North East climber and photographer Mark Savage recently sent me a photo of the damage done to the classic Bowden problem Vienna. The damage is obviously due to its popularity and Vienna is certainly not unique in this respect. There will be classic problems all over the country which are sadly changing for the worst.
One of the causes of this damage is from excessive brushing to remove excess chalk so as to improve the grip between fingers and rock. We all do it and it’s almost become a ritual, part of the mental process of preparing for a hard send. However it’s worth questioning how effective this process is, is it worth the damage it causes and are there better alternatives for improving the friction and therefore your chances of success?
I have done plenty of brushing in my time and my company even sells brushes but in most cases I don’t actually believe it does help to improve the friction. The only cases where it might help are where the hold obviously hasn’t beeRead More...
So the year passed by, just like that - or so it feels, now, afterwards, when I can do nothing about anything that happened but leaf through the memories and events in my mind.
To make what could have been a very long story very short I have chosen a few events just to summon up an outline of 2012 from my perspective. I have purposely chosen not to write (whine) about injuries, school and other depressing stuff even though I must admit that these has been kind of my own constant moan at times. One thing I will confirm, however, is that right now I have a stress fracture on my right shin-bone due to overtraining. Some scans revealed it a few weeks ago. And to make this a non-whining statement (like I just promised to save everyone from), I want to say that this will be over soon enough and that I can now fully climb agin. So no excuses.
Here are an outline of some of the main events with matching pictures from my 2012! Enjoy.
Hi folks! I have small news for mankind and big news for me and my family – I am pregnant! Well, it aint since yesterday, just going through 6th month now and my belly clearly shows whats going on. Feeling really happy and excited about this change in my life although I was a bit confused at the beginning. We were just packing stuff for summer boulder tour when I found out the big news. For a moment we thought about cancelling our rock trip but quickly came to conclusion that 20 days in the Alps will be nice chance to isolate in nature, consolidate my mind and accept new situation.
Also I got really nice book about pregnancy from good friend of mine so I had chance to learn practical stuff about this new world I have suddenly entered. First few risky months were kind of stressfull but since than I started to feel much better physicaly and mentally. Right now I am in some flow state of mind, everything goes according the plan and hope it will keep this way till the end of the journRead More...
In order of date this is what I have been up to since I did Donnafugata on Torre Trieste. After Donnafugata I was waisted for about 3 or 4 weeks, with no real energy to do any thing real hard plus it was warm. Then La Saume came in to play. Its a new crag at 2300 meters that is in the shade all day. I sent a few 7c and 7c+ up there all mega cool routes and I have worked on a 8a+. Well its a summer crag and this morning I got word that its been snowing 30 cm at 2700 meters in the area of La Saume.... Draws in! Might have to go with my Ice tools to get them back down? The picture below is from La Saume.
Gorge du Tarn is back in play! And its all about "ABUS Routes!"Read More...
Omiš is one of my favorite climbing areas through the warmer part of the year. This small town is situated in a place where river Cetina enters the Adriatic sea and is completly surrounded by limestone walls. Sounds perfect and it really is.
This canyon is my massive inspiration and I feel creative rush every time I am there. Altough there is long climbing history in Omiš and many sport and classic MP routes, I am sure that some of the best sectors are still untouched. My opinion is that development of the areas was too often motivated by the approach parameters instead the quality of te rock. This is why Omiš still has so much potential. Only thing that makes me sad from time to time is the fact that there are just few other people who experience this area in the way I do. Definitelly would be great to feel team spirit more often but surely it wont change my motivation.
Few years ago Dani Piccini and me started to develop first of those distant sectors – the mighty Perivoj Read More...
Its been some times since I last posted any thing on the blog. Not that there is a lack of topics worthy a comment. And I'm not just thinking of the pathetic Everest season in full swing... Plenty of other stuff in the savvy world of climbing conflicts deserve further thoughts. But I have been busy climbing and training so I will defer from spraying out my well known thoughts on the various topics.
I spent about 10 days in Kalymnos and I have to say it was fun in a strange way. I have never visited a climbing tourist spot like that before with all that comes with the territory.
I had huge expectations and to some extent they where met. The Grande Grotta and Panorama was truly stunning with exceptionally good climbing. Some other sectors where a huge let down. I saved the Sikati Cave for next trip. So I will go back not only to do some of the routes in the Grande Grotta and on Panorama I did not do but also to go and try out the Sikati Cave. I had a fairly productive session and dRead More...
The Moon Board concept allows climbers who own or have access to a Moon Board to train on the same problems as other climbers from around the world. This concept was designed and developed by Moon Climbing and is unique to Moon Climbing. The concept is designed to link together climbers from around the world and build a unique training community, in a way a social networking site for climbers!
It's been a long time coming but we've finally got the two new compatible set ups for the Moon Board courtesy of Lucas Dourdourekas. Lucas is one of Greece's top climbers and lives in Kalymnos where he owns a climbing gym, so next time you are in Kalymnos and it's raining drop in and say hello! Lucas joined the Moon Climbing team at the back end of last year.
The new compatible set ups use the two newer sets, School Room Training sets A and B. If you have set A then you have access to 17 new problems from around Font 6a+ to 8a+, if you have set B then you have access to 25 new problems from 6a Read More...
Text by David Falt
Some significant events have taken place lately. The american wonder girl Sasha Digulian sent her second 9a by repeating Chris Sharma's Era Vella, 9a in Margalef after six days of work. This is a stunning performance by any standards.
Swedish Matilda Söderlund went to Spain on an virtual onsight rampage earning her headlines in a number of climbing magazines for her three 8b onsights and up on returning the other day she flashed a 8b+.
MOON Climber Martin Keller sent his project "Der Mit den Fels Tanzt" fro witch Martin proposed 8C. Martin spent more that 100 days working the project. We at MOON Climbing are super happy for you Martin and we hope this send will inspire you to try new "impossible" project and turn them around and send them.
In the category of stubborn super achievements we have to mention Catalan female climber Silvia Vidal's new route, Espiadimonis (6b, A4, IV+ 1500m) onRead More...