In my latest months I spendmy “Climbing time” in Gressoney Valley, in a cliff called La Benedizionethat isIn my opinion the best crag in Aosta Valley. All the routes are completely natural, crazy rock and it is situated in a special place, near a big waterfalland mountain meadows
My project this year was Devils and Dust 8a+ that as the most lines here is downgraded so I spend 4 days of hard work to get the chain. The First day I tried the whole line to figure out the right beta but I felt the two cruxes really hard and I seemed to have no chance. The route was such impressive so I was looking forward to try it again.
The days after I managed to link the two cruxes and to have good attempts aRead More...
I recently came home from 2-weeks of climbing in the Briancon area and the climbing was over expectations! The place was a good choice for me and my family since we wanted to go in the summertime but didn't want to climb in the heat. And of course it was a great opportunity to visit our friend David and his family.
First of all I want to thank David for making this trip so awesome, showing us the best crags, routes, the best coaching and for letting me an Norea train on his fingerboard. It was much appreciated!
Moon athlete David looking strong (editors note: he looks fat...)
I could never have dreamed about how good it actually went for me. Although I had been sick and recently had a 5-weeks period witRead More...
Not sure I have much to contribute with when it comes to hard sport climbing, in fact I think I have lees than zero to add as I'm such a mediocre climber. I'm outright lost in the world of pulling hard. Last year I spent an enormous amount of time redpointing an 8a+ and yes I'm happy I sent it but not overwhelmed with joy. After that ordeal I promised my self I would go for volume and not spend more than two or maximum three tries on any thing this year. How ever I have two routes in Tre Cime I like to pull off this summer and they both go free at 7c+ and 8a with multiple 7b to 7c pitches. So I figure I need to get some max power in me and not just stamina.
Now this redpoint swampland is hard to get out of. When I start to invest time and effort in to a route its kind of becomes important to send it. How come? What is really the point of climbing half a grade up or down? EGO! Its all about ego I guess. For me the process of trying harder routes are actually both demotivating and depreRead More...
It ‘s been a four months since I gave birth to a small boy named Franko. Pregnancy was a real adventure but nothing compared to excitements of these days. Sure all parents know exactly what I am talking about :-) . Life has changed a lot but definitely for better and I truly enjoy it.
First month after cesarean cut was pretty tough. Generally I was happy and proud but in physically aspect felt horrible. Though I tried to prepair the best I can for those post surgery effects I was pretty shocked with how weak I was. Still two weeks after surgery I could hardly endure a five minute walk around the block and it took me a while to accept this condition.
The turning point in my recovery happened at the beginning of the May when I jumped into the sea for the first time. The water was still cold and I felt amazing blood rush through the whole body. This healing breath of life made me so alive again and probably this was the moment when I started to think about cliRead More...
Ramasuri is a German word for excitement, chaos, confusion, tohubohu, mess, unrest, riot, jumble... All the sweet things we are a little scared about, but at the same time we need and adore as a counterdraft to the output-driven and comprehensive covered life we live.
Ramasuri ist also the name of a legend 8c+ Loskot route that worked my mind and fingers
During the winter month snow covered the austrian alps and makes them even more beautiful. In the morning hours my skis were launched almost every day. The evening hours I found myself in the surrounding gyms for some serious training or some other, not so serious, monkeying around. :)
In the beginning of april my outsideseason starts with a nice eastertrip to cataluna spain, where I could climb the fivestarroute 'Paper Mullat' 8b+/c in oliana. The 45 meter of tufapumping took me three days. It was quite challenging, considering the sixmoveplasticbouldershizzle I was used to.
Great time, great crew, great routes... cataluna is dope :)
Back in Vienna I started bolting some new projekts I am currently working on. Nice steep and not so steep limestone in styria :). In between the rain I catched some good conditions for my propably hardest slapclimb to date: 'himmel ohne wolken' 8b (hard to great) the 20 meter slap affords a lot of rubber and nerves. Another nice 8a firstascent isRead More...
One more winter season is officialy closed. Spent it mainly on area Markezina greda - the homeland of great lines and hard climbing.
It was long time ago since I stopped couting days spent on project known as Prvomajski zajeb. Although in the beginning it felt nearly immposible, from the moment I fell in love with this line, there was no way back. I invested unlimited amount of time and energy into it and last autumn I started to feel significant progress. Finally I reach the level to give serious attempts and was very pleased about that.
(Photo above: In the lower section...)
Prvomajski zajeb is power-endurance testpiece, slightly overhangiRead More...
March 27, 2013
In November 2012, one night in the gym friend Gian (Tesio), talking about where to go climbing, I noticing a line still to be climbed.
I was looking at "boulder" that collapsed some 80 years ago. This route was bolted by Renato Delfino and Guido Cortese. Much to my surprise no one had climbed this majestic route. I decided to go and try, but thanks to the adverse weather I soon I forget the project and had surgery on my right shoulder .
After the rehabilitation, I was quite surprised to progress quite fast on the route as I worked it.
The route is beautiful! Its quite complex and physical climbing . Be safe as you clip the last bolt as you can hit the deck if you are not careful... (bring a crash pad!)
After the first giuornate study of the way, I decided to stay for too cold heading toward another project Finale more winter and sunny .. but the first mild days and decided to try again on the first day (Thursday) coming close to climb up in a almost perfecRead More...