It's now been 6 weeks since I had the wire removed from my thumb after a skiing accident and I am now only 4 weeks away from making the first ascent of Hubble at Raven's Tor which was to become the worlds 1st 9a route. It doesn't look like I get much training or climbing for the next two weeks due to working on a terrible Bogna film called Fire, Ice and Dynamite which I thankfully never got to see. Maybe this forced rest for 2 weeks was a good thing for me since I'd now been climbing and training for around 6 weeks and was due a change of scene before starting the route campaign in earnest.
Here is week 4 and 5 in the build up to the first ascent of Hubble. Not much training going on but lots of air miles! Shortly after the world cup competition in Austria Jerry and I flew out to Tokyo for a demonstration comp which I think Yuji won. It was a flying visit but great to see a little of Tokyo. Lots and lots of people, really good healthy food and video games which were light years ahead of what we had in the UK at the time although Jerry and I did get into a bit of a scrap over these!
I am still on the come back road from my skiing injury which had put me out for a couple of months and it would appear the focus at this point is a world cup competition in Vienna, Austria in the last weekend of April. In an attempt to get my endurance up I am flitting between Raven's Tor, Lower Pen-Trwyn and Malham. At Malham I am trying Mark Leach's hard new route Cry Freedom (formerly the aid route Controversy) which weighed in at a hard 8b+. Needless to say the comp didn't go well and I went out in the semi-finals.
This was one busy summer for me. I spent most of my days in our gym with the team preparing for the comps, route setting and then going from one world cup to another. The highlight was, of course, world championships in Munich. In my competition years there was also a world championships in 2005and If I look back now, it's so funny how things change. Bouldering was still pretty new to me at that time but I was very
Soon, summer is coming to an end. I've had a fantastic summer so far. Basically, it has all been about climbing. Outdoor climbing, climbing trips, indoor training, climbing comps, climbing books, climbing friends and some climbing chat.
I've learnt a lot during these few summer months. I've found one of my biggest weaknesses. It isn't anything about strength, technique, or even dynos (which I need to practice....). It my psyche. When I realized this, all the pieces fell into it's places: why I couldn't perform at my best at the most important competitions, why I fell of on the same route and same sequence time after time although I had done it before. Why I once did perform my best on a competition; because I didn't feel any pressure.
I'm very happy to find this out. I mean, now I can make it even better! I've started to read a book about mental training and mental training practice has entered my training schedule. Now I'm extrRead More...
Lately, I've been super busy. Not climbing a lot for myself, but making some other goals and dreams come true. We've just opened a new gym for Slovenia Climbing Team. Our head coaches Simon and Roman have been dreaming about it for a long time and now it's here. I'm so happy and proud to be part of this project and I'm sure that it'll make our team even stronger!
Beside the opening of the new gym, we organized a nice master competition event and I was one of the routesetters. The
final round was a great show and we'll do it for sure next year.
I've been a member of Slovenia Climbing Team as a competitor for many years and now I'm in a different role as a coach. I find it really challenging and I'm so happy that my life is all about climbing and that my job is also something that I love!
Next week we're off to Suisse with the youth team. It'll be cool to see them crushing outside and I'm happy to go along, it's been a while since my last visit to Ticino!
A few a weeks ago, I participated in my first senior competition, the Nordic championship. Since I turned 16 this year it's my first year I get to compete with the seniors. So for me, this competition was a completely new experience. The contest took place at Klättercentret K2 in Stockholm where I usually train. I signed up just for fun. I would never have dreamt about to fight with the absolute best, but I hoped to reach the final. There was a strong line up for both women and men. I'm glad so many talented girls participated, among them Therese Johansen, Hannah Mitbø, Tina Johansen Hafsaas and moon climber Katrine Vandet Salling.
I felt rather nervous for the qualification, like a small shit among the others. Since I hadn't been at any senior competition before, I didn't really know how it all worked. Luckily I knew a lot of nice people from Sweden in the isolation I could talk with.
The qualification did not go as well as I had hoped, I thoughRead More...