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Bouldering

Showing 25 to 32 of 152 posts

Consolation Prize

Even a master in the "Art of Failure" sometimes gets something done. Even it's "just" a lowdown start to an existing problem, it does complete a nice line and it is always good to come back and do something you have not been able to do before :) After I was snowed out from Sustenpass some nice "Fön-Wind" was forecasted for Chironico. I have not been climbing in Chironico for over a year so I was very excited to touch this nice gneiss again. After a full day of work I was back in Chironico at for the first time after my injury - the first time after over one year. It was a pity it was already dark (7pm) but friction felt great. I wanted to have a lock at "Insanity of Grandeur, 8C" on which I was very close as it still was a project. I warmed up on the "Electric-Ant" boulder. There is a nice little line on the right side of it which I did the FA two years ago. Back then on my FA of "A cat on a hot thin roof" I started sitting but quite stretched out. So I was wondering if it may woulRead More...

Back to swizzy

As always, flying is far more glamorous to those who don't do much of it. Now don't get me wrong, I'm not some high flying exec, who boards a plane for some far flung destination every second week, but when you live on the arse end of the world, flying and particularly, flying for a really long time is part and parcel of climbing at awesome venues around the world. So, it was with the usual trepidation that I boarded my longhaul flight to Milan, praying that there would be some good films and some extra space. I was awarded on my second leg with a full row to myself. Nothing to it really, two valium, an eye mask, ear plugs and whammo, I was in Milan…

Even though I had done thRead More...

Old projects, new projects

When I came back from The States I wasn't happy to be home but my motivation for climbing was high and I was in some sort of a sending mood. This way I did one of my old projects Rože zla (Les Fleurs du Mal), 7C+. I was just wandering if the holds still felt so bad and before I realized how terribly small and painful those crimps are, I was on top of it. Such a cool moment to do something unexpectedly. It's a ground up climb, so I stuck that crux move for the first time ever and then it was just a matter of staying calm to top it out.  

  For me, it's harder to try really hard and fight when I climb on some local spots, because in the back of my mind is aRead More...

the art of failure

2day “epics" are well common these days where everything seems to be (has to be) "second go, 5min, soft...". One could think that after 3days with no success some people's climbing life starts to fall apart... what if there are not enough points for the season... falling back in the ranking is NOT an option... crisis... disaster... OMG... funny little combing world ;) While it can be really fun to climb something pretty quickly - I really enjoy much more the process of testing my physical and mental limits - to dive deep into the microcosms of moving on rock. This year was season 10 up there at the highlander project. And it was the third season in a row where I managed to go down on the last move of my highlander project. Over the last two weeks I could feel how I got stronger and stronger and after going down on my way to that last hold I did really hope for one last chance. Just one more day! After some snowy days weather turned good and warmer again - just in time before wRead More...

My first senior competition

A few a weeks ago, I participated in my first senior competition, the Nordic championship. Since I turned 16 this year it's my first year I get to compete with the seniors. So for me, this competition was a completely new experience. The contest took place at Klättercentret K2 in Stockholm where I usually train. I signed up just for fun. I would never have dreamt about to fight with the absolute best, but I hoped to reach the final. There was a strong line up for both women and men. I'm glad so many talented girls participated, among them Therese Johansen, Hannah Mitbø, Tina Johansen Hafsaas and moon climber Katrine Vandet Salling.

I felt rather nervous for the qualification, like a small shit among the others. Since I hadn't been at any senior competition before, I didn't really know how it all worked. Luckily I knew a lot of nice people from Sweden in the isolation I could talk with.

The qualification did not go as well as I had hoped, I thoughRead More...

The mothership

Conditions are better and works on renovation are nearly finished. Time to climb more and work less. During summer I didn't climb a lot, but enough to keep my physical form from dropping to low. In a last few weeks I trained a bit more and started to go outdoor more often.

There was always a line in our local boulder spot Ožbalt, that was sooo obvious, but with a scary top-out and

Read More...

Summer is gone

Summer as always went by quickly, I think that the human beings should be on holidays 350 days a year… After finishing the maintenance works in the gym, on August 9 my girlfriend and I decided to leave for a 10 days tour between Val Daone and Zillertal. First stop in Val Daone, an enchanting valley beneath the Adamello, well known for its ice falls. In recent years a large group of climbers from Trento and Brescia is enhancing it with granite blocks which have nothing to envy to the Ticino ones. After one day running, I decided to try a block that I already spotted on Internet, a very beautiful top furrowed by very good crimps released by Gabriele Moroni. I spent half a day searching for the best sequence for hands and feet, but after the first laps from the bottom I realized that I spent too much energy in the study of movements and I decided to come back more rested the day after. Next morning I waked up painfully, because in the lasRead More...

Sweet Summer

with a sliced fingertip at its ending....

After my "super-close-no-send" of the highlander-project in mid july I was off to Indo for some surfing and it was a great time. Life was very simple: surf, eat, sleep - nothing more, nothing less. It was good for my body to let my knee and hamstring heal and good for my mind as well!

Style is everything... ;)

Back home in swizzy I was greeted by rain but the next daRead More...

Showing 25 to 32 of 152 posts