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Bouldering

Showing 9 to 16 of 138 posts

Deja Vu

After a quick 15 hour flight from Salt Lake City-Chicago-Dublin and finally Paris, the once far away magical forest of Fontainebleau was within my grasp. I love returning to an area 10 years later for its as if I had never been, everything fresh and new but still so familiar, a bit of deja vu was clearly present. We snatched up our spiffy French car and hit the road, after sussing out our living sitiuation with a good friend the time had come to attack the precious boulders. Unfortunately the ever present moisture and dew had devoured the boulders and never seemed to evaporate. Climbing in Fontainebleau is by far one of the most technical styles of rock in the world, its also extremely temperature dependent. The conditions were completely horrible, and even the thought of projecting anything above the warmup grade was out of the question. It was fun for a day or two but after 3 weeks of the continuous let down, my mind began to go a little cuckoo. Nearing the end of our France [...] Read More...

Achille is mine!

I have been going often to Monte Amiata since 2006 with my friends Lorenzo Frusteri and Beniamino (Bengio) Chiesi, who moved there a few years ago in order to increase the value of this area.

Among the many areas that I visited in years I missed the one located near the summit at nearly 1500 meters high. It is a very beautiful cliff. Bengio told me about it, its name is Achille, he felt for a long time but could not figure it out.

I was awed, maybe because it is high and because grips are few and painful. I spent all day long climbing, keeping on looking at Achille but without trying. At the end of the day it went on the back burner of my mind.

In winter 2011 Michele Caminati released it and gave it the degree 8A+ fb. Two years later, in July 2013 I went back to the top with Bengio and Read More...

Consolation Prize

Even a master in the "Art of Failure" sometimes gets something done. Even it's "just" a lowdown start to an existing problem, it does complete a nice line and it is always good to come back and do something you have not been able to do before :) After I was snowed out from Sustenpass some nice "F Read More...

Back to swizzy

As always, flying is far more glamorous to those who don't do much of it. Now don't get me wrong, I'm not some high flying exec, who boards a plane for some far flung destination every second week, but when you live on the arse end of the world, flying and particularly, flying for a really long time is part and parcel of climbing at awesome venues around the world. So, it was with the usual trepidation that I boarded my longhaul flight to Milan, praying that there would be some good films and some extra space. I was awarded on my second leg with a full row to myself. Nothing to it really, two valium, an eye mask, ear plugs and whammo, I was in Milan Read More...

Old projects, new projects

When I came back from The States I wasn't happy to be home but my motivation for climbing was high and I was in some sort of a sending mood. This way I did one of my old projects Ro Read More...

the art of failure

2day Read More...

My first senior competition

A few a weeks ago, I participated in my first senior competition, the Nordic championship. Since I turned 16 this year it's my first year I get to compete with the seniors. So for me, this competition was a completely new experience. The contest took place at Kl Read More...

The mothership

Conditions are better and works on renovation are nearly finished. Time to climb more and work less. During summer I didn't climb a lot, but enough to keep my Read More...

Showing 9 to 16 of 138 posts