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Bouldering

Showing 1 to 8 of 152 posts

Ben Moon's Climbing Diary From 1990 weeks 3 & 4

I am still on the come back road from my skiing injury which had put me out for a couple of months and it would appear the focus at this point is a world cup competition in Vienna, Austria in the last weekend of April. In an attempt to get my endurance up I am flitting between Raven's Tor, Lower Pen-Trwyn and Malham. At Malham I am trying Mark Leach's hard new route Cry Freedom (formerly the aid route Controversy) which weighed in at a hard 8b+. Needless to say the comp didn't go well and I went out in the semi-finals. Scan 3Read More...

Ben Moon's Climbing Diary From 1990 Weeks 1 & 2

To celebrate the first ascent 25 years ago of what is now widely recognised as the worlds 1st 9a route we will be publishing each week my climbing diaries from 25 years ago leading up to the ascent. To give a little bit of background to these diaries the winter of '89 was spent training on my newly constructed training board in the cellar of the small 2-up 2-down terrace I was living in in Sheffield. Although a very basic training board by todays standards it was never the less quite a leap forward for us. Bear in mind that at this time there was no commercial climbing wall in Sheffield and all our training consisted of bouldering either on man made stone walls like Broomgrove Road wall or on the peak limestone and grit. Now we were able to train on a specific style of problem and to train whenever we felt like it regardless of the weather. It certainly paid off and by early February after several months of training I was feeling perhaps the strongest ever. Before attempting to freRead More...

Back in the saddle

Let's be honest, being injured sucks! In a big way. All of us, no matter whether we fool around on boulders, crush hard on sport routes or love placing wigglies, hate being injured. Worst of all is having time to climb and being unable to do so. Sadly, as we get older, these injuries become more frequent and more debilitating. Bouldering is definitely the most aggravating type of climbing that one can pursue, but just so happens to be my favourite pastime. Add that to my other chosen pursuit, Jiu Jitsu and you have a dynamite combo forever lurking in the background, waiting to mess you up... So, unsurprisingly, in November, I had surgery on my elbow to remove a bone spur and to give it a bit of a clean up. One too many gastons or one too many armbars meant that I was left with a permanently aggravated elbow which I couldn't straighten nor bend the whole way. The surgery itself wasn't a big deal, four small incisions, a bit of cutting and scraping and you're away, but it's what comesRead More...

Fontainebleau with Slovenia Climbing Team

I almost forgot how good Font really is. It's been too long. This trip was all about our team preparing for the next season. I went there as a coach and I wanted to climb along with our strong guys and girls but unfortunately I got sick. The weather was perfect for all 8 days (I still can't believe it) and I enjoyed climbing some easier stuff and I got to see some new areas that I've never been to before. It was not my time to climb anyway and it was cool to see our team crushing day after day. I'm planning to go back this fall, for a bit longer than a week. It's truly the best place in the world (if it doesn't rain).  Here are a few moments when I felt a bit better and I tried to climb :) [caption id="attachment_17605" align="aligncenter" width="1024"]imageRead More...

Lords of the boards

I recently watched a few buddies having good time on the Moon Board and it was great to see them getting so hooked by this small piece of wood, despite everything else our gym has to offer. It reminded me of period almost two decades ago when the system boards were smaller than the standard Moon Board. At the time it was our only indoor training tool. There were a bunch of them at different locations in Split and we trained on them like crazy. Most of the time I spent at Joke Purko's place whose board was super fingery and with the best collection of home made wooden holds. I remember a hard 30-40 move problem we climbed standing on the same footholds because the board was so small that we could reach nearly all the holds without moving our feet. At the Zlodre board we were wild and loud. This board was definitely more sophisticated. It had the option to change the angle of the overhang and it was the first board in Split with a few modern Lapis holds bought in Slovenia. &Read More...

FIBO Competition Sheffield

Some old timer recently came first in the Sheffield FIBO bouldering completion. Here's a short film that the host The Foundry Climbing Centre produced after the event. We hope you enjoy.

F-BO15 - Foundry Bouldering Open 2015 from The Foundry Climbing Centre on Vimeo.

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On the damage caused to rock by brushing.

  • 12.02.2015- by Ben Moon
  • Opinion
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North East climber and photographer Mark Savage recently sent me a photo of the damage done to the classic Bowden problem Vienna. The damage is obviously due to its popularity and Vienna is certainly not unique in this respect. There will be classic problems all over the country which are sadly changing for the worst. One of the causes of this damage is from excessive brushing to remove excess chalk so as to improve the grip between fingers and rock. We all do it and it’s almost become a ritual, part of the mental process of preparing for a hard send. However it’s worth questioning how effective this process is, is it worth the damage it causes and are there better alternatives for improving the friction and therefore your chances of success? I have done plenty of brushing in my time and my company even sells brushes but in most cases I don’t actually believe it does help to improve the friction. The only cases where it might help are where the hold obviously hasn’t beeRead More...

Insanity of Grandeur

[caption id="attachment_17443" align="aligncenter" width="980"]_DSC4872-MKeller_Illusion Insantiy of Grandeur, 8C - Chironico. Pic by angelawagner.ch[/caption] Already back in 2004 I was sitting underneath this big boulder in the 101-area at Chironico. I wanted to try the newly established problems "Einfisch" and "Delusion" but unintendedly tried them from a lower (and much harder) start. I could not do one move from that lower start but also was unable to climb more then a few moves from the existing problems. But from the very moment I was hooked up by the features and the lines on that impressive boulder, it looked just too good not to be climbed. [caption id="attachment_17447" align="aligncenter" width="980"]Read More...

Showing 1 to 8 of 152 posts