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Lead Climbing

Showing 1 to 8 of 50 posts

Statement of Youth anniversary film

It seems hard to believe but it was 30 years ago back in 1984, aged just 18 that I made the first ascent of the UK’s 2nd 8a Statement of Youth. At the time it caused quite a stir in the climbing world not because of it’s difficulty but because I had used 7 bolts to climb it. To those not familiar with climbing in the 1980s this might seem pretty strange but back then sport climbing in the UK didn’t exist. Although it would take a few years this was all going to change and Statement played a big part in this change. During the past 30 years I have made several 1st ascents around the world but there are none that I am more proud of than Statement of Youth. Located at Lower Pen-Trwyn (LPT to most people) on the Great Orme in North Wales the route takes a line up the right-hand side of the steep left hand section of the cliff. With no particular crux section but very sustained at the grade it’s a right of passage for the sport climber aspiring to the magical 8th grade. To celebrate [...] Read More...

1 to 100

Few weeks ago I reached number of 99 FA Read More...

One year after

Last weeks I have been enjoying ideal climbing combination Read More...

Spring in Spain

Sometimes it Read More...

Ups & Downs

Last few months turned into totally unexpected direction. I was just starting to feel light and strong Read More...

Think more, climb more

Getting back into shape after giving birth is not a simple task but so far I am very pleased how it goes. I am enjoying the whole process and my climbing definitely improved since the last blog. Want to share few thoughts I Read More...

Smells like Alpine-Spirit

This year I started my outdoor season in Gorge du Verdon. After one week of multi pitch climbing every boulder, and sport climb felt simply like a joke (not because I was too strong, but because of the height). Read More...

Summer Edition

As I promised in the last blog - I took my first longer out of climbing period since 1996.. Didn't climb for more than 2 months but there was a lot going on so I didn't feel like it was proper rest. Still not sure is it because I became father recently (!!!) or maybe I just don't know how to rest.

In the meantime I accepted invitation to become the chief coach of the Croatia youth sport climbing team. It will be hard to find free time for all the work I have to do on this position (specially because I allready work full time on another place) but since for many years in a row nobody have the idea what to do with all those talented Croatian kids, I decided to give a try. Hope we can make some progress in the next 4 years and steer all those young guns in the right direction.

Allready on my first climbing days after rest I felt that conditions are getting worse. Summer was [...] Read More...

Showing 1 to 8 of 50 posts