What's going on lately? A lack of rock that's what's going for the last months. Since summer (a month in Targasonne) I didn't climb outside. It is one of the downsides of living in the Netherlands, we have no rock! Ok Font is not too far away but still a 5 to 6 hour drive and that simply didn't work out. This didn't mean that nothing happened. I kind of lost my motivation for competitions, that's the reason that I quit the Dutch team. Next year no worldcups for me. Why I lost my motivation for comps is all bit blurry for me, I think part of the disappointing results but also due to my ambitions on rock.
The motivation to perform well on real rock is just a lot bigger for me and because of a busier schedule I had to make a choice. The fact that I quit the international competition scene doesn't mean I lost my motivation to train. Thanks to a new bouldergym close to my home motivation even might have grown. Delfts Bleau is the first bouldergym near Rotterdam (only a 10 min drive for mRead More...
Moon Board T-shirt Competition
Okay now’s your chance to get both creative and on the front of a new Moon Board t-shirt!
We are currently working on some new t-shirt graphics and one of the ideas we are playing with is a montage of climbers Moon Boards. There are already some nice photos of your Moon Boards on the Moon Climbing website but we would like to see if you can do even better. The winning entries will get a free t-shirt and the glory that goes with being on the front of a Moon Climbing t-shirt. If you would like to give this a go you can use any of the following methods to send us your photos.
Upload to the Moon Climbing Facebook page.
Upload to the Moon Board website.
Email your files via the Moon Climbing website.
We don't have any special requests we just want good photos. They could be black and white or colour and could be with or without a climber, use your imagination but nothing that's going to ofRead More...
It has been too long ago since my last blog post. This spring I have trained indoor, studied a lot (I achieved my Bachelor degree in sociology) and did some comps. Due to finger injuries and study stress I messed up the boulder Worldcups in Log Dragomer and Vienna, because of that I decided to skip the Innsbruck comp to give my fingers some rest. In that period I still went to the gym but I didn't do any rock climbing. That changed in August, the plan was to go to Targasonne for a month! On the third of August we left to the Pyrenees, I felt physical fit and, with my Bachelor degree in the pocket, mentally strong. My goals where high, I wanted to send three 8b's (in perspective, I only did one 8b boulder before this trip).
Targasonne is positioned in the middle of the beautiful Pyrenees on the French side of French/Spanish border. Because of its high altitude (approximately 1500m) it is suitable for summer bouldering. It is still hot on midday but the mornings and evenings are coolRead More...
I returned home from my summer trip to France with an 8a red point, lots of other routes, a good tan and a feeling that I could, if I wanted to, get in a really great shape in a short period of time. But since the next international competitions I will be participating in is not set until october and november I chose to take it easy and enjoy what was left of my summer vacation.
However, this weekend on the 1st of september there was a competition located near the place I live. In Aalborg at the harbour frontage, a Deep Water Solo contest took place. Of course I had to participate!
In this life there is only one thing that I really, deeply hate; cold water. Even in the summer when it is 30 degrees outside and most people just dives into the nearest bathing place as quick as possible, it can actually take more than half an hour for me just to get my feet into the water. So to contest in a Deep Water Solo contest above a harbour has never even occurred as a possibility for Read More...
I can finally write a new blog! :)
In the last months I have been very busy with school because I had the exams, but luckily the school is over and now I can climb seriously.
I trained a lot because I had some Italian Cup competitions to participate in.
-Italy Boulder Cup in Ivrea: 7th place
-Italy Boulder Cup in Firenze: 29th place (my worst comp, I was not really in shape).
-Italy Boulder Cup in Gressoney: 5th place (my best result, I was in the final with five other athletes, I was so happy.)
Some bouldering outside thatRead More...
Although I might have been a bit slack in re-releasing my old climbing diaries, back in June and July of 1990 I was definitely not slacking. Fresh from my success on Hubble, the worlds first 8c+ my attentions have turned to the world cup leading comps in Spain and Italy in a few weeks time. After focusing on strength for the past few months it’s now time to work my endurance and on sight skills in preparation for the up and coming competitions.
24th June 1990
“Kilnsey. Warm up. Try Dreamtime. Fall. Do it second try. Bad weather, tried The Bulge. Fall near top. Felt good on it. Pumped out. Try redpoint, fall same place! Very greasy. Medium day”.
I vaguely remember this day, both trying and failing to onsight both these routes.
25th June 1990
“Filmed Hubble then pumped out hard. Body Machine, up and down Indecent ExRead More...
Text by David Falt
Some significant events have taken place lately. The american wonder girl Sasha Digulian sent her second 9a by repeating Chris Sharma's Era Vella, 9a in Margalef after six days of work. This is a stunning performance by any standards.
Swedish Matilda Söderlund went to Spain on an virtual onsight rampage earning her headlines in a number of climbing magazines for her three 8b onsights and up on returning the other day she flashed a 8b+.
MOON Climber Martin Keller sent his project "Der Mit den Fels Tanzt" fro witch Martin proposed 8C. Martin spent more that 100 days working the project. We at MOON Climbing are super happy for you Martin and we hope this send will inspire you to try new "impossible" project and turn them around and send them.
In the category of stubborn super achievements we have to mention Catalan female climber Silvia Vidal's new route, Espiadimonis (6b, A4, IV+ 1500m) onRead More...
Up until now this year has been pretty uneventful for me. There has only been three things worth mentioning, actually.
The first event of the year was the Nordic Championships in bouldering. The competition were held in Copenhagen, Denmark which suited me quite well, since I have been there for both training and competing many times. It is an amazing gym with an amazing crew, who arranged the competition very well! I finished the qualification round in second place. In the finals I flashed the first and the last problem. With two tops I won the competition! I was very happy (Congratulations from us at MOON! )