And another one of the multiyear-projects down - it was one of the oldest undone projects left in Brione - happy times - could get used to that :)
First Ascent of "NIKE, 8B+", Brione, Switzerland. Pic by angelawagner.ch
There was a lot of rain
lately and many of the visiting "cracks" escaped Swizzy or went to Mellobloco. But then weather in Swizzy is pretty unpredictable. Out of the nowhere we got a short window of crazy foen-wind that dried everything in a few hours and pleased the climbers with some of the best conditions ever!!!
Well the headline says it all doesn't it?! If it does not for you, then you may like to read the following story of a climbing journey that began back in 2005 at Sustenpass, Switzerland.
A long journey has come to a happy (se)end.
Nine years ago some friends and I were working on the classic "Traumland, 8A" at Sustenpass and I was wondering if there would be a possibility to a sitdownstart to the boulder left of it which has the lovely name of "Pitbull". My friends dismissed the possibility. I had an idea but never really went on to try because it seemed just wayRead More...
That’s WHY I climb - it can't get much better!!! Imagine a massive 12m long 80degrees overhanging granite-prow, heel/toe hooks, funky/tricky, and powerful compressions-moves all the way to the top -“Sanoku” - in Ticino - never ever seen something like that - never ever had climbed so many good moves in a row!!! It is pure perfection from the sitdownstart to the top. For a compression-fanatic like myself it’s just the Holy Grail ;) Thanx so much to Andi and Fabian for putting up that boulder!
First day I had a nice session with Fabi and Andi. It was great to get all the tricky beta for once instead of spending hours/days by my own looking for a good solution. After getting a cold and some snow went down in Ticino I was back two weeks later. I still could not believe how good the climbing was. And as I like(d) it so much I just had to "climb" it three times in a row ;)
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Me and my boyfriend Gu spent nearly the whole February in Tenerife for rope climbing and bouldering. Meanwhile Gu was focused on bouldering, I spent most of the time for rope climbing – and this is one of the best things about Tenerife: If there is a rope-climbing area, there is always a bunch of Blocs lying around wait to be climbed in its perfection. Gu was as usually super quick with repeating all boulders and he did so many first ascends that I was already after one week scared, he could get bored, BUT “fortunately” he found this super project witch wasn’t climbed for more than 10 years – although there were a lot of strong people trying it.
Meanwhile he was spending time on that project, I couldn’t get enough of all the rope climbs. There are so many areas with a lot of routes from steep to totally overhanging and there is endless potential for new routes and clean climbing (because of all the cracks). The only problem for me about Tenerife was – getting resting dRead More...
On 27th of January I did 4th ascent of superclassic Il Marattoneta (8b+) in Paklenica, Croatia. It is famous, historic line and one of those which name speaks thousand words. I saw it first time in 1997., 10 years after Maurizio Zanolla Manolo did his epic first ascent and in period when route still didnt have any repeats. It looked unreal good, just like today and I was impressed by Manolo’s vision of the line. Altough I was 15 year old boy and didnt know much about climbing, I was sure this is kind of routes I want to climb and search for.
In the following years I gave all energy to develop my climbing skills while Marattoneta saw first repeats by Slowenian aces Perko and Lukič. I took my chance to try it few times but couldn't offer much more than checking the moves.
Last year we met again and I felt I was ready to climb it but summer temperatures and humidity shut me down. This is why I decide to come back in clear and cold winter days, my favorite part of the year. The daRead More...
Last fall, when I did the Swiss/Italian route on Cima Ovest leading every pitch ground up onsight, I knew it was only the beginning of something bigger. I knew I had to keep exploring the routes in Tre Cime. The idea of trying to do three big routes in the Dolomites started to form in my head. What was growing on me was a sense that I really wanted to try and push myself on the walls of Tre Cime and in the Dolomites.
An evolving process
I knew that the routes I wanted to do in Tre Cime were much more demanding both mentally and physically compared to the Swiss route. In order to pull them off I would need to devote much more time to training than I usually do to get stronger. Normally I spend all winter and spring ice climbing and alpine climbing but this winter and spring of 2012 I devoted to staying in shape on rock, doing some indoor climbing as well as benefitting from excellent conditions in St Leger in February and March.
The goal to do the trilRead More...
Text by David Falt
Some significant events have taken place lately. The american wonder girl Sasha Digulian sent her second 9a by repeating Chris Sharma's Era Vella, 9a in Margalef after six days of work. This is a stunning performance by any standards.
Swedish Matilda Söderlund went to Spain on an virtual onsight rampage earning her headlines in a number of climbing magazines for her three 8b onsights and up on returning the other day she flashed a 8b+.
MOON Climber Martin Keller sent his project "Der Mit den Fels Tanzt" fro witch Martin proposed 8C. Martin spent more that 100 days working the project. We at MOON Climbing are super happy for you Martin and we hope this send will inspire you to try new "impossible" project and turn them around and send them.
In the category of stubborn super achievements we have to mention Catalan female climber Silvia Vidal's new route, Espiadimonis (6b, A4, IV+ 1500m) onRead More...