn where I only had been climbing and not having to juggle schoolwork and training every day. I had a greaRead More...

The Change

Hi folks! I have small news for mankind and big news for me and my family – I am pregnant! Well, it aint since yesterday, just going through 6th month now and my belly clearly shows whats going on. Feeling really happy and excited about this change in my life although I was a bit confused at the beginning. We were just packing stuff for summer boulder tour when I found out the big news. For a moment we thought about cancelling our rock trip but quickly came to conclusion that 20 days in the Alps will be nice chance to isolate in nature, consolidate my mind and accept new situation. Also I got really nice book about pregnancy from good friend of mine so I had chance to learn practical stuff about this new world I have suddenly entered. First few risky months were kind of stressfull but since than I started to feel much better physicaly and mentally. Right now I am in some flow state of mind, everything goes according the plan and hope it will keep this way till the end of the journRead More...

Red Mist

It can be really draining trying a problem over and over. And trying a single move for days on end can seem like a complete waste of time, particularly if you have the attention span of a goldfish, like me. Now, what was I saying? Oh yeah...I spied this beautiful prow about four months ago, but didn't even wander up to have a proper look at it until a couple of weeks later. I was immediately blown away by how perfect the rock was and how difficult each individual move would be. Initially, I was only able to do three of the eleven moves, but could conceive doing all but one of them. I have done of lot of new problems this year and it has been incredible. Most of them have taken only a session or two to knock over, apart from the Taken, which due to its height proved more of an issue. But, I have lacked something really hard to throw myself at. This prow would be perfect. The crux is low to the ground, easily worked on without a spotter and it is close to home, so after work sessions Read More...

Women & FA's & other stuff

The year 2012 is saying goodbye and I'm looking forward to the fresh start. The weather here is playing with us all the time. Not so good for climbing outside but perfect to get creative and make some Christmas presents, do some fingerboard training, running, pull ups and other stuff to get fit.

A while ago I went to Podrta gora (a talus spot nearby) together with Gašper. It was pretty wet so we did a lot of searching (walking), found new blocks, built some landings and worked on a hard project before the dark . In one word, we did some hard work. I was crushed at the end of the day.

Sometime ago I read an article Women in Climbing on Jamie Emerson's blog: B3bouldering. It's an interesting discussion about where women's climbing is today if we compare it to men's.

This chapter is intereRead More...

Routes Minister

Every year about this time I have a little discussion in my head. It usually goes a little like this: "Maybe this year I'll get fit and do all of those routes that I have had my eye on for years and years. Shut up idiot, that sounds stupid, it's hard work, hot, sweaty and there's not enough hard moves. Besides, we're going to Europe in six weeks on a bouldering trip. Hmmm, good point dude, let's go do some hard moves close to the ground. It's more fun, I get loads done and it's a great way to stay in shape." Aside from the worrying fact that there are twin conversations going on in my head at one time, I inevitably do one or two routes and then head off to cooler climes to boulder my little heart out. However, this year there is no christmas trip planned, no escaping the heat, no euro babes and no spanish sessions. As disappointing as this may be, it does give me an opportunity to do some routes. And I gotta admit, I'm pretty damned psyched for it. I really enjoy climbing routes, it's Read More...

Showing 25 to 32 of 49 posts

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