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Bouldering

Showing 1 to 8 of 147 posts

FIBO Competition Sheffield

Some old timer recently came first in the Sheffield FIBO bouldering completion. Here's a short film that the host The Foundry Climbing Centre produced after the event. We hope you enjoy.

F-BO15 - Foundry Bouldering Open 2015 from The Foundry Climbing Centre on Vimeo.

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On the damage caused to rock by brushing.

  • 12.02.2015- by Ben Moon
  • Opinion
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North East climber and photographer Mark Savage recently sent me a photo of the damage done to the classic Bowden problem Vienna. The damage is obviously due to its popularity and Vienna is certainly not unique in this respect. There will be classic problems all over the country which are sadly changing for the worst. One of the causes of this damage is from excessive brushing to remove excess chalk so as to improve the grip between fingers and rock. We all do it and it’s almost become a ritual, part of the mental process of preparing for a hard send. However it’s worth questioning how effective this process is, is it worth the damage it causes and are there better alternatives for improving the friction and therefore your chances of success? I have done plenty of brushing in my time and my company even sells brushes but in most cases I don’t actually believe it does help to improve the friction. The only cases where it might help are where the hold obviously hasn’t beeRead More...

Insanity of Grandeur

[caption id="attachment_17443" align="aligncenter" width="980"]_DSC4872-MKeller_Illusion Insantiy of Grandeur, 8C - Chironico. Pic by angelawagner.ch[/caption] Already back in 2004 I was sitting underneath this big boulder in the 101-area at Chironico. I wanted to try the newly established problems "Einfisch" and "Delusion" but unintendedly tried them from a lower (and much harder) start. I could not do one move from that lower start but also was unable to climb more then a few moves from the existing problems. But from the very moment I was hooked up by the features and the lines on that impressive boulder, it looked just too good not to be climbed. [caption id="attachment_17447" align="aligncenter" width="980"]Read More...

Less is more

Last few months my climbing was mixture of everything. I was not focused on any particular project or strict training plan because I felt tired of the intense rhythm I held for months. This time I decided to follow my instinct and keep things as simple as possible - even if it meant climbing just once or twice per week.

This relaxed approach taught me about less is more philosophy which I have heard about but never really tried it. Of course, you cant expect to improve this way but surely you will have more energy and this is what I wanted. At first it was kind of surprising how your climbing can stay on rather high level despite few sessions per week less than usually. I climbed less but quality of the sessions raised. The other good thing which came with this energy boom was strong idea to change regular routines and spice things up a bit. So, beside running a lot I did some training sessions at home, got our crashpads out from the basement , visRead More...

Lightening up a MOON Board!

Guest blog by Chad Jensen - Alaska USA! Dear all its a pleasure for us to introduce Chad Jensen an keen climber a brilliant inventor from Alaska - USA. Chad has invented a brilliant system to show problems on the MOON Board. Below you will find Chad's guest blog and a link to the Video showing his super cool innovation. Thanks a bunch for sharing this with us Chad we are delighted! MOON Climbing   These last few years, I learned that I really need to add more bouldering into my training routine to be powerful enough to climb at the level I desire. The best bouldering system I’ve found that allows me to incorporate this training is the Moonboard. I love how many problems there are and the level of difficulty of the problems (although it was frustrating at first!). There is no cheating your training session on this board. The only problem I ran into is the taRead More...

LAST MOVES AGAIN - AND A LITTLE SEND

[caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="715"] After waiting all day at Ticino for "Insanity" to dry without success; change of program: Walk up to Sustenpass, 2000m above sea level, 1st of Dezember; "Highlander-Project", 0:30AM, 0C, very windy, COLD, climbing into the last move again...[/caption] It looks like it just does not matter what i try and when i try... i can make my way up to the last move(s) of any of my lifetime projects, at -2C or at +20C... in the dry... in the wet... but just don't send... either it's too cold, i am too tired, too rested, too.... "something"... and then i suddenly start falling off the first move.... then every other move and then fighting up to the last one again... to go down on that as well... but i am working on the "something" - and i will get to that top(s)... sooner or latRead More...

My trip to US and all that sandstone

It was finally here - the time to pack my bags and fly to Vegas. A month of a simple life in a desert was waiting for us and so were all that blocs out there. We've been on a trip to US before. Somehow we end up coming back almost every year. This time we decided to see what Nevada and Utah have to offer. [caption id="attachment_17340" align="aligncenter" width="300"]IMG_1339 (1) Amazing Plumber's Crack[/caption] First stop: Red Rocks. That place truly blew me away. So many different colours and shapes of rock and styles of climbing. You can find anything and everything is so good. I enjoyed the whole experience. From walking to the boulders and just looking around, to super fun warm ups and finally, the trying hard on something thaRead More...

Summer road trip in the United States

In the past years, my bigger trips abroad have always been revolving around climbing. It was usually  about finding the right spot with the right conditions at that time and go for it. And it was great! Our passion is climbing and what's better than travelling to a foreign country to do so! On another hand, those trips never left room for anything else than the sport though, which also can be a bit of a pity sometimes when I look back. Mostly, I would be stuck in one place only - the crag and  the town (or village) you would stay or buy your groceries from. There have always been good intentions in the forefront of the trip, of what cool things you could go see on your rest days! Or even cut down some of the climbing days at the beginning/end to travel somewhere close, not for climbing! But in the end it never actually happened... On rest days you're always too tired and lazy to do any other than chill out and take care of your skin. And you won't be cutting the climbing days becaRead More...

Showing 1 to 8 of 147 posts