After being in Kalymnos last year we were looking for a new destination for our short summer trip of 2012 and stumbled across Mallorca. From a climbers perspective, the island is mostly known for it's great Deep Water Soloing (DWS) opportunities. Not such a commonly known thing is the great amount of top sport climbing crags it has to
I returned home from my summer trip to France with an 8a red point, lots of other routes, a good tan and a feeling that I could, if I wanted to, get in a really great shape in a short period of time. But since the next international competitions I will be participating in is not set until october and november I chose to take it easy and enjoy what was left of my summer vacation.
However, this weekend on the 1st of september there was a competition located near the place I live. In Aalborg at the harbour frontage, a Deep Water Solo contest took place. Of course I had to participate!
In this life there is only one thing that I really, deeply hate; cold water. Even in the summer when it is 30 degrees outside and most people just dives into the nearest bathing place as quick as possible, it can actually take more than half an hour for me just to get my feet into the water. So to contest in a Deep Water Solo contest above a harbour has never even occurred as a possibility for Read More...
Two Thursdays ago we (me, Jesse, and Adrienne) traveled 4 hours to this place (you may have heard of it) called Rumney. I’m not sure if it’s considered the best sport-climbing crag on the East Coast, but it’s definitely the best crag I’ve ever been to. Although I usually have specific grade-oriented goals when I go outside, I didn’t have any expectations going into this, other than to improve my leading and overcome my fear of falling and camping.
Yes, I was (am) immensely terrified of camping, even more so than falling. I mean, first of all, there are wild bears and coyotes in New Hampshire. What if one of them decided to have a midnight snack or a pre-breakfast hors d'oeuvre? I Read More...
I can finally write a new blog! :)
In the last months I have been very busy with school because I had the exams, but luckily the school is over and now I can climb seriously.
I trained a lot because I had some Italian Cup competitions to participate in.
-Italy Boulder Cup in Ivrea: 7th place
-Italy Boulder Cup in Firenze: 29th place (my worst comp, I was not really in shape).
-Italy Boulder Cup in Gressoney: 5th place (my best result, I was in the final with five other athletes, I was so happy.)
Some bouldering outside thatRead More...
Although I might have been a bit slack in re-releasing my old climbing diaries, back in June and July of 1990 I was definitely not slacking. Fresh from my success on Hubble, the worlds first 8c+ my attentions have turned to the world cup leading comps in Spain and Italy in a few weeks time. After focusing on strength for the past few months it’s now time to work my endurance and on sight skills in preparation for the up and coming competitions.
24th June 1990
“Kilnsey. Warm up. Try Dreamtime. Fall. Do it second try. Bad weather, tried The Bulge. Fall near top. Felt good on it. Pumped out. Try redpoint, fall same place! Very greasy. Medium day”.
I vaguely remember this day, both trying and failing to onsight both these routes.
25th June 1990
“Filmed Hubble then pumped out hard. Body Machine, up and down Indecent ExRead More...
Yesss!!! Could finish a homeprojekt yesterday, that I was obsessed with the last days: 'Ada' 8c
This route has potential to get a real classic here: 40m of finest, slightly overhanging limestone just left of 'blut und honig' 8c+ which I opened up in 2008.
But lets start from the beginning:
From january to march there was soooo much snow in the northern part of the alps, there was no way of not falling in love with skiing again. Almost every day there was a reset on the mountain's white fluffy surface and we kind of knew how to use these conditions for the global peace of our souls....
In between the snow and the gyms, bouldering was the name of the game: Tried the 'Power of good bye' (maltataRead More...
I spent the Easter holiday Provencewhere I climbed for two days in Buoux, in my opinion one of the coolest crag in Europe. I think the style of climbing is unique and I think it’s a really difficult style of climbing on pockets and holes. The issue is also the distance between the bolts. They are spaced very far from each other so the climbing is not only demanding from a physical point of view but more so mental… Some times a bit too much…
Photo: Andrea sending Molonk 7c in Brione
In last couple of months I have decided to focus on the boulders, so I have been back and fourth to Switzerlandworking on a few projects that I have had my eyes on for a while. I have climbed and trained quite hard and at the end of February I felt strong enough to try some boulders that I consider hard.
One of the many boulders that I wanted to climb is Komilator 8a in Chironico, it is quite steep with small crimps, mostly my style of climbing! Still I had to try it quite a few times before figuring oRead More...