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Showing 1 to 8 of 21 posts

the relevance of the triviality in climbing and its conflict

There is my routeprojekt around salzburg which I tried over and over again last year. Everytime I drove three hours one way, hiked up in the hope of dry holds, visualized the moves in certain appropriate and inappropriate situations, avoided party friends and too many beers at nights out and yet I failed. I failed over and over again. I knew all the moves, all the tricks, everything my body needed for the send, but in the end it didn't happen. The snow covered the surface of the beautyful landscape in a glittering white coat, which marked the end of the season. Time to let go. So why? Too weak? Of course, as a climber you always feel like an extra amount of newtonmeter would be fine. But I could do the crux moves, I could get there without being waisted ... Bad conditions? I repeatedly cut of my fingers on the cruxedge, but there were the good days, the sticky days, the no blood days, when everything was fine and the humidity was low and temps below zero, so... not that excuseRead More...

A GoodYear

There are times around the Christmas period when I start to feel a little down. Now this is not because I am a sad sack who has no family or mates to pass the festive season with. Its more to do with the weather. Whilst you Northeners are passing the days in blissful conditions, sub zero, dry hands, sticky rock type stuff, it starts to get really hot down here in the So Hem. It's not unusual to have a Christmas where the mercury peaks at around 40degrees. In other words, it's terrible conditions for climbing. Now, it's bad enough that its fucking hot already, but to make matters worse, this year, for the first time in 7 or 8 years, I have to work all summer. So, not only do I miss out on climbing, I can't go travelling, I can't hang on the beach all day and party all night, Well I guess I can party all night, but fronting up to work hung over in your own restaurant all summer is probably not a great look, not to mention a shitty way to pass the days. So, yeah, I'm feeling a little low,Read More...

Back in the days!

During these months I was able to travel a lot with my friends and with my family. In particular in August I spent ten days in Briançon, because my brother Marco and I prefered to check new climbing cliffs instead of going as usual to Ceuse. We pratically climbed in three beautiful crags: -Face Bouc -La Saume -Rue des masques Face Bouc is situated in Ailefroide Valley, a great steep granite wall with fantastic routes. In one day I managed to climb three different lines here, I was very amused! The easy routes to the very left of the crag were all in the sun so I decided to warm up on Cambonne Beurre 7a+ but when I arrived at the anchor I realised that this was wrong way to start the day because I felt quite pumpy and "locked" but after a great rest I felt OK. The second route was Fiaschi Natique 7c+ just on the left of CambonneRead More...

Smells like Alpine-Spirit

This year I started my outdoor season in Gorge du Verdon. After one week of multipitch-climbing every boulder, and every sportsclimb felt simply like a joke (not because I was too strong, but because of the height).  So this summer, as I got injured at my finger too, I was in the perfect mood to try alpine routes.As I spend most of my „climbing-career“ in bouldering and sportsclimbing it is pretty exciting to climb in an alpine area as Rätikon.Already after 2 days there, I found a „new“ passion. Over the years I got stronger in climbing, but never went seriously to alpine stuff. And u can believe me: it’s like starting climbing again (at least on the first days).Just few days ago I had to lead my first route – from the bottom to the top. Hell, u can not believe how proud I was about myself not starting to cry and getting more and more used to climb mostly all parts „just“ with my feet. It was amazing to see, how small the „holds“ and how flat the steps can be – Read More...

Three... Two... One... PUMPED!

The Winter season is over and now I focused my time on sport climbing, in these months I visited some nice crags like:

FRACHIAMO (Italy)

CLARO (Switzerland)

CINEPLEX (Italy)

St LEGER and MALAUCENE (France)

FRACHIAMO:

I decided to go to this new crag for me because a friend of mine bolted and opened a new route called THE JOKER graded 8a and advised me to try it.

My brother made ​​the first try to understand the right holds sequence and he explained me the moves, so I decided to do a strong flash go but I failed it because I fell on the last move of the crux, I was happy anyway for my performance and I focused my mind immediately for the second attempt, after a good rest I climbed really well, without mistakes completing the route, and making the second ascent. I used a different beta thanRead More...

Simon Weill tied in to a rope! And dispatch an 8b+

For the first time in many years I have been at home for a summer. Usually I would prefer to be hanging out in cooler climes, such as Switzerland, Spain or England at this time of year. Mostly to climb on primo rock with my Northern Hemisphere peeps, but also to avoid the hideous heat that Australia is capable of producing at this time of year. For an example of this, I need only cast my mind back to yesterday when it was 40degrees. For anyone who hasn't experienced that kind of heat, it is brutal. Stinging sweat, plagues of flies and burn-in-five minutes sun rays. Not much to be achieved when it comes. I rode up Mt William at 8am, a solid 10km hill climb, was home by 10.30 and then got in situ on the couch for the day. A waste of holidays really, but it's not all bad, there are a heap of days when the temperatures are not as high and some of the evenings are actually pretty good. Now I need to clarify this a little. When I say that it's good, I mean for route climbing. As you may knoRead More...

What an amazing year!

  Well, yeah. Every day of climbing is usually a good one. But this year was full of really good days. There was no other year I improved so much than I did this one. I really felt and still feel the progress in climbing. Not just my strength, also my technique and especially my mind got stronger. I started projecting and focusing on problems. I learned about dealing with success and failure and how to

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The year 2012

The year 2012 is coming to an end and as one often does at the end of a year I find myself looking back, evaluating, reviewing and re-experiencing the year that has passed. I think about all the memorable climbing experiences I have had, all the fun and exciting things that happened, all the big highlights. And I also think about the things that were not so good, climbs I could not finish, trips and competitions that did not go as well as I hoped and things in my training and plans that I wish I had done differently. I also evaluate the decisions that I made and see how this has changed my life as a climber. After I finished high school in the summer 2011 I decided to have one year where I just focused on climbing, training and traveling before I started university. Therefore when the year 2012 began I was in Spain doing sport climbing. I was in a pretty good shape after an autumn where I only had been climbing and not having to juggle schoolwork and training every day. I had a greaRead More...

Showing 1 to 8 of 21 posts

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