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Showing 1 to 8 of 487 posts

Mike Adams - The North York Moors -Two More From The Outskirts

  • 16.01.2012- by Ben Moon
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As winter approached and slowly set in, my excursions into the more central areas of North York Moors were stopped by wet, damp rock. Being tipped off about Roseberry Toppings temporarily saved me though. This is on the very outskirts of the Moors and is very exposed to wind. It therefore seems to suffer less from the rain and to dry very fast. The only draw back is that the rock is a bit softer than the good stuff higher up and so requires a careful approach. I was originally told that there were only six problems worth doing here; but as with so many of the venues when you look around, you find more, a lot more. I ended up enjoying two sessions here exploring, cleaning and climbing. I didn't climb anything that is earth shatteringly hard, but there are some great 7bish problems. By far the best is The Edge of Glory 7b+. Its an arete up on the end of the main cliff and is certainly a contender for the best of its grade in the area. It has great and unusual sloppy, slappy moves and is Read More...

Simon Weill New Year Bouldering in Spain

  • 16.01.2012- by Ben Moon
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It had to happen I suppose, but I wasn't prepared in any way to endure such poor weather. I had ridden through Sheffield on the back of my golden ticket for three previous visits. I don't think many people have had such a fine run with the weather, but it's over. Officially. Four hours of climbing outside from ten days. After training, eating, drinking, hanging out with amazing friends, I made a spur of the moment decision to depart to Spain. Why the hell didn't I think of it earlier? I love Spain. Good weather, great food, no people and new boulders. Ok, the South of Spain isn't exactly world famous for it's pristine bouldering, or pristine anything for that matter, but I had a trip to Switzerland to think of, and of course, free accommodation. Venga!!! Above: Simon on the 7c+ boulder at La Cabeza Gordo I had five days near MurcRead More...

Bernhard Fiedler ? Logbook Entry Dec 2011

  • 12.01.2012- by Ben Moon
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Eastern Europe was the place to be for restless climbers, looking for virgin rock territory. In November we were marooned on an 'Island' called Macadonia. A magical Landscape offers us plenty of unclimbed nuggeds made of 'buttermilklike' granite. We, a group of Austria’s finest  climbers including Mathias Woitzuck, Reini Fichtinger and 'the unknown big wave legend Dannyboy Kalser' were hiking, exploring, cleaning, climbing day by day, every day. The Potential of this Place was so huge, that it took us 3 days to even find the existing area, established by a handfull Macadonian climbers, who are by the way very friendly guys and really proud of their selfmade raki. I climbRead More...

Ed Hamer December Grit

  • 12.01.2012- by Ben Moon
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Over the last few days of December the weather has been great, which enabled me to get out with my friends and try and send some cool problems. First up was Robin Hoods Stride/ Cratcliffe. This was one of the first good days in the last month for outdoor climbing. The temperature was brilliant and the sky was blue. I managed to send some really cool problems such as The Kid V6 (flash), Dry Wit in a Wet Country V7 or E5 (solo), Grizzly Arete V7, Razor Roof Link V8, Hueco Wall – V7 and Ben’s Wall – V9 (flash). It was a great feeling to be climbing on real rock again. Above: Ed flashing Ben's Wall V9. Photo: Adam Bails Next up was Stanage. We all went to try the ‘Buckstone Dyno’ V8. After a few bad goes whilst trying to get warmed up, I suddenly managed to stick the top sloper. This is one of the coolesRead More...

Fabian Christof - Sniper 8c+

  • 10.01.2012- by Ben Moon
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For many years……… ….. I’ve tried a route that is called “Sniper”. It´s more or less a route! 12 moves, over six meters leading to the top. Though it´s only 12 moves long it requires a weird kind of endurance. Every single move is hard and there is no possibility to rest or even catch a breath, instead getting a green or blue face. The size of the holds (which is from the beginning not very big) become even smaller the higher you climb. Everything is needed. The very obvious thing you should bring along is a lot of finger strength especially on small incut crimps but finger strength is not the only skill! The first crux sequence involves a strenuous shoulder move for your right arm. You get a kind of a good shoulder crimp far above your head and now the feet must be moved on smears which enables you to cross with the left hand to the first small three finger incut crimp. Due to the fact that the distance between the holds is big, Sniper is also really powerful for theRead More...

Martin Keller - Enlightened

  • 10.01.2012- by Ben Moon
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When it gets dark at 4pm and you still want to climb outdoor s after work, you have to search for LIGHT! I used to boulder with the good old "gas-lanterns" but they do not omit much light and the "lightening-strumpf" inside tends to be always kaputt. Then there are "fuel-lanterns" which are brighter, but tall and heavy. So what is light, produces a lot of light and works for more then just one hour? I tried some LED-sticks, but their battery is down and I had to look for something new.

During night-bouldering I normally use a Petzl Myo as a headtorch. Its super bright and the light-angle is very wide (important when you don't want to "search" for your holds while climbing). That’s already nice, but if you need more light you need something additional. After some research my girlfriend Angela came up with the ultimate-tool!

Here a little test I did last week in Chironico:

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Mike Adams - Blakey Ridge, The North York Moors (part 3)

  • 21.12.2011- by Ben Moon
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The North York Moors - Part 1 is available here>>> The North York Moors - Part 2 is available here>>> This is really very much the central area for bouldering in the North York Moors. It's a bit like a less concentrated version on the Burbage Valley, only being a ridge instead of a valley, but still with lots of different areas all around the outskirts. It is one of the latter parts of the Moors that I ended up exploring and funnily enough, it probably turned out to have the better bouldering. First of all I'll mention Clemmitts in the Woods. This place has a unique atmosphere to it, having it's own special character. I decided to start here as local climbers had already extensively developed it. I thinkRead More...

Katja Vidmar Petting with an Alligator 8A+

  • 19.12.2011- by Ben Moon
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My first really long-term project is done. It's been quite journey.

I first tried it in the spring of 2010 and I kind of believed that I could do this thing one day. But it wasn't until a few weeks ago when I knew that it was just a matter of time. Luckily there was no snow in Maltatal yesterday so it was possible to top out this huge bloc.

The story begins in spring 2010 when I first tried it. But it felt hard on my fingers so I didn't try it again until fall that year. That's when I first did all the moves. I remember I was pretty psyched but I didn't realize that this is just the beginning. The crux is to put it all together. It's a pretty long climb with 12 moves to the jug. For me it was the hardest to move my feet twice. I was pretty confident that I could do it then but if I think about it now I was still so far away. Next time I tried it was this spring (2011). I think that was when I first did all the foot transitions but I didn't feel that I could juRead More...

Showing 1 to 8 of 487 posts