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Competitions

Showing 9 to 16 of 26 posts

My First Open Nationals

The title says it all. ABS Open Nationals 2013. Only the most stacked comp in the country. How the hell did I end up here?   Well, once upon a time, there was a climber named Galina who decided she wasn't going to do Youth ABS this year because she was a complete idiot and didn't realize she actually had a chance of making the US Team but completely blew it due to her inability to make decisions. So she decided to do Open Nationals instead. Not because she thought she could win or place or anything, but because she thought it would be a good experience. Which it was. Worth every penny of the $185 entry fee. Also it took place in the Colorado Springs auditorium, which is about 5 minutes from campus. I'm not going to go through and describe Read More...

JIBS: Ends and Beginnings

JIBS. Junior Indoor Bouldering Series. This competition will always hold a special place in my heart. There's just something about woody walls, old greasy holds, incredible setting, and the whole community vibe that the Philadelphia Rock Gym creates every year. If I couldn't climb at Prime Climb anymore, this would undoubtedly be my gym of choice. I almost didn't make it this year, mainly due to the fact that I'm in Colorado Springs and Philadelphia is about 1,671.2 miles away. Yet somehow all the cards aligned, and on February 7th, I found myself on a plane headed to La Guardia in New York, racing to beat Nemo, the due-to-be snowstorm of the century. Fortunately, I was able to book an earlier flight, which conveniently gave me more time to study for my Russian final. And we spent two nights at our New Jersey family’s house (at least the closest we have to family here in the States). Qualifiers were smooth sailing, as usual. I ended up finding a bunch of crimpy 700s and 800s toRead More...

Comps 2013

I know, I haven't written any blog in a while. Honestly, nothing special has happened... Except from when I won the Nordic Championship in lead... That was a while ago so I guess

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TIME OF RAIN? POSTO DI BLOCCO BOULDER COMPETITION!

Two weeks of rainy weather don't leave any crags dry enough for climbing ... Here in northern Italy right now we have to take refuge in the gym... At Postodiblocco Climbing Village we organized the penultimate stage of the most important winter bouldering circuit in northern Italy, TCC (Torino climbing challenge) and we had a record attendance with 230 climbers of all levels and ages facing numerous boulders prepared for the occasion by route setter Matteo Gambaro. In the Top categories numerous young and strong athletes showed a very high level and the event was a great success. The finals were very exciting with spectacular boulders whit only one top out and a clear winner! http://www.blogside.it/torinoclimbingchallenge#tcc13 http://www.postodiblocco.com/index.php?News&id=267 While waiting for the weather to improve so we can return to the projects outdoor we stay in the gym...   Read More...

A great start of the year

From the very 1st of january I had 25 days to get as ready as possible to participate in the first competition of the year! The competition was located in Copenhagen. It was the first round of a new concept called The Annual Cup, which is a new addition to the line of danish bouldering cups. With only 25 days to get fit I had to train every single day. Surprisingly, to myself as well as to others I must imagine, the get-fit-in-20-days project seemed to work! My guess is that after a relaxed holiday over Christmas, my body must have been completely recovered from any kind of overloading. Plus, I made sure that I ate properly and enough every single day as well, and got all the hours of sleep needed to be able to rest and recover as much as possible over night and therefore be able to train without getting any injuries the following day. On the day of the competition I felt ready to climb. 42 problems had been put up and we all had 5 hours to do as many as possible. At the end of tRead More...

CWIF Competition

Before heading out to Siruana I received a text message from ex British Bouldering Champion Gareth Parry inviting me to compete in one of his Bloc Fest competitions. Since the comp was the next day it was a bit last minute and I had to decline. Strangely the invite coincided with a dream I had had the night before in which I was back in the competition arena. Goodness knows what Freud would have made of that, midlife crisis perhaps? Anyway whilst in Siruana I had the crazy idea of entering a Moon team in the up and coming CWIF competition at The Climbing Works. After a few phone calls and text messages I had recruited British junior champion Molly-Thompson Smith, young talent Tom Newman, my friend and Climbing Works regular Bob Smith and some old has been called Ben Moon. Since returning from Siruana work and family commitments have meant that my climbing and training have taken a back seat but in a token effort to prepare for CWIF I did squeeze in one session at The Climbing WorRead More...

The Year That Passed - 2012

So the year passed by, just like that - or so it feels, now, afterwards, when I can do nothing about anything that happened but leaf through the memories and events in my mind.

 

To make what could have been a very long story very short I have chosen a few events just to summon up an outline of 2012 from my perspective. I have purposely chosen not to write (whine) about injuries, school and other depressing stuff even though I must admit that these has been kind of my own constant moan at times. One thing I will confirm, however, is that right now I have a stress fracture on my right shin-bone due to overtraining. Some scans revealed it a few weeks ago. And to make this a non-whining statement (like I just promised to save everyone from), I want to say that this will be over soon enough and that I can now fully climb agin. So no excuses.

Here are an outline of some of the main events with matching pictures from my 2012! Enjoy.

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Short Update

What's going on lately? A lack of rock that's what's going for the last months. Since summer (a month in Targasonne) I didn't climb outside. It is one of the downsides of living in the Netherlands, we have no rock! Ok Font is not too far away but still a 5 to 6 hour drive and that simply didn't work out. This didn't mean that nothing happened. I kind of lost my motivation for competitions, that's the reason that I quit the Dutch team. Next year no worldcups for me. Why I lost my motivation for comps is all bit blurry for me, I think part of the disappointing results but also due to my ambitions on rock. The motivation to perform well on real rock is just a lot bigger for me and because of a busier schedule I had to make a choice. The fact that I quit the international competition scene doesn't mean I lost my motivation to train. Thanks to a new bouldergym close to my home motivation even might have grown. Delfts Bleau is the first bouldergym near Rotterdam (only a 10 min drive for mRead More...

Showing 9 to 16 of 26 posts