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Lead Climbing

Showing 25 to 32 of 50 posts

New Found Motivation For Climbing

I wrote the following Blog about 2 weeks ago but for some reason didn’t get around to publishing it but the very sad news today of the death of Patrick Edlinger at the age of 52 only confirmed what I had already been thinking. I am not a morbid person nor prone to morbid thoughts but it is a fact that we are not long on this earth and if we are not careful life can pass us by very quickly. I didn’t know Patrick well but met him on many occasions in the late 80s at competitions and on the crags in the south of France. He was passionate about his climbing, technically brilliant, elegant to watch and inspired a way of climbing that was adopted by many. His climbing achievements are second to none but more than this prove he understood the value of life and of how fortunate he was to have found something he felt so passionate about. Although most of us would love to have pushed the limits of climbing like Patrick ,at the end of the day it’s not how hard you climb that matters, but hoRead More...

My first 8a+ and the final hit in the Dolomites

Last fall, when I did the Swiss/Italian route on Cima Ovest leading every pitch ground up onsight, I knew it was only the beginning of something bigger. I knew I had to keep exploring the routes in Tre Cime. The idea of trying to do three big routes in the Dolomites started to form in my head. What was growing on me was a sense that I really wanted to try and push myself on the walls of Tre Cime and in the Dolomites. An evolving process I knew that the routes I wanted to do in Tre Cime were much more demanding both mentally and physically compared to the Swiss route. In order to pull them off I would need to devote much more time to training than I usually do to get stronger. Normally I spend all winter and spring ice climbing and alpine climbing but this winter and spring of 2012 I devoted to staying in shape on rock, doing some indoor climbing as well as benefitting from excellent conditions in St Leger in February and March. The goal to do the trilRead More...

10 Days on Mallorca

After being in Kalymnos last year we were looking for a new destination for our short summer trip of 2012 and stumbled across Mallorca. From a climbers perspective, the island is mostly known for it's great Deep Water Soloing (DWS) opportunities. Not such a commonly known thing is the great amount of top sport climbing crags it has to

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Rock,Rock and Rock again.

During these months I travelled a lot in France and Italy to meet new people but specially to climbing a lot on rock. I spent one week in Ailefroide doing some bouldering, for me this was a new place. I dedicated my time to explore it, climbing new lines and to test new rock. The conditions was not really good because the sun was hot but in the morning and the evening the possibilities to climb was better, because the temperatures were good. I Climbed some beautiful Boulders like: -La Fèe des tetines 7b+ -Cash 7b+ (Flash) -Tchao Philippe 7b+ (Flash) -Réconciliation 7b+ (2nd go) (it was graded 7c+ but in my opinion is easy).

-L’ènarque 7b (Hard)

  During those days I Read More...

Restless spirit

Combining bouldering and sports climbing allways works well in my case. Mixed a lot of these two in the last few months and really enjoyed it a lot. 20 days in the Alps sharpened my skills and reset my mind. Been for the first time in Silvretta, Tumpen, Zillertal and once again in Magic Wood. Did lots of problems, came close in many more, found projects for the future, had great time and one more – rock trip to remember! Some of the boulders I sent: Hydromancer (7C/8A), Fight club (7C), From darkness (jug) to sunshine (7C), Sideways (7C) ... Did kilometers of the best quality dalmatian limestone around Split. Still forced to climbing in shade but I am sure this will change soon. Autumn is just about to start. Love this part of year. My new MOON windstoper cant wait to hit conditions it is made for. Some latest FA's of mine: Simultanka (8a+), Suriken (8a+), Fatureta (7c+), Posljednji PRO (7c) ... All for now friends...   Wrestlling with HydromRead More...

4 weeks of my climbing life and Gorge du Tarn

In order of date this is what I have been up to since I did Donnafugata on Torre Trieste. After Donnafugata I was waisted for about 3 or 4 weeks, with no real energy to do any thing real hard plus it was warm. Then La Saume came in to play. Its a new crag at 2300 meters that is in the shade all day. I sent a few 7c and 7c+ up there all mega cool routes and I have worked on a 8a+. Well its a summer crag and this morning I got word that its been snowing 30 cm at 2700 meters in the area of La Saume.... Draws in! Might have to go with my Ice tools to get them back down? The picture below is from La Saume.

 

Gorge du Tarn is back in play! And its all about "ABUS Routes!"Read More...

The secrets of Cetina

Omiš is one of my favorite climbing areas through the warmer part of the year. This small town is situated in a place where river Cetina enters the Adriatic sea and is completly surrounded by limestone walls. Sounds perfect and it really is. This canyon is my massive inspiration and I feel creative rush every time I am there. Altough there is long climbing history in Omiš and many sport and classic MP routes, I am sure that some of the best sectors are still untouched. My opinion is that development of the areas was too often motivated by the approach parameters instead the quality of te rock. This is why Omiš still has so much potential. Only thing that makes me sad from time to time is the fact that there are just few other people who experience this area in the way I do. Definitelly would be great to feel team spirit more often but surely it wont change my motivation. Few years ago Dani Piccini and me started to develop first of those distant sectors – the mighty Perivoj Read More...

Summer hell

Summer in Split is really extreme. Heat is life threatening and in July was set a new all time record with 40 nights in a row with temperatures above 30 degrees Celsius. You dont want me to writte about how regular day looks like...  

  Well I know it is good to climb in bad conditions because it makes you a better person and your projects feel like piece of cake when good conditions arriwe but I decided to listen the voice inside me (rare situation to be honest) who adviced me to take the easy pace. So far, I was climbing mainly indoors for the last few months. Except I injured my left knee while doing some really deep heel sit-hook everything else went pretty fine. Although trainRead More...

Showing 25 to 32 of 50 posts