I have just spent the last 10 days in Slovenia with my good friend Luke Tilley. We both arrived on the 17th into Ljubljana and competed in the Senior World Cup at Kranj that weekend! It was my first senior competition and I finished 4 places out of the semi-finals, which was a cool way to start with the seniors. I now know that it is possible to get some good results for the GB climbing team.
Above: Franz about to have a red-point on Missing Link 8b+
After competing on Saturday, we then had an amazing day trip at Misja Pec. We met up with Gasper who is a good friend from the Slovenian climbing team who gave us a lift. I started the day by warming up on a tricky 7b+ Hugolina, and then climbed a cool 8a+ 2nd try called Sonce v Oceh. I finished the day by sending Marjetica 8b+ 2nd go, which was really cool. We all then [...] Read More...
I have been training hard in order to be strong at Christmas, when I will try a couple of projects, but I climb outside when I have some spare time, frequently after university with head torches.
Recently, I have done some good problems around Madrid: I flashed "Uandrea" (8A) in Hoya Moros, made the first ascents of "El Techo de Javi" (8A) and "40º" (8A+/B) in La Pedriza, the second ascent of "Soyuz" (8B+) in Zarzalejo, and "El Monstruo de las Regletas" (8B), a classic problem in El Escorial. I used a different beta for this one, I think it is more complex but less random.
November meant it well with the climbers. A stable high-pressure weather gave us dry boulders and thereby joy. After a long absence from rock, with the exception of a trip to paradise (Fontainebleau), the real season began. As I study in Innsbruck the Zillertal offers a good opportunity for climbing and thanks to my motivated friends I didn't have to wait long.
Above: Juri climbing Buring Knee 7c+
Most of the time my friend Martin came with me to check out some of the crags. One of them is “Klausen Alm” where I did some classics such as “Will to Live“ 7b/c, “Burning Knee” 7c+ and an exhibit of the ‘always wet problems’ in the valley “Der Narzisst” 8a. Fortunately we both ticked these problems kind of fast and could dedicate ourselves to [...] Read More...
The past Sunday (27th November) I made a second ascent of Intensive 8A in Črnotiče, (FA Boštjan Weingerl). I didn't really expect it to happen. It all started in Maltatal, Austria the day before. I changed my beta in my project Petting with an Alligator and came close to sending it which gave me a confidence that I can really do it now.
The next day we went to Črnotiče cave to get some sun after the cold day in Maltatal. It’s our local spot. Like a training gym with endless possibilities of linking things together. All the problems are pretty long in a big overhang. It’s good for training and some lines and moves are pretty awesome. The only thing that is missing are top outs. All the problems end on some obvious jug and then you drop off. That’s too bad but the climbing there is good once you get used to it. Actually, I hated that place at first. I found everything super hard and strange. But this year we spent more days [...] Read More...
My last blogspot was about the summer bouldering and now I’m writing here to say something about my last period of climbing. Finally, the autumn has come! The trees are multicolor and the temperatures for training and climbing are right now.
My crew and I live two hours by car from Ticino (CH), and we are super psyched because this season is perfect to climb there. My tick list of projects to do is a bit long, as every year the problems that I would try are many among Chironico and Brione. I’m also waiting for the winter to go to Cresciano to climb some lines that I saw last year.
Above: Niccolò on General Disarray 8B
The Swiss season started very early for me, the motivation was high and at the end of September we went to Brione though the weather was still hot and humid. Outside the [...] Read More...
The last month or two we had great weather conditions in Split and climbing life was really intense. Before “changing clock thing” I was climbing a lot in small area called Rupotine, which is close to the city and offers some top quality climbing on slightly overhanging 20m routes. I would head there straight from work and try to climb as much as possible in short 2 hour sessions. This was pretty exhausting rhythm but I knew that when the short days start, I will only climb outside on weekends.
Above: Sandra on Mućke (8a) at Rupotine
I manage to climb two beautiful top classic lines: Mućke (8a) and Let3 (7c+), both captured in new video Rupotine session! Hope you will like it!
I am again in plastic rhythm now, trying to balance between regular questions like – burn [...] Read More...
Wow, the first six weeks of work felt like one day, and before I could realize it my first vacations as a teacher are there.
Just one single plan: Let´s go to Tecino! Like every year again I have the wish to climb one of these proud and beautiful problems aka Vecchio Leone and General Disarray. After too many years of disbelief and refusing the facts, I accepted it! These both problems don´t fit me at all and I got every level of emotional feelings the days I’ve been trying and trying. Now I know that it´s not a matter of power! The crux must be something that is much deeper than only not enough power!
Above: Fabian Christof dispatching One Summer in Paradise, Font 8B.
Ah, what I am talking about? Let me speak about the things that happened during the four days [...] Read More...
During the last few months I did the last projects I had in mind! Before the cold season started, in fact I decided to do a short trip to the sea to spend the last days of holiday with friends and to do sport climbing before we started again the competition period.
Me and my brother and other friends left to go Liguria even if the weather conditions were not very favorable for climbing (20 degrees) but we managed to find a crag completely in the shade and quite windy so we spent two days there. The crag is nice, but unfortunately a lot of routes are quite chipped. I immediately decided to try a short and intense 8a called Elephant Man, I wanted to try it flash, and I got some advice from a friend who had already tried it, I then climbed very well the first part but I fell at the last hard move. I did it second go!
Next day I decided to try an 8a/+ called Stone at the same crag. It looked pretty nice, being very long and steep, and there is also a not easy [...] Read More...