In the last period since the competitions ended I have spent a lot time rock climbing, especially in the Sport Climbing.
At the beginning of October a friend of mine and I decided to take part in a rock competitions in Liguria precisely on the famous walls of Monte Cucco.
The teams were composed of two climbers, I was with my friend Federico Andreoli. The rules were simple we had to climb the highest number of routes in 5 hours.
We managed to get to the third place.
The routes that I climbed were:
-Sauta 7bO.S.-The Edit 7bO.S.
-Block Trotter 7c+(Flash) I was very proud of me because I did the best performance of the day.
Two days later I went to Valtournenche in a crag called Chesod.
At this spot there is a route that has been opened by Iker Pou and repeated by Adam Ondra graded 8b,I was very motivated to try it and afRead More...
Well it's great to be back into climbing! I had my baby boy "Jack" 7 months ago and I finally feel like i've got my strength and confidence back on the rock. I've been getting out climbing twice a week in the Blue Mountains and taking my little one with me to the crag. I've been really lucky and have been blessed with a very easy baby who is happy to go anywhere with me. And it makes it so much more special, having family climbing days at the cliff! I find I am much more productive on climbing days now also, seeing as I have limited time, so I really make the most of it!!
This picture is of me on "Fresh Goats Milk" (28) at Diamond Falls. The route was previously namRead More...
After nearly five years of no rope climbing (with a few exceptions) i've started again right before my Rocklands trip. Why now? Especially a few weeks before a bouldering trip? The answer is quite simple! I've got no idea what else to do and the amount of new hard routes is huge! After two days of struggeling with everything like pumped forarms and the fear of being half a meter above the bolts things worked better and better. I felt that my endurance came back and decided to try "Father And Son“, a 8c Route at the Trockauer Wand. The climb is something like 35 moves long, steep and for this area quite pumpy. Unfortunatelly the rock quality is not that good and it tends to soak most of the time.
The route could be seperated in three parts. The +irst one is a 7c+ section with big moves on pinches and good holds which leads to a good rest. This is where you prepare for the hardest moves maybe a font 7c+. It's a traverse on tiny crimps with a reachy finish to the next rest. The rest Read More...
Since years travelling is a big part of the climbing game for me. I have to admit, that I am some kind of an addict, when it comes to climbing trips, exotic rocks and stuff like this. But honestly: Let the climber who is without sin cast the first stone. Climbing trips are boss!!
My small addiction goes along with some nerdy habits that used to get more intense during the years. For example the runningoutofmoney-month that occurs to be October, or the scrubs like fade ways whenever I see rocks in the back of a travel advertisement showing the usual 'almost naked girl in front of a landscape' -subject. Mostly the fadeaways are because of the rocks and me visualizing my fantasy’s doing the craziest new wave climbing hit on this very beautiful very innocent rocks far away from home and mankind.
My people at home get some kind of surreal when I actually get to see them without staring into a screen. My attention fades to zero when someone tells me that: 'the Routes at home are the Read More...
After being in Kalymnos last year we were looking for a new destination for our short summer trip of 2012 and stumbled across Mallorca. From a climbers perspective, the island is mostly known for it's great Deep Water Soloing (DWS) opportunities. Not such a commonly known thing is the great amount of top sport climbing crags it has to
I returned home from my summer trip to France with an 8a red point, lots of other routes, a good tan and a feeling that I could, if I wanted to, get in a really great shape in a short period of time. But since the next international competitions I will be participating in is not set until october and november I chose to take it easy and enjoy what was left of my summer vacation.
However, this weekend on the 1st of september there was a competition located near the place I live. In Aalborg at the harbour frontage, a Deep Water Solo contest took place. Of course I had to participate!
In this life there is only one thing that I really, deeply hate; cold water. Even in the summer when it is 30 degrees outside and most people just dives into the nearest bathing place as quick as possible, it can actually take more than half an hour for me just to get my feet into the water. So to contest in a Deep Water Solo contest above a harbour has never even occurred as a possibility for Read More...
Two Thursdays ago we (me, Jesse, and Adrienne) traveled 4 hours to this place (you may have heard of it) called Rumney. I’m not sure if it’s considered the best sport-climbing crag on the East Coast, but it’s definitely the best crag I’ve ever been to. Although I usually have specific grade-oriented goals when I go outside, I didn’t have any expectations going into this, other than to improve my leading and overcome my fear of falling and camping.
Yes, I was (am) immensely terrified of camping, even more so than falling. I mean, first of all, there are wild bears and coyotes in New Hampshire. What if one of them decided to have a midnight snack or a pre-breakfast hors d'oeuvre? I Read More...