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Old website blog

Showing 17 to 24 of 487 posts

Nacho Sanchez Autumn in Madrid

  • 05.12.2011- by Ben Moon
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I have been training hard in order to be strong at Christmas, when I will try a couple of projects, but I climb outside when I have some spare time, frequently after university with head torches.

Recently, I have done some good problems around Madrid: I flashed "Uandrea" (8A) in Hoya

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Juri Chiaramonte - Sweet Zillertal November

  • 05.12.2011- by Ben Moon
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November meant it well with the climbers. A stable high-pressure weather gave us dry boulders and thereby joy. After a long absence from rock, with the exception of a trip to paradise (Fontainebleau), the real season began. As I study in Innsbruck the Zillertal offers a good opportunity for climbing and thanks to my motivated friends I didn't have to wait long.

Above: Juri climbing Buring Knee 7c+

Most of the time my friend Martin came with me to check out some of the crags. One of them is “Klausen Alm” where I did some classics such as “Will to Live“ 7b/c,  “Burning Knee” 7c+ and an exhibit of the ‘always wet problems’ in the valley “Der Narzisst” 8a. Fortunately we both ticked these problems kind of fast and could dedicate ourselves to diffeRead More...

Katja Vidmar - gets Intensive

  • 05.12.2011- by Ben Moon
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The past Sunday (27th November) I made a second ascent of Intensive 8A in Črnotiče, (FA Boštjan Weingerl). I didn't really expect it to happen. It all started in Maltatal, Austria the day before. I changed my beta in my project Petting with an Alligator and came close to sending it which gave me a confidence that I can really do it now.

The next day we went to Črnotiče cave to get some sun after the cold day in Maltatal. It’s our local spot. Like a training gym with endless possibilities of linking things together. All the problems are pretty long in a big overhang. It’s good for training and some lines and moves are pretty awesome. The only thing that is missing are top outs. All the problems end on some obvious jug and then you drop off. That’s too bad but the climbing there is good once you get used to it. Actually, I hated that place at first. I found everything super hard and strange. But this year we spent more days thereRead More...

Niccol Ceria - Crushing in Brione

  • 01.12.2011- by Ben Moon
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My last blogspot was about the summer bouldering and now I’m writing here to say something about my last period of climbing. Finally, the autumn has come! The trees are multicolor and the temperatures for training and climbing are right now.

My crew and I live two hours by car from Ticino (CH), and we are super psyched because this season is perfect to climb there. My tick list of projects to do is a bit long, as every year the problems that I would try are many among Chironico and Brione. I’m also waiting for the winter to go to Cresciano to climb some lines that I saw last year.

Above: Niccolò on General Disarray 8B

The Swiss season started very early for me, the motivation was high and at the end of September we went to Brione though the weather was still hot and humid. Outside thRead More...

Sandra Lisica Love This Game

  • 01.12.2011- by Ben Moon
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The last month or two we had great weather conditions in Split and climbing life was really intense. Before “changing clock thing” I was climbing a lot in small area called Rupotine, which is close to the city and offers some top quality climbing on slightly overhanging 20m routes. I would head there straight from work and try to climb as much as possible in short 2 hour sessions. This was pretty exhausting rhythm but I knew that when the short days start, I will only climb outside on weekends.  

Above: Sandra on Mućke (8a) at Rupotine

I manage to climb two beautiful top classic lines: Mućke (8a) and Let3 (7c+), both captured in new video Rupotine session! Hope you will like it!

I am again in plastic rhythm now, trying to balance between regular questions like – burRead More...

Fabian Christof - First Vacations

  • 01.12.2011- by Ben Moon
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Wow, the first six weeks of work felt like one day, and before I could realize it my first vacations as a teacher are there.

Just one single plan: Let´s go to Tecino! Like every year again I have the wish to climb one of these proud and beautiful problems aka Vecchio Leone and General Disarray. After too many years of disbelief and refusing the facts, I accepted it! These both problems don´t fit me at all and I got every level of emotional feelings the days I’ve been trying and trying. Now I know that it´s not a matter of power! The crux must be something that is much deeper than only not enough power!

Above: Fabian Christof dispatching One Summer in Paradise, Font 8B.

 Ah, what I am talking about? Let me speak about the things that happened during the four days stay.

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Andrea Zanone Bouldering, Routes and Comps Update

  • 01.12.2011- by Ben Moon
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During the last few months I did the last projects I had in mind! Before the cold season started, in fact I decided to do a short trip to the sea to spend the last days of holiday with friends and to do sport climbing before we started again the competition period.

Me and my brother and other friends left to go Liguria even if the weather conditions were not very favorable for climbing (20 degrees) but we managed to find a crag completely in the shade and quite windy so we spent two days there. The crag is nice, but unfortunately a lot of routes are quite chipped. I immediately decided to try a short and intense 8a called Elephant Man, I wanted to try it flash, and I got some advice from a friend who had already tried it, I then climbed very well the first part but I fell at the last hard move. I did it second go!

Next day I decided to try an 8a/+ called Stone at the same crag. It looked pretty nice, being very long and steep, and there is also a not easy slab Read More...

Emanuel Moosburger - The (Love 2.0) Story

  • 28.11.2011- by Ben Moon
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Love 2.0 is a sport route located in the Zillertal Valley in Austria. It's background isn't the typical "found line-bolted-it-climbed it" one, it has a different story to tell...

In the mid 80's of the past century, Gerhard Hörhager, Austrian sport climbing pioneer and living legend, bolted a line going through the middle of the north face of the "Wächter" bloc at a crag called Ewige Jagdgründe. As the wall was totally blank he drilled some holds, which was a common thing to do back then, and climbed the route, calling it "Hounts of Love", 8a.

Years later in 2007 he returned to take out the bolts and close the holds with sika because he saw the potential for a natural line starting further left. New bolts were set, Kilian Fischhuber was called up to the set and he soon after did the FA of the new all natural climb, they called it "Love 2.0" and it's grade is 8c.

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Showing 17 to 24 of 487 posts