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Lead Climbing

Showing 1 to 8 of 50 posts

Statement of Youth anniversary film

It seems hard to believe but it was 30 years ago back in 1984, aged just 18 that I made the first ascent of the UK?s 2nd 8a Statement of Youth. At the time it caused quite a stir in the climbing world not because of it?s difficulty but because I had used 7 bolts to climb it. To those not familiar with climbing in the 1980s this might seem pretty strange but back then sport climbing in the UK didn?t exist. Although it would take a few years this was all going to change and Statement played a big part in this change. During the past 30 years I have made several 1st ascents around the world but there are none that I am more proud of than Statement of Youth. Located at Lower Pen-Trwyn (LPT to most people) on the Great Orme in North Wales the route takes a line up the right-hand side of the steep left hand section of the cliff. With no particular crux section but very sustained at the grade it?s a right of passage for the sport climber aspiring to the magical 8th grade. To celebrate its Read More...

From furious summer into autumn tranquility

This summer I started to work on Vukowar project, the one of The Big Four, while the half of the line was still wet. I worked the route in a very structured sessions, usually doing laps on critical parts and climbing them in very precise style and slow pace, almost like doing french blow on every single move in a row. I know it is modern to go fast like Ondra these days but I still like to work on moves in a slow style and than just add some extra speed when I go for real. Anyway, I knew there will be just a small time window when the route will be completly dry and I worked like a maniac to get fit and confident for that moment. It was true. Vukowar got dry and it lasted for just around 2 weeks, but it was enough. I was totally prepaired and I did FA in literally first real try. It is always a great feeling and privilege to climb such a special lines but since I often emotionaly connect with them I cant escape some sorrow oncRead More...

One year after

Last weeks I have been enjoying ideal climbing combination - good form and nice weather. Since the last blog I have continued with slow and steady progression. In rainy periods I did lots of indoor climbing where I got a bit stronger, luckily without any injury.

The rest of the time I was out


on the rock as much as possible and on the mission to chase the lines from my ticklist, manily composed of numerous old debtors. To climb these lines that I already failed is usually pain in the ass. I bet it is allways much easyer to do the new „hard“ route than „easy“ old one which doesnt fit your style.

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Spring in Spain

Sometimes it’s nice to escape from the cold weather here in Sweden. The darkness, all the snow and the lack of good outdoor climbing days. Therefore, me my dad and two good friends of ours went to Siurana for a week. Finally, I had the opportunity to do what all the indoor climbing training was meant for-


outdoor climbing!

What can I say about Siurana? Well, it was just fantastic, amazing and super cool, I'm already longing back! The start of the week was really nice with blue skies and warm weather, enough to burn four pale swedes. But unfortunately we also had some cold and windy days.

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Ups & Downs

Last few months turned into totally unexpected direction. I was just starting to feel light and strong when something snaped in my righ middle finger during one gym session. I already had problems with tendon sheets from time to time but this was something different and I immediately knew that I ruined few months of good training and will have to start once over again. So instead climbing outside on the premiere Dalmatian limestone in cool autumn conditions I ended up indoor on physiotherapy sessions at my friend Goran Vratarić. He treated my finger with microwaves, magnet, ultrasound, massage and we included elbow into the sessions since it hurted from time to time due to 2mm calcification I had on right medial condil. In the meanwhile my climbing club Marulianus finally signed rent contract for the place where we will build our new climbing gym. It is a huge project and once finished this will surely be the biggest climbing gym in Croatia. Beside great boulder area etc. , tRead More...

Think more, climb more

Getting back into shape after giving birth is not a simple task but so far I am very pleased how it goes. I am enjoying the whole process and my climbing definitely improved since the last blog. Want to share few thoughts I ´ve been thinking about lately: - Repeat old routes - often! - Save some (easy) lines – you ´ll need them! - Keep the team spirit!   Repeating the old routes that you already climbed once, doesnt make much sence if you have chance to non-stop travel like a pro. But, since majority of us spend the most of the time on our local spots, repeating the old routes (not counting those for warm up) should be done daily. My husband does this pretty often and I remember that he told me few times how it is good thing to do from time to time and for many reasons. Honestly I never thought about this much but now I understand what he was talking about. These days I am often thrilled with the quality and the beauty of this forgotten routes. I did them once, movRead More...

Smells like Alpine-Spirit

This year I started my outdoor season in Gorge du Verdon. After one week of multipitch-climbing every boulder, and every sportsclimb felt simply like a joke (not because I was too strong, but because of the height).  So this summer, as I got injured at my finger too, I was in the perfect mood to try alpine routes.As I spend most of my „climbing-career“ in bouldering and sportsclimbing it is pretty exciting to climb in an alpine area as Rätikon.Already after 2 days there, I found a „new“ passion. Over the years I got stronger in climbing, but never went seriously to alpine stuff. And u can believe me: it’s like starting climbing again (at least on the first days).Just few days ago I had to lead my first route – from the bottom to the top. Hell, u can not believe how proud I was about myself not starting to cry and getting more and more used to climb mostly all parts „just“ with my feet. It was amazing to see, how small the „holds“ and how flat the steps can be – Read More...

Summer Edition

As I promised in the last blog - I took my first longer out of climbing period since 1996.. Didn't climb for more than 2 months but there was a lot going on so I didn't feel like it was proper rest. Still not sure is it because I became father recently (!!!) or maybe I just don't know how to rest.

In the meantime I accepted invitation to become the chief coach of the Croatia youth sport climbing team. It will be hard to find free time for all the work I have to do on this position (specially because I allready work full time on another place) but since for many years in a row nobody have the idea what to do with all those talented Croatian kids, I decided to give a try. Hope we can make some progress in the next 4 years and steer all those young guns in the right direction.

Allready on my first climbing days after rest I felt that conditions are getting worse. Summer was justRead More...

Showing 1 to 8 of 50 posts