A few a weeks ago, I participated in my first senior competition, the Nordic championship. Since I turned 16 this year it's my first year I get to compete with the seniors. So for me, this competition was a completely new experience. The contest took place at Klättercentret K2 in Stockholm where I usually train. I signed up just for fun. I would never have dreamt about to fight with the absolute best, but I hoped to reach the final. There was a strong line up for both women and men. I'm glad so many talented girls participated, among them Therese Johansen, Hannah Mitbø, Tina Johansen Hafsaas and moon climber Katrine Vandet Salling.
I felt rather nervous for the qualification, like a small shit among the others. Since I hadn't been at any senior competition before, I didn't really know how it all worked. Luckily I knew a lot of nice people from Sweden in the isolation I could talk with.
The qualification did not go as well as I had hoped, I thoughRead More...
Conditions are better and works on renovation are nearly finished. Time to climb more and work less. During summer I didn't climb a lot, but enough to keep my physical form from dropping to low. In a last few weeks I trained a bit more and started to go outdoor more often.
There was always a line in our local boulder spot Ožbalt, that was sooo obvious, but with a scary top-out and
Summer as always went by quickly, I think that the human beings should be on holidays 350 days a year…
After finishing the maintenance works in the gym, on August 9 my girlfriend and I decided to leave for a 10 days tour between Val Daone and Zillertal.
First stop in Val Daone, an enchanting valley beneath the Adamello, well known for its ice falls. In recent years a large group of climbers from Trento and Brescia is enhancing it with granite blocks which have nothing to envy to the Ticino ones.
After one day running, I decided to try a block that I already spotted on Internet, a very beautiful top furrowed by very good crimps released by Gabriele Moroni.
I spent half a day searching for the best sequence for hands and feet, but after the first laps from the bottom I realized that I spent too much energy in the study of movements and I decided to come back more rested the day after.
Next morning I waked up painfully, because in the lasRead More...
After my "super-close-no-send" of the highlander-project in mid july I was off to Indo for some surfing and it was a great time. Life was very simple: surf, eat, sleep - nothing more, nothing less. It was good for my body to let my knee and hamstring heal and good for my mind as well!
Style is everything... ;)
Back home in swizzy I was greeted by rain but the next daRead More...
There aren't many places in the world that I think about more. I have only been there once before, but every time I picture it, I start to feel my senses heighten. My palms start to sweat, my fingers crimp involuntarily and I picture pristine granite boulders... Hells yeah, I'm off to Switzerland again. Four weeks out and I couldn't be more excited. Since last year when I spent 2 weeks running around Chironico and Brione I have thought of little else in terms of overseas trips. Well, that's not entirely true, I think about Squamish, Font, Rocklands, Norway, Hueco, Albarracin, but most often I dream of Ticino, the beautiful Swiss Canton, home to some of the most amazing boulders that this wee planet has to offer.
I'm not exactly lacking incredible places to climb, I have been living within touching distance of the Grampians up until the middle of this year and have been lucky enough to have free reign on literally hundreds of first ascents. So, why then do I feel so drawn to a far off Read More...
I left Colorado with some mixed emotions. I love it there. The beautiful nature, the granite boulders, the wildlife, the fresh air. It’s amazing. But on the other hand, I haven’t seen that much rain in a while. Not even in Font. Getting rained out on the hike out, endless waiting under some overhang for the shower or thunderstorm to be over, hail, rain, blue sky, rainbow, more rain. This is what they call here ‘’the true Colorado experience’’. Luckily, the rocks dry very quickly.
With the weather forecast telling me everyday that there is about 50% chance of rain or possible thunderstorms, I didn't really plan my climbing days or rest days. I climbed whenever it was possible on whatever was most likely to be dry. No real projects, just climbing a lot when it was good. We had a few really amazing days. Rocky Mountain, Mt. Evans, Lincoln Lake and Wild Basin. There’s so much to do and once you get used to the high altitude and long hikes you geRead More...
The temps have dropped, trees get colored and start to loose leaves, snow has fallen in the mountains - fall has arrived. So its time to have a quick look back what summer was like.
The start of the summer was bitter but the second half was pretty
sweet. Coming back from an 8month rehab period after my hamstrings surgery and feeling strong as never before (due to some “serious” training for which I had time as I was not able to climb outdoors) I managed to split (pretty badly) my meniscus on my left knee.
After topping off the amazing winter and spring season of climbing with the first ascent of Force of Nature(V14) I found myself in the hottest part of Utah and gearing up for a season of work here in Zion, Utah. Unmotivated by the nuclear temperatures, training for climbing was out of the question. So what else do we do?
I heard word from my good friend Noah Kaufman that he got accepted onto a TV show know as American Ninja Warrior, I became intrigued and in the last minute on the last day I threw together a submission video. Unfortunately I was too late and the casting crew informed me that my region was full and they had already picked their competitors for the year. At the moment I could care less about being on the show, I just really wanted to test my skills on the obstacle's. This really bummed me out, so I further researched getting into the competition and found out there is one last chance. It involved getting into whats called a walk-on-line.
We packed our bags and drove toRead More...