For the first time in many years I have been at home for a summer. Usually I would prefer to be hanging out in cooler climes, such as Switzerland, Spain or England at this time of year. Mostly to climb on primo rock with my Northern Hemisphere peeps, but also to avoid the hideous heat that Australia is capable of producing at this time of year. For an example of this, I need only cast my mind back to yesterday when it was 40degrees. For anyone who hasn't experienced that kind of heat, it is brutal. Stinging sweat, plagues of flies and burn-in-five minutes sun rays. Not much to be achieved when it comes.
I rode up Mt William at 8am, a solid 10km hill climb, was home by 10.30 and then got in situ on the couch for the day. A waste of holidays really, but it's not all bad, there are a heap of days when the temperatures are not as high and some of the evenings are actually pretty good. Now I need to clarify this a little. When I say that it's good, I mean for route climbing. As you may knoRead More...
Well, yeah. Every day of climbing is usually a good one. But this year was full of really good days. There was no other year I improved so much than I did this one. I really felt and still feel the progress in climbing. Not just my strength, also my technique and especially my mind got stronger.
I started projecting and focusing on problems. I learned about dealing with success and failure and how to
The year 2012 is coming to an end and as one often does at the end of a year I find myself looking back, evaluating, reviewing and re-experiencing the year that has passed. I think about all the memorable climbing experiences I have had, all the fun and exciting things that happened, all the big highlights. And I also think about the things that were not so good, climbs I could not finish, trips and competitions that did not go as well as I hoped and things in my training and plans that I wish I had done differently. I also evaluate the decisions that I made and see how this has changed my life as a climber.
After I finished high school in the summer 2011 I decided to have one year where I just focused on climbing, training and traveling before I started university. Therefore when the year 2012 began I was in Spain doing sport climbing. I was in a pretty good shape after an autumn where I only had been climbing and not having to juggle schoolwork and training every day. I had a greaRead More...
In the last period since the competitions ended I have spent a lot time rock climbing, especially in the Sport Climbing.
At the beginning of October a friend of mine and I decided to take part in a rock competitions in Liguria precisely on the famous walls of Monte Cucco.
The teams were composed of two climbers, I was with my friend Federico Andreoli. The rules were simple we had to climb the highest number of routes in 5 hours.
We managed to get to the third place.
The routes that I climbed were:
-Sauta 7bO.S.-The Edit 7bO.S.
-Block Trotter 7c+(Flash) I was very proud of me because I did the best performance of the day.
Two days later I went to Valtournenche in a crag called Chesod.
At this spot there is a route that has been opened by Iker Pou and repeated by Adam Ondra graded 8b,I was very motivated to try it and afRead More...
Well it's great to be back into climbing! I had my baby boy "Jack" 7 months ago and I finally feel like i've got my strength and confidence back on the rock. I've been getting out climbing twice a week in the Blue Mountains and taking my little one with me to the crag. I've been really lucky and have been blessed with a very easy baby who is happy to go anywhere with me. And it makes it so much more special, having family climbing days at the cliff! I find I am much more productive on climbing days now also, seeing as I have limited time, so I really make the most of it!!
This picture is of me on "Fresh Goats Milk" (28) at Diamond Falls. The route was previously namRead More...
After nearly five years of no rope climbing (with a few exceptions) i've started again right before my Rocklands trip. Why now? Especially a few weeks before a bouldering trip? The answer is quite simple! I've got no idea what else to do and the amount of new hard routes is huge! After two days of struggeling with everything like pumped forarms and the fear of being half a meter above the bolts things worked better and better. I felt that my endurance came back and decided to try "Father And Son“, a 8c Route at the Trockauer Wand. The climb is something like 35 moves long, steep and for this area quite pumpy. Unfortunatelly the rock quality is not that good and it tends to soak most of the time.
The route could be seperated in three parts. The +irst one is a 7c+ section with big moves on pinches and good holds which leads to a good rest. This is where you prepare for the hardest moves maybe a font 7c+. It's a traverse on tiny crimps with a reachy finish to the next rest. The rest Read More...
Since years travelling is a big part of the climbing game for me. I have to admit, that I am some kind of an addict, when it comes to climbing trips, exotic rocks and stuff like this. But honestly: Let the climber who is without sin cast the first stone. Climbing trips are boss!!
My small addiction goes along with some nerdy habits that used to get more intense during the years. For example the runningoutofmoney-month that occurs to be October, or the scrubs like fade ways whenever I see rocks in the back of a travel advertisement showing the usual 'almost naked girl in front of a landscape' -subject. Mostly the fadeaways are because of the rocks and me visualizing my fantasy’s doing the craziest new wave climbing hit on this very beautiful very innocent rocks far away from home and mankind.
My people at home get some kind of surreal when I actually get to see them without staring into a screen. My attention fades to zero when someone tells me that: 'the Routes at home are the Read More...