From the very 1st of january I had 25 days to get as ready as possible to participate in the first competition of the year! The competition was located in Copenhagen. It was the first round of a new concept called The Annual Cup, which is a new addition to the line of danish bouldering cups. With only 25 days to get fit I had to train every single day.
Surprisingly, to myself as well as to others I must imagine, the get-fit-in-20-days project seemed to work! My guess is that after a relaxed holiday over Christmas, my body must have been completely recovered from any kind of overloading. Plus, I made sure that I ate properly and enough every single day as well, and got all the hours of sleep needed to be able to rest and recover as much as possible over night and therefore be able to train without getting any injuries the following day.
On the day of the competition I felt ready to climb. 42 problems had been put up and we all had 5 hours to do as many as possible. At the end of tRead More...
Before heading out to Siruana I received a text message from ex British Bouldering Champion Gareth Parry inviting me to compete in one of his Bloc Fest competitions. Since the comp was the next day it was a bit last minute and I had to decline. Strangely the invite coincided with a dream I had had the night before in which I was back in the competition arena. Goodness knows what Freud would have made of that, midlife crisis perhaps?
Anyway whilst in Siruana I had the crazy idea of entering a Moon team in the up and coming CWIF competition at The Climbing Works. After a few phone calls and text messages I had recruited British junior champion Molly-Thompson Smith, young talent Tom Newman, my friend and Climbing Works regular Bob Smith and some old has been called Ben Moon.
Since returning from Siruana work and family commitments have meant that my climbing and training have taken a back seat but in a token effort to prepare for CWIF I did squeeze in one session at The Climbing WorRead More...
So the year passed by, just like that - or so it feels, now, afterwards, when I can do nothing about anything that happened but leaf through the memories and events in my mind.
To make what could have been a very long story very short I have chosen a few events just to summon up an outline of 2012 from my perspective. I have purposely chosen not to write (whine) about injuries, school and other depressing stuff even though I must admit that these has been kind of my own constant moan at times. One thing I will confirm, however, is that right now I have a stress fracture on my right shin-bone due to overtraining. Some scans revealed it a few weeks ago. And to make this a non-whining statement (like I just promised to save everyone from), I want to say that this will be over soon enough and that I can now fully climb agin. So no excuses.
Here are an outline of some of the main events with matching pictures from my 2012! Enjoy.
What's going on lately? A lack of rock that's what's going for the last months. Since summer (a month in Targasonne) I didn't climb outside. It is one of the downsides of living in the Netherlands, we have no rock! Ok Font is not too far away but still a 5 to 6 hour drive and that simply didn't work out. This didn't mean that nothing happened. I kind of lost my motivation for competitions, that's the reason that I quit the Dutch team. Next year no worldcups for me. Why I lost my motivation for comps is all bit blurry for me, I think part of the disappointing results but also due to my ambitions on rock.
The motivation to perform well on real rock is just a lot bigger for me and because of a busier schedule I had to make a choice. The fact that I quit the international competition scene doesn't mean I lost my motivation to train. Thanks to a new bouldergym close to my home motivation even might have grown. Delfts Bleau is the first bouldergym near Rotterdam (only a 10 min drive for mRead More...
Moon Board T-shirt Competition
Okay now’s your chance to get both creative and on the front of a new Moon Board t-shirt!
We are currently working on some new t-shirt graphics and one of the ideas we are playing with is a montage of climbers Moon Boards. There are already some nice photos of your Moon Boards on the Moon Climbing website but we would like to see if you can do even better. The winning entries will get a free t-shirt and the glory that goes with being on the front of a Moon Climbing t-shirt. If you would like to give this a go you can use any of the following methods to send us your photos.
Upload to the Moon Climbing Facebook page.
Upload to the Moon Board website.
Email your files via the Moon Climbing website.
We don't have any special requests we just want good photos. They could be black and white or colour and could be with or without a climber, use your imagination but nothing that's going to ofRead More...
It has been too long ago since my last blog post. This spring I have trained indoor, studied a lot (I achieved my Bachelor degree in sociology) and did some comps. Due to finger injuries and study stress I messed up the boulder Worldcups in Log Dragomer and Vienna, because of that I decided to skip the Innsbruck comp to give my fingers some rest. In that period I still went to the gym but I didn't do any rock climbing. That changed in August, the plan was to go to Targasonne for a month! On the third of August we left to the Pyrenees, I felt physical fit and, with my Bachelor degree in the pocket, mentally strong. My goals where high, I wanted to send three 8b's (in perspective, I only did one 8b boulder before this trip).
Targasonne is positioned in the middle of the beautiful Pyrenees on the French side of French/Spanish border. Because of its high altitude (approximately 1500m) it is suitable for summer bouldering. It is still hot on midday but the mornings and evenings are coolRead More...
I returned home from my summer trip to France with an 8a red point, lots of other routes, a good tan and a feeling that I could, if I wanted to, get in a really great shape in a short period of time. But since the next international competitions I will be participating in is not set until october and november I chose to take it easy and enjoy what was left of my summer vacation.
However, this weekend on the 1st of september there was a competition located near the place I live. In Aalborg at the harbour frontage, a Deep Water Solo contest took place. Of course I had to participate!
In this life there is only one thing that I really, deeply hate; cold water. Even in the summer when it is 30 degrees outside and most people just dives into the nearest bathing place as quick as possible, it can actually take more than half an hour for me just to get my feet into the water. So to contest in a Deep Water Solo contest above a harbour has never even occurred as a possibility for Read More...
I can finally write a new blog! :)
In the last months I have been very busy with school because I had the exams, but luckily the school is over and now I can climb seriously.
I trained a lot because I had some Italian Cup competitions to participate in.
-Italy Boulder Cup in Ivrea: 7th place
-Italy Boulder Cup in Firenze: 29th place (my worst comp, I was not really in shape).
-Italy Boulder Cup in Gressoney: 5th place (my best result, I was in the final with five other athletes, I was so happy.)
Some bouldering outside thatRead More...