I can finally write a new blog! :)
In the last months I have been very busy with school because I had the exams, but luckily the school is over and now I can climb seriously.
I trained a lot because I had some Italian Cup competitions to participate in.
-Italy Boulder Cup in Ivrea: 7th place
-Italy Boulder Cup in Firenze: 29th place (my worst comp, I was not really in shape).
-Italy Boulder Cup in Gressoney: 5th place (my best result, I was in the final with five other athletes, I was so happy.)
Some bouldering outside thatRead More...
Although I might have been a bit slack in re-releasing my old climbing diaries, back in June and July of 1990 I was definitely not slacking. Fresh from my success on Hubble, the worlds first 8c+ my attentions have turned to the world cup leading comps in Spain and Italy in a few weeks time. After focusing on strength for the past few months it’s now time to work my endurance and on sight skills in preparation for the up and coming competitions.
24th June 1990
“Kilnsey. Warm up. Try Dreamtime. Fall. Do it second try. Bad weather, tried The Bulge. Fall near top. Felt good on it. Pumped out. Try redpoint, fall same place! Very greasy. Medium day”.
I vaguely remember this day, both trying and failing to onsight both these routes.
25th June 1990
“Filmed Hubble then pumped out hard. Body Machine, up and down Indecent ExRead More...
Yesss!!! Could finish a homeprojekt yesterday, that I was obsessed with the last days: 'Ada' 8c
This route has potential to get a real classic here: 40m of finest, slightly overhanging limestone just left of 'blut und honig' 8c+ which I opened up in 2008.
But lets start from the beginning:
From january to march there was soooo much snow in the northern part of the alps, there was no way of not falling in love with skiing again. Almost every day there was a reset on the mountain's white fluffy surface and we kind of knew how to use these conditions for the global peace of our souls....
In between the snow and the gyms, bouldering was the name of the game: Tried the 'Power of good bye' (maltataRead More...
I spent the Easter holiday Provencewhere I climbed for two days in Buoux, in my opinion one of the coolest crag in Europe. I think the style of climbing is unique and I think it’s a really difficult style of climbing on pockets and holes. The issue is also the distance between the bolts. They are spaced very far from each other so the climbing is not only demanding from a physical point of view but more so mental… Some times a bit too much…
Photo: Andrea sending Molonk 7c in Brione
In last couple of months I have decided to focus on the boulders, so I have been back and fourth to Switzerlandworking on a few projects that I have had my eyes on for a while. I have climbed and trained quite hard and at the end of February I felt strong enough to try some boulders that I consider hard.
One of the many boulders that I wanted to climb is Komilator 8a in Chironico, it is quite steep with small crimps, mostly my style of climbing! Still I had to try it quite a few times before figuring oRead More...