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Lead Climbing

Showing 17 to 24 of 56 posts

Progressing backwards?

  • 04.08.2013- by Ben Moon
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Not sure I have much to contribute with when it comes to hard sport climbing, in fact I think I have lees than zero to add as I'm such a mediocre climber. I'm outright lost in the world of pulling hard. Last year I spent an enormous amount of time redpointing an 8a+ and yes I'm happy I sent it but not overwhelmed with joy. After that ordeal I promised my self I would go for volume and not spend more than two or maximum three tries on any thing this year. How ever I have two routes in Tre Cime I like to pull off this summer and they both go free at 7c+ and 8a with multiple 7b to 7c pitches. So I figure I need to get some max power in me and not just stamina. Now this redpoint swampland is hard to get out of. When I start to invest time and effort in to a route its kind of becomes important to send it. How come? What is really the point of climbing half a grade up or down? EGO! Its all about ego I guess. For me the process of trying harder routes are actually both demotivating and depreRead More...

Back to the roots with Franko

  • 25.07.2013- by Sandra Bakulic
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Hi everybody! It ‘s been a four months since I gave birth to a small boy named Franko. Pregnancy was a real adventure but nothing compared to excitements of these days. Sure all parents know exactly what I am talking about :-) . Life has changed a lot but definitely for better and I truly enjoy it. First month after cesarean cut was pretty tough. Generally I was happy and proud but in physically aspect felt horrible. Though I tried to prepair the best I can for those post surgery effects I was pretty shocked with how weak I was. Still two weeks after surgery I could hardly endure a five minute walk around the block and it took me a while to accept this condition. The turning point in my recovery happened at the beginning of the May when I jumped into the sea for the first time. The water was still cold and I felt amazing blood rush through the whole body. This healing breath of life made me so alive again and probably this was the moment when I started to think about cliRead More...

RAMASURI

Ramasuri is a German word for excitement, chaos, confusion, tohubohu, mess, unrest, riot, jumble... All the sweet things we are a little scared about, but at the same time we need and adore as a counterdraft to the output-driven and comprehensive covered life we live. Ramasuri ist also the name of a legend 8c+ Loskot route that worked my mind and fingers

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Drilling Hunting Playing

During the winter month snow covered the austrian alps and makes them even more beautiful. In the morning hours my skis were launched almost every day. The evening hours I found myself in the surrounding gyms for some serious training or some other, not so serious, monkeying around. :) In the beginning of april my outsideseason starts with a nice eastertrip to cataluna spain, where I could climb the fivestarroute 'Paper Mullat' 8b+/c in oliana. The 45 meter of tufapumping took me three days. It was quite challenging, considering the sixmoveplasticbouldershizzle I was used to. Great time, great crew, great routes... cataluna is dope :) Back in Vienna I started bolting some new projekts I am currently working on. Nice steep and not so steep limestone in styria :). In between the rain I catched some good conditions for my propably hardest slapclimb to date: 'himmel ohne wolken' 8b (hard to great) the 20 meter slap affords a lot of rubber and nerves. Another nice 8a firstascent isRead More...

Pushing to the limit and beyond

  • 19.04.2013- by Ivan Lisica
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One more winter season is officialy closed. Spent it mainly on area Markezina greda - the homeland of great lines and hard climbing.

It was long time ago since I stopped couting days spent on project known as Prvomajski zajeb. Although in the beginning it felt nearly immposible, from the moment I fell in love with this line, there was no way back. I invested unlimited amount of time and energy into it and last autumn I started to feel significant progress. Finally I reach the level to give serious attempts and was very pleased about that.

(Photo above: In the lower section...)

 

Prvomajski zajeb is power-endurancRead More...

"U BECCU" 8c FA

  • 29.03.2013- by Matteo Gambaro
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March 27, 2013 In November 2012, one night in the gym friend Gian (Tesio), talking about where to go climbing, I noticing a line still to be climbed. I was looking at "boulder" that collapsed some 80 years ago. This route was bolted by Renato Delfino and Guido Cortese. Much to my surprise no one had climbed this majestic route. I decided to go and try, but thanks to the adverse weather I soon I forget the project and had surgery on my right shoulder . After the rehabilitation, I was quite surprised to progress quite fast on the route as I worked it. The route is beautiful! Its quite complex and physical climbing . Be safe as you clip the last bolt as you can hit the deck if you are not careful... (bring a crash pad!) After the first giuornate study of the way, I decided to stay for too cold heading toward another project Finale more winter and sunny .. but the first mild days and decided to try again on the first day (Thursday) coming close to climb up in a almost perfecRead More...

Red River Gorges

  • 10.03.2013- by Ben Moon
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Last autumn with a big team of friend and some of the best french climbers (Mickael Fuselier, Nina Caprez, Cedric Lachat, Florence Pinet, Gerome Pouvreau…) we all heeded out went to Red River Gorge the famous sandstone cliff in Kentucky before going to Argentina and participate in the Petzl Roc Trip. As you can all imagine we had a blast. The place is amazing and really lives up to its reputation! The rock quality is just amazing and very fun to climb on. What I appreciated was the fact that there are so many different styles of climbing. Long rout very steep or vertical line with crimp. The first days are little difficult and you need to be very humble to get use to this very physical and different style of climbing compared to what I'm used to from the area around Briançon with its particular style !!! But when you adapt it’s fantastic to climb on all the sectors. Its magic to be in the « mystic » woods. RRG is a good spot for every one as there are many routes iRead More...

Everlasting joy of climbing

  • 21.02.2013- by Ivan Lisica
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On 27th of January I did 4th ascent of superclassic  Il Marattoneta (8b+) in Paklenica, Croatia. It is famous, historic line and one of those which name speaks thousand words. I saw it first time in 1997., 10 years after Maurizio Zanolla Manolo did his epic first ascent and in period when route still didnt have any repeats. It looked unreal good, just like today and I was impressed by Manolo’s vision of the line. Altough I was 15 year old boy and didnt know much about climbing, I was sure this is kind of routes I want to climb and search for. In the following years I gave all energy to develop my climbing skills while Marattoneta saw first repeats by Slowenian aces Perko and Lukič. I took my chance to try it few times but couldn't offer much more than checking the moves. Last year we met again and I felt I was ready to climb it but summer temperatures and humidity shut me down. This is why I decide to come back in clear and cold winter days, my favorite part of the year. The daRead More...

Showing 17 to 24 of 56 posts