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Bouldering

Showing 25 to 32 of 150 posts

Old projects, new projects

When I came back from The States I wasn't happy to be home but my motivation for climbing was high and I was in some sort of a sending mood. This way I did one of my old projects Rože zla (Les Fleurs du Mal), 7C+. I was just wandering if the holds still felt so bad and before I realized how terribly small and painful those crimps are, I was on top of it. Such a cool moment to do something unexpectedly. It's a ground up climb, so I stuck that crux move for the first time ever and then it was just a matter of staying calm to top it out.  

  For me, it's harder to try really hard and fight when I climb on some local spots, because in the back of my mind is aRead More...

the art of failure

2day “epics" are well common these days where everything seems to be (has to be) "second go, 5min, soft...". One could think that after 3days with no success some people's climbing life starts to fall apart... what if there are not enough points for the season... falling back in the ranking is NOT an option... crisis... disaster... OMG... funny little combing world ;) While it can be really fun to climb something pretty quickly - I really enjoy much more the process of testing my physical and mental limits - to dive deep into the microcosms of moving on rock. This year was season 10 up there at the highlander project. And it was the third season in a row where I managed to go down on the last move of my highlander project. Over the last two weeks I could feel how I got stronger and stronger and after going down on my way to that last hold I did really hope for one last chance. Just one more day! After some snowy days weather turned good and warmer again - just in time before wRead More...

My first senior competition

A few a weeks ago, I participated in my first senior competition, the Nordic championship. Since I turned 16 this year it's my first year I get to compete with the seniors. So for me, this competition was a completely new experience. The contest took place at Klättercentret K2 in Stockholm where I usually train. I signed up just for fun. I would never have dreamt about to fight with the absolute best, but I hoped to reach the final. There was a strong line up for both women and men. I'm glad so many talented girls participated, among them Therese Johansen, Hannah Mitbø, Tina Johansen Hafsaas and moon climber Katrine Vandet Salling.

I felt rather nervous for the qualification, like a small shit among the others. Since I hadn't been at any senior competition before, I didn't really know how it all worked. Luckily I knew a lot of nice people from Sweden in the isolation I could talk with.

The qualification did not go as well as I had hoped, I thoughRead More...

The mothership

Conditions are better and works on renovation are nearly finished. Time to climb more and work less. During summer I didn't climb a lot, but enough to keep my physical form from dropping to low. In a last few weeks I trained a bit more and started to go outdoor more often.

There was always a line in our local boulder spot Ožbalt, that was sooo obvious, but with a scary top-out and

Read More...

Summer is gone

Summer as always went by quickly, I think that the human beings should be on holidays 350 days a year… After finishing the maintenance works in the gym, on August 9 my girlfriend and I decided to leave for a 10 days tour between Val Daone and Zillertal. First stop in Val Daone, an enchanting valley beneath the Adamello, well known for its ice falls. In recent years a large group of climbers from Trento and Brescia is enhancing it with granite blocks which have nothing to envy to the Ticino ones. After one day running, I decided to try a block that I already spotted on Internet, a very beautiful top furrowed by very good crimps released by Gabriele Moroni. I spent half a day searching for the best sequence for hands and feet, but after the first laps from the bottom I realized that I spent too much energy in the study of movements and I decided to come back more rested the day after. Next morning I waked up painfully, because in the lasRead More...

Sweet Summer

with a sliced fingertip at its ending....

After my "super-close-no-send" of the highlander-project in mid july I was off to Indo for some surfing and it was a great time. Life was very simple: surf, eat, sleep - nothing more, nothing less. It was good for my body to let my knee and hamstring heal and good for my mind as well!

Style is everything... ;)

Back home in swizzy I was greeted by rain but the next daRead More...

Switzerland Mark II

There aren't many places in the world that I think about more. I have only been there once before, but every time I picture it, I start to feel my senses heighten. My palms start to sweat, my fingers crimp involuntarily and I picture pristine granite boulders... Hells yeah, I'm off to Switzerland again. Four weeks out and I couldn't be more excited. Since last year when I spent 2 weeks running around Chironico and Brione I have thought of little else in terms of overseas trips. Well, that's not entirely true, I think about Squamish, Font, Rocklands, Norway, Hueco, Albarracin, but most often I dream of Ticino, the beautiful Swiss Canton, home to some of the most amazing boulders that this wee planet has to offer. I'm not exactly lacking incredible places to climb, I have been living within touching distance of the Grampians up until the middle of this year and have been lucky enough to have free reign on literally hundreds of first ascents. So, why then do I feel so drawn to a far off Read More...

My Colorado adventure (part 2)

I left Colorado with some mixed emotions. I love it there. The beautiful nature, the granite boulders, the wildlife, the fresh air. It’s amazing. But on the other hand, I haven’t seen that much rain in a while. Not even in Font. Getting rained out on the hike out, endless waiting under some overhang for the shower or thunderstorm to be over, hail, rain, blue sky, rainbow, more rain. This is what they call here ‘’the true Colorado experience’’. Luckily, the rocks dry very quickly.

With the weather forecast telling me everyday that there is about 50% chance of rain or possible thunderstorms, I didn't really plan my climbing days or rest days. I climbed whenever it was possible on whatever was most likely to be dry. No real projects, just climbing a lot when it was good. We had a few really amazing days. Rocky Mountain, Mt. Evans, Lincoln Lake and Wild Basin. There’s so much to do and once you get used to the high altitude and long hikes you geRead More...

Showing 25 to 32 of 150 posts