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Showing 9 to 16 of 55 posts

Spring in Spain

Sometimes it’s nice to escape from the cold weather here in Sweden. The darkness, all the snow and the lack of good outdoor climbing days. Therefore, me my dad and two good friends of ours went to Siurana for a week. Finally, I had the opportunity to do what all the indoor climbing training was meant for-


outdoor climbing!

What can I say about Siurana? Well, it was just fantastic, amazing and super cool, I'm already longing back! The start of the week was really nice with blue skies and warm weather, enough to burn four pale swedes. But unfortunately we also had some cold and windy days.

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Ups & Downs

Last few months turned into totally unexpected direction. I was just starting to feel light and strong when something snaped in my righ middle finger during one gym session. I already had problems with tendon sheets from time to time but this was something different and I immediately knew that I ruined few months of good training and will have to start once over again. So instead climbing outside on the premiere Dalmatian limestone in cool autumn conditions I ended up indoor on physiotherapy sessions at my friend Goran Vratarić. He treated my finger with microwaves, magnet, ultrasound, massage and we included elbow into the sessions since it hurted from time to time due to 2mm calcification I had on right medial condil. In the meanwhile my climbing club Marulianus finally signed rent contract for the place where we will build our new climbing gym. It is a huge project and once finished this will surely be the biggest climbing gym in Croatia. Beside great boulder area etc. , tRead More...

Think more, climb more

Getting back into shape after giving birth is not a simple task but so far I am very pleased how it goes. I am enjoying the whole process and my climbing definitely improved since the last blog. Want to share few thoughts I ´ve been thinking about lately: - Repeat old routes - often! - Save some (easy) lines – you ´ll need them! - Keep the team spirit!   Repeating the old routes that you already climbed once, doesnt make much sence if you have chance to non-stop travel like a pro. But, since majority of us spend the most of the time on our local spots, repeating the old routes (not counting those for warm up) should be done daily. My husband does this pretty often and I remember that he told me few times how it is good thing to do from time to time and for many reasons. Honestly I never thought about this much but now I understand what he was talking about. These days I am often thrilled with the quality and the beauty of this forgotten routes. I did them once, movRead More...

Smells like Alpine-Spirit

This year I started my outdoor season in Gorge du Verdon. After one week of multipitch-climbing every boulder, and every sportsclimb felt simply like a joke (not because I was too strong, but because of the height).  So this summer, as I got injured at my finger too, I was in the perfect mood to try alpine routes.As I spend most of my „climbing-career“ in bouldering and sportsclimbing it is pretty exciting to climb in an alpine area as Rätikon.Already after 2 days there, I found a „new“ passion. Over the years I got stronger in climbing, but never went seriously to alpine stuff. And u can believe me: it’s like starting climbing again (at least on the first days).Just few days ago I had to lead my first route – from the bottom to the top. Hell, u can not believe how proud I was about myself not starting to cry and getting more and more used to climb mostly all parts „just“ with my feet. It was amazing to see, how small the „holds“ and how flat the steps can be – Read More...

Summer Edition

As I promised in the last blog - I took my first longer out of climbing period since 1996.. Didn't climb for more than 2 months but there was a lot going on so I didn't feel like it was proper rest. Still not sure is it because I became father recently (!!!) or maybe I just don't know how to rest.

In the meantime I accepted invitation to become the chief coach of the Croatia youth sport climbing team. It will be hard to find free time for all the work I have to do on this position (specially because I allready work full time on another place) but since for many years in a row nobody have the idea what to do with all those talented Croatian kids, I decided to give a try. Hope we can make some progress in the next 4 years and steer all those young guns in the right direction.

Allready on my first climbing days after rest I felt that conditions are getting worse. Summer was justRead More...

Came back in the Crush Mode!

  • 10.08.2013- by Ben Moon
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In my latest months I spend my “Climbing time” in Gressoney Valley, in a cliff called La Benedizione that is In my opinion the best crag in Aosta Valley. All the routes are completely natural, crazy rock and it is situated in a special place, near a big waterfall and mountain meadows

My project this year was Devils and Dust 8a+ that as the most lines here is downgraded so I spend 4 days of hard work to get the chain. The First day I tried the whole line to figure out the right beta but I felt the two cruxes really hard and I seemed to have no chance. The route was such impressive so I was looking forward to try it again.

The days after I managed to link the two cruxes and to have good attempts aRead More...

Climbing in Briancon

I recently came home from 2-weeks of climbing in the Briancon area and the climbing was over expectations! The place was a good choice for me and my family since we wanted to go in the summertime but didn't want to climb in the heat. And of course it was a great opportunity to visit our friend David and his family.

First of all I want to thank David for making this trip so awesome, showing us the best crags, routes, the best coaching and for letting me an Norea train on his fingerboard. It was much appreciated!

Moon athlete David looking strong (editors note: he looks fat...)

 

I could never have dreamed about how good it actually went for me. Although I had been sick and recently had a 5-weeks period witRead More...

Progressing backwards?

Not sure I have much to contribute with when it comes to hard sport climbing, in fact I think I have lees than zero to add as I'm such a mediocre climber. I'm outright lost in the world of pulling hard. Last year I spent an enormous amount of time redpointing an 8a+ and yes I'm happy I sent it but not overwhelmed with joy. After that ordeal I promised my self I would go for volume and not spend more than two or maximum three tries on any thing this year. How ever I have two routes in Tre Cime I like to pull off this summer and they both go free at 7c+ and 8a with multiple 7b to 7c pitches. So I figure I need to get some max power in me and not just stamina. Now this redpoint swampland is hard to get out of. When I start to invest time and effort in to a route its kind of becomes important to send it. How come? What is really the point of climbing half a grade up or down? EGO! Its all about ego I guess. For me the process of trying harder routes are actually both demotivating and depreRead More...

Showing 9 to 16 of 55 posts