Although I might have been a bit slack in re-releasing my old climbing diaries, back in June and July of 1990 I was definitely not slacking. Fresh from my success on Hubble, the worlds first 8c+ my attentions have turned to the world cup leading comps in Spain and Italy in a few weeks time. After focusing on strength for the past few months it’s now time to work my endurance and on sight skills in preparation for the up and coming competitions.
24th June 1990
“Kilnsey. Warm up. Try Dreamtime. Fall. Do it second try. Bad weather, tried The Bulge. Fall near top. Felt good on it. Pumped out. Try redpoint, fall same place! Very greasy. Medium day”.
I vaguely remember this day, both trying and failing to onsight both these routes.
25th June 1990
“Filmed Hubble then pumped out hard. Body Machine, up and down Indecent ExRead More...
Text by David Falt
Some significant events have taken place lately. The american wonder girl Sasha Digulian sent her second 9a by repeating Chris Sharma's Era Vella, 9a in Margalef after six days of work. This is a stunning performance by any standards.
Swedish Matilda Söderlund went to Spain on an virtual onsight rampage earning her headlines in a number of climbing magazines for her three 8b onsights and up on returning the other day she flashed a 8b+.
MOON Climber Martin Keller sent his project "Der Mit den Fels Tanzt" fro witch Martin proposed 8C. Martin spent more that 100 days working the project. We at MOON Climbing are super happy for you Martin and we hope this send will inspire you to try new "impossible" project and turn them around and send them.
In the category of stubborn super achievements we have to mention Catalan female climber Silvia Vidal's new route, Espiadimonis (6b, A4, IV+ 1500m) onRead More...
Up until now this year has been pretty uneventful for me. There has only been three things worth mentioning, actually.
The first event of the year was the Nordic Championships in bouldering. The competition were held in Copenhagen, Denmark which suited me quite well, since I have been there for both training and competing many times. It is an amazing gym with an amazing crew, who arranged the competition very well! I finished the qualification round in second place. In the finals I flashed the first and the last problem. With two tops I won the competition! I was very happy (Congratulations from us at MOON! )
In the beginning of this year I decided to compete on the World Cup in Log, like last year. It’s been a year since my last World Cup competition and I thought it could be fun and also good for me to train with the whole team. So I did it, but it didn't work out as I wanted. Yesterday, (22.4.2012) I finished 19th in the semifinals. But it all went wrong a few weeks before.
Like I said, I trained with the team since January. It was pretty hard for me to keep up with them. But I thought, this way, I’ll get really strong for the competition and after it I could send some hard stuff outside. Then I pulled my little finger 3 weeks before the competition. First I thought it’s nothing but then it bothered me every time I wanted to crimp something. So I avoided crimps for some time and hopped for the best. I really tried to stay positive. Like this wasn't enough, I caught a terrible cold a week before and with all that trouble I kind of lost my psyche.
Yesterday, April 14th 2012, the Austrian Bouldering Nationals were held in Kitzbühel,Tirol.
This year I decided to take a break of the comp scene because I am doing my diploma at Uni besides working half time so there would not be much room and time flexibility for comps and I'd rather spend my free time on the rock than on comp walls. But the nationals were one of the events I wanted to attend anyway so I was well excited when the day came and we drove to the comp site.
We all headed down to the Churnet to check out the amazing looking Ina's Rock. This is a truly awesome piece of weathered sandstone hidden away in the woods, with two classic highball/solo's side by side. With a big team and the biggest load of crash pads I've ever seen, we were ready for action! First line to go down was Thumberlina (highball V6 or E6), this is a brilliant