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Lead Climbing

Showing 25 to 32 of 52 posts

The Year That Passed - 2012

So the year passed by, just like that - or so it feels, now, afterwards, when I can do nothing about anything that happened but leaf through the memories and events in my mind.

 

To make what could have been a very long story very short I have chosen a few events just to summon up an outline of 2012 from my perspective. I have purposely chosen not to write (whine) about injuries, school and other depressing stuff even though I must admit that these has been kind of my own constant moan at times. One thing I will confirm, however, is that right now I have a stress fracture on my right shin-bone due to overtraining. Some scans revealed it a few weeks ago. And to make this a non-whining statement (like I just promised to save everyone from), I want to say that this will be over soon enough and that I can now fully climb agin. So no excuses.

Here are an outline of some of the main events with matching pictures from my 2012! Enjoy.

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And you can use a rope when you climb...

After nearly five years of no rope climbing (with a few exceptions) i've started again right before my Rocklands trip. Why now? Especially a few weeks before a bouldering trip? The answer is quite simple! I've got no idea what else to do and the amount of new hard routes is huge! After two days of struggeling with everything like pumped forarms and the fear of being half a meter above the bolts things worked better and better. I felt that my endurance came back and decided to try "Father And Son“, a 8c Route at the Trockauer Wand. The climb is something like 35 moves long, steep and for this area quite pumpy. Unfortunatelly the rock quality is not that good and it tends to soak most of the time. The route could be seperated in three parts. The +irst one is a 7c+ section with big moves on pinches and good holds which leads to a good rest. This is where you prepare for the hardest moves maybe a font 7c+. It's a traverse on tiny crimps with a reachy finish to the next rest. The rest Read More...

New Found Motivation For Climbing

I wrote the following Blog about 2 weeks ago but for some reason didn’t get around to publishing it but the very sad news today of the death of Patrick Edlinger at the age of 52 only confirmed what I had already been thinking. I am not a morbid person nor prone to morbid thoughts but it is a fact that we are not long on this earth and if we are not careful life can pass us by very quickly. I didn’t know Patrick well but met him on many occasions in the late 80s at competitions and on the crags in the south of France. He was passionate about his climbing, technically brilliant, elegant to watch and inspired a way of climbing that was adopted by many. His climbing achievements are second to none but more than this prove he understood the value of life and of how fortunate he was to have found something he felt so passionate about. Although most of us would love to have pushed the limits of climbing like Patrick ,at the end of the day it’s not how hard you climb that matters, but hoRead More...

My first 8a+ and the final hit in the Dolomites

Last fall, when I did the Swiss/Italian route on Cima Ovest leading every pitch ground up onsight, I knew it was only the beginning of something bigger. I knew I had to keep exploring the routes in Tre Cime. The idea of trying to do three big routes in the Dolomites started to form in my head. What was growing on me was a sense that I really wanted to try and push myself on the walls of Tre Cime and in the Dolomites. An evolving process I knew that the routes I wanted to do in Tre Cime were much more demanding both mentally and physically compared to the Swiss route. In order to pull them off I would need to devote much more time to training than I usually do to get stronger. Normally I spend all winter and spring ice climbing and alpine climbing but this winter and spring of 2012 I devoted to staying in shape on rock, doing some indoor climbing as well as benefitting from excellent conditions in St Leger in February and March. The goal to do the trilRead More...

10 Days on Mallorca

After being in Kalymnos last year we were looking for a new destination for our short summer trip of 2012 and stumbled across Mallorca. From a climbers perspective, the island is mostly known for it's great Deep Water Soloing (DWS) opportunities. Not such a commonly known thing is the great amount of top sport climbing crags it has to

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Rock,Rock and Rock again.

During these months I travelled a lot in France and Italy to meet new people but specially to climbing a lot on rock. I spent one week in Ailefroide doing some bouldering, for me this was a new place. I dedicated my time to explore it, climbing new lines and to test new rock. The conditions was not really good because the sun was hot but in the morning and the evening the possibilities to climb was better, because the temperatures were good. I Climbed some beautiful Boulders like: -La Fèe des tetines 7b+ -Cash 7b+ (Flash) -Tchao Philippe 7b+ (Flash) -Réconciliation 7b+ (2nd go) (it was graded 7c+ but in my opinion is easy).

-L’ènarque 7b (Hard)

  During those days I Read More...

Restless spirit

Combining bouldering and sports climbing allways works well in my case. Mixed a lot of these two in the last few months and really enjoyed it a lot. 20 days in the Alps sharpened my skills and reset my mind. Been for the first time in Silvretta, Tumpen, Zillertal and once again in Magic Wood. Did lots of problems, came close in many more, found projects for the future, had great time and one more – rock trip to remember! Some of the boulders I sent: Hydromancer (7C/8A), Fight club (7C), From darkness (jug) to sunshine (7C), Sideways (7C) ... Did kilometers of the best quality dalmatian limestone around Split. Still forced to climbing in shade but I am sure this will change soon. Autumn is just about to start. Love this part of year. My new MOON windstoper cant wait to hit conditions it is made for. Some latest FA's of mine: Simultanka (8a+), Suriken (8a+), Fatureta (7c+), Posljednji PRO (7c) ... All for now friends...   Wrestlling with HydromRead More...

4 weeks of my climbing life and Gorge du Tarn

In order of date this is what I have been up to since I did Donnafugata on Torre Trieste. After Donnafugata I was waisted for about 3 or 4 weeks, with no real energy to do any thing real hard plus it was warm. Then La Saume came in to play. Its a new crag at 2300 meters that is in the shade all day. I sent a few 7c and 7c+ up there all mega cool routes and I have worked on a 8a+. Well its a summer crag and this morning I got word that its been snowing 30 cm at 2700 meters in the area of La Saume.... Draws in! Might have to go with my Ice tools to get them back down? The picture below is from La Saume.

 

Gorge du Tarn is back in play! And its all about "ABUS Routes!"Read More...

Showing 25 to 32 of 52 posts