One more winter season is officialy closed. Spent it mainly on area Markezina greda - the homeland of great lines and hard climbing.
It was long time ago since I stopped couting days spent on project known as Prvomajski zajeb. Although in the beginning it felt nearly immposible, from the moment I fell in love with this line, there was no way back. I invested unlimited amount of time and energy into it and last autumn I started to feel significant progress. Finally I reach the level to give serious attempts and was very pleased about that.
March 27, 2013
In November 2012, one night in the gym friend Gian (Tesio), talking about where to go climbing, I noticing a line still to be climbed.
I was looking at "boulder" that collapsed some 80 years ago. This route was bolted by Renato Delfino and Guido Cortese. Much to my surprise no one had climbed this majestic route. I decided to go and try, but thanks to the adverse weather I soon I forget the project and had surgery on my right shoulder .
After the rehabilitation, I was quite surprised to progress quite fast on the route as I worked it.
The route is beautiful! Its quite complex and physical climbing . Be safe as you clip the last bolt as you can hit the deck if you are not careful... (bring a crash pad!)
After the first giuornate study of the way, I decided to stay for too cold heading toward another project Finale more winter and sunny .. but the first mild days and decided to try again on the first day (Thursday) coming close to climb up in a almost perfecRead More...
Last autumn with a big team of friend and some of the best french climbers (Mickael Fuselier, Nina Caprez, Cedric Lachat, Florence Pinet, Gerome Pouvreau…) we all heeded out went to Red River Gorge the famous sandstone cliff in Kentucky before going to Argentina and participate in the Petzl Roc Trip. As you can all imagine we had a blast.
The place is amazing and really lives up to its reputation! The rock quality is just amazing and very fun to climb on. What I appreciated was the fact that there are so many different styles of climbing. Long rout very steep or vertical line with crimp.
The first days are little difficult and you need to be very humble to get use to this very physical and different style of climbing compared to what I'm used to from the area around Briançon with its particular style !!! But when you adapt it’s fantastic to climb on all the sectors. Its magic to be in the « mystic » woods.
RRG is a good spot for every one as there are many routes iRead More...
On 27th of January I did 4th ascent of superclassic Il Marattoneta (8b+) in Paklenica, Croatia. It is famous, historic line and one of those which name speaks thousand words. I saw it first time in 1997., 10 years after Maurizio Zanolla Manolo did his epic first ascent and in period when route still didnt have any repeats. It looked unreal good, just like today and I was impressed by Manolo’s vision of the line. Altough I was 15 year old boy and didnt know much about climbing, I was sure this is kind of routes I want to climb and search for.
In the following years I gave all energy to develop my climbing skills while Marattoneta saw first repeats by Slowenian aces Perko and Lukič. I took my chance to try it few times but couldn't offer much more than checking the moves.
Last year we met again and I felt I was ready to climb it but summer temperatures and humidity shut me down. This is why I decide to come back in clear and cold winter days, my favorite part of the year. The daRead More...
Finale Ligure is a beautiful place to climb, but the line is often very painful for the fingers and slightly overhanging. Here at last is a good news that is still waiting to be climbed!
A huge boulder fell eighty years ago from a quarry has remained incredibly poised offering a possible crossing boulder style, but his fifteen meters of development and the growing complexity require a great strength!
The line is called "U Beccu" in the local dialect means "beak", given the curious shape of the rock ..
We hope to resolve it soon!
I am with friends in Siruana at the moment for a short sport-climbing holiday. It’s probably the first sport-climbing trip in about 15 years and I have to say it’s been a huge amount of fun. Most of the friends I am with are of a similar age to myself and we all lead very different lifestyles to those we lived 15 or 20 years ago. The past few days have brought back many fond memories of past trips when younger and confirms why we all love climbing so much even whilst failing at it!
I’ve heard so much about Siruana over the years but have never had the pleasure of climbing here but it hasn’t disappointed. Quite a few people told me the style was old school and I would have to agree but for me this is definitely a positive. Most of the climbs vary from just off vertical to slightly overhanging and the style generally is fingery and quite technical. Yesterday we bumped in to the legendary Tony Arbones who put up many of the classic Siruana hard routes of the 80s and 90s and is Read More...
December climbing is kind of a love-hate-thing to me. At home it is freezing cold or the projekt is covered with snow, or it will be covered the next day. As the afternoonclimber that I am, the daylight allowes a maximum of four climbinghours and telling people about my minus-ten-degrees-afternoon-doing leaves usually a feeling of pitifulness and incomprehension. So in order to get a proper smalltalk about my afternoondoings running, I need to change something. I could pretend: I had some lonesome fourhourswalks in the snowcovered forest around my hometown, ...'you know, just to get closer to my chi or something'
Option number two was to act accordingly to the conditions and drive somewhere else to get some nice climbing done. Somewhere people will understand. Somewhere the finger stick to the rock and the evershining sun fill the hearts with warmth and the muscles with agility. (ok, ok, now it starts getting really cheese)
Before I sticked to option two, I had a beautyful climbingRead More...
For the first time in many years I have been at home for a summer. Usually I would prefer to be hanging out in cooler climes, such as Switzerland, Spain or England at this time of year. Mostly to climb on primo rock with my Northern Hemisphere peeps, but also to avoid the hideous heat that Australia is capable of producing at this time of year. For an example of this, I need only cast my mind back to yesterday when it was 40degrees. For anyone who hasn't experienced that kind of heat, it is brutal. Stinging sweat, plagues of flies and burn-in-five minutes sun rays. Not much to be achieved when it comes.
I rode up Mt William at 8am, a solid 10km hill climb, was home by 10.30 and then got in situ on the couch for the day. A waste of holidays really, but it's not all bad, there are a heap of days when the temperatures are not as high and some of the evenings are actually pretty good. Now I need to clarify this a little. When I say that it's good, I mean for route climbing. As you may knoRead More...